.8 sq mm fusible link...plus what the heck is a fusible link anyway?
#1
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.8 sq mm fusible link...plus what the heck is a fusible link anyway?
hi
i went the madza dealer yesterday and told him i needed a fusible link for my 85 rx7 for my headlights they wont retact.
he returns with a green piece of wire about 8 inches long that says 0.8sq MM fusible link on it .
he says this should fix it.... i ask him how much he said nothing ..... which was cool..
but is this even going to work? is the amperage high enough?
plus do i need to just crimp the wires into female spades or do i need to solder them in.
i have been doing searches about this size fusible link to see what the amps are but havent found anything
plus what is a fusilbe link anyway?
i realize its like a fuse but like a buzz fuse you tell if its blown. i checked for my fusible links for continuity like my manual says and it showed it was fine but according to some searches this may not always be true.
any help would be appreciated
thanks
Don
i went the madza dealer yesterday and told him i needed a fusible link for my 85 rx7 for my headlights they wont retact.
he returns with a green piece of wire about 8 inches long that says 0.8sq MM fusible link on it .
he says this should fix it.... i ask him how much he said nothing ..... which was cool..
but is this even going to work? is the amperage high enough?
plus do i need to just crimp the wires into female spades or do i need to solder them in.
i have been doing searches about this size fusible link to see what the amps are but havent found anything
plus what is a fusilbe link anyway?
i realize its like a fuse but like a buzz fuse you tell if its blown. i checked for my fusible links for continuity like my manual says and it showed it was fine but according to some searches this may not always be true.
any help would be appreciated
thanks
Don
#3
Seven Is Coming
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My factory service manual says its supposed to be a 0.3 sq wire, brown in color. Now, they may have updated them and changed the color, or maybe its a greenish brown? Maybe the letters on the side are hard to read and it really is a 0.3 and not a 0.8? I know lettering on wires is sometimes hard to read...
Either way, it will technically work. The other option is a 1.25 sq which is black if you have a 12A. A 13B -SE still wouldnt have anything thats 0.8, they have one thats 0.5 however. Anyway, it sounds like you have something that will work for you.
What I would personally do is cut it to length since you have 8", that would make at least two! Then, solder/crimp spade terminals on the ends to re-produce the same thing thats in the block now. Then, simply plug and play!
Im sure that it will work just fine for you! The fact that its a little bigger just means that it would take more current to "blow" it, but it will still blow just as well as the smaller one if theres a short in the system. I would assume that the difference cant be much, so I wouldnt worry too much about it.
~T.J.
Either way, it will technically work. The other option is a 1.25 sq which is black if you have a 12A. A 13B -SE still wouldnt have anything thats 0.8, they have one thats 0.5 however. Anyway, it sounds like you have something that will work for you.
What I would personally do is cut it to length since you have 8", that would make at least two! Then, solder/crimp spade terminals on the ends to re-produce the same thing thats in the block now. Then, simply plug and play!
Im sure that it will work just fine for you! The fact that its a little bigger just means that it would take more current to "blow" it, but it will still blow just as well as the smaller one if theres a short in the system. I would assume that the difference cant be much, so I wouldnt worry too much about it.
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 12-04-04 at 01:38 PM.
#7
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If your meter shows continuity then the problem is corrosion on the connections. Remove the fusible link, clean the contacts on the link and fuse block and replace.
When a fusible link blows the wire breaks. For this you remove the cloth insulator on the link and twist the two ends together. (Fix the problem first though)
When a fusible link blows the wire breaks. For this you remove the cloth insulator on the link and twist the two ends together. (Fix the problem first though)
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#8
Mmmm Cheeze....
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Well, in the dark w/o a flashlight, I hooked up my battery backwards. Opps. It actually burnt the link completely up before I disconnected it (kinda cool it glowed bright orange in the dark).
#9
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Check out my post here.. the fusible link wire is old technology.. These are much safer.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=fuse+amp
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=fuse+amp
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They are fixed i'm sooooooooooooo frigging happy .... its a good feeling when things go right. At least it is for me.
i am going to see if i can buy some of them plugs somewhere like the partsguy74 suggested
special thanks to TJ and everyone else that helped
Don
i am going to see if i can buy some of them plugs somewhere like the partsguy74 suggested
special thanks to TJ and everyone else that helped
Don
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=fuse+amp
All is answerred here. Parts are availiable at any auto zone, advance auto, or O'Reily's. There's a wide range of prices($4-$8) for the same fuse
All is answerred here. Parts are availiable at any auto zone, advance auto, or O'Reily's. There's a wide range of prices($4-$8) for the same fuse
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