I'm in the process of rebuilding my 82/83 RX7 12A engine and I am down to the fly wheel and having a heck of a time taking it off. any suggestions? Also, I'm trying to find a set of rotor seals ect.. for the above job.
I started the job because of 0 compression in the engine
and when trying to start all I got was a whirring noise instead of combustion. Replaced the starter, no luck. Replaced the coil, no luck. Tried roll starting it and got a sickly white smoke but nothing else. Anyway I've tried using a puller but am making no progress.

 

Get a good wooden mallet and wedge a long narrowing punch between the engine and flywheel and knock it off!

For getting seals, ahhhh....Mazda, mazdatrix, etc, etc....

 

Thanks, I started using a crowbar earler but wasn't sure how vigorous to get with it. It looked like a good spot for prying but this technique is not specified in the "book"

 

You removed the big *** nut correct?

Ok take that puller you got there and place it on the work bench behind you.. Thread the flywheel nut on about 5 threads, so you dont loose a toe or 2 when it does pop off.

Now, get a small box hammer and tap the flywheel from the backside hit it hard, now turn flywheel 1/8 turn, repeat w/hammer, turn flywheel 1/8 turn , and whack it again, it should come right off... I broke 2 pullers trying this, and a hammer knocks it right off You aint gonna hurt it, so dont worry about it

Now on seals, www.revolutionrotary.com cheaper than anybody, if they EVER return your email. You best off calling them and then they are pretty damn fast

 

Ok, this may sound stupid but um which nuts. Just to make sure ya know. Ah, just saw your edit. Yes the big *** nut on the front is off.

 

Yeah sorry about that, I seen I wrote nuts I meant nut!

Just whack that sucker hard from the back, it'll pop off

 

Don't try the crowbar. If you can't easily pull it off with a piece of wood, then you're going to have to heat it up with a torch. Trust me - you would do more damage to it with a crowbar. Get it really hot and then use the puller.

 

Wouldn't a torch hurt the integrity of the metal??

I have done this for quite a while and I have to say that my 3 foot prybar does the best job. I have used several pullers and broke 2 of them. A friend showed me the prybar trick and I was shocked. It looked so brutal but the flywheel came off with ease. He stuck it behind the flywheel poped it once on on side and on the other it came off. Simply amazing...

 

I am having the same problem with my 82 12a. I just put a new engine in and and trying to tear down the old one so I can learn about the engine. I all ready know how it works but I want to tear it apart and put it back together. Anyway I dont have a socket big enough to get that fly wheel nut off. I cut the hell out of my hand the other day on the fly wheel trying to get that bitch off.

And hey how do you get that big nut off. Is there a special tool. I was looking in my manual and saw that they used a puller. I have never taken apart an engine so thats why I am asking. Do I need to buy a certain tool for the job. If so where.

Brad

 

take it to a mechanic... i tried absolutly everything, he brought out a big air tool and it took him all of 10 seconds... you'll be saving yourself alot of hassle (for reference, a 2 1/8" socket works really nicely for the back bolt.

cheers'

 

I agree with 4ohfour, as I used this method myself - worked very well.

jbontke - That's great that it worked for you - I wish I had the same luck. Yes, it is true that heating the metal will potentially weaken it, but not that badly. The most noticeable effect will be that the heated part may start to rust quickly - but then again, you could just paint the flywheel. Mine was REALLY REALLY stuck on, so I think using a crowbar would only break something.

 

Ok, I got the fly wheel off. First I tried tapping with a hammer but I ended up putting a few small dents in the fly wheel and I'm hoping to heck this will not cause trouble down the line No fault to anyone but myself I was really wanting that thing off. Then I used a seperator (kind of a long wedge shaped tuning fork) and she just popped right off. To get the big *** nut off I went to the agri-supply and purchased a 2 1/8 inch socket and a two foot long 3/4 inch breaker bar and lightly tapped the big nut off but, I had to brace the flywheel with a long rod butted up to the bolt holding the lift ring. Actually I had more problems with the little nut on the other side.
But, thanks to everyones suggetstions .
Now will a few dents in the flywheel cause it to vacate at a crittical time?
Also a few questions to the numerous experts available.
First is their a better manual available. The one I have failed to mention a key in the shaft at the flywheel side that has to be removed before the front cover can come off.
Second, can a person repair a metering oil pump, or can you test it to see if it is working, or do you just buy a new one.
Third, I origannally thought that the oil pump went out but after looking at it it doesn't look like the kind of oil pump that would have problems, has any one else blown their oil pump on a 12a engine.
Finally, any other surprises I should look forward to whilst in the process of changing the seals and all.

Thanks again all

 

I reccomend every first time rebuilder get the rebuild video from atikins rotary, that thing tells you everything, including how to get the flywheel off.