79 GS Clock - minor annoyance
#1
79 Red
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79 GS Clock - minor annoyance
1) Very very minor annoyance......In my near mint 79 GS, all is well except the clock doesn't work. I've searched the archive section and found prior posts that say those clocks never go bad - just change the fuse. Page 7-20 of my archived owner's manual makes no mention of fuse for the clock , plus all other electrical / lighting, etc on the car works fine. Any other ideas w/o pulling gauge cluster?
2) I have a few spare 79 gauge clusters with clocks still in them. How would I go about checking the clocks in those ?
All info/help is appreciated -
2) I have a few spare 79 gauge clusters with clocks still in them. How would I go about checking the clocks in those ?
All info/help is appreciated -
#2
Eff Dee Three Ess
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My FB's clock was messed up inside, bad solder point. swapping the clock is very easy. should take like 10 minutes total.
I might be missing something in this list but IIRC, this is what you need to do.
-pop off shifter plate. (you don't need to take it right off)
-pull out your ashtray.
-take out 2 screws at base of the vertical stereo surround. (the part that the clock is in)
-take off the fan speed and heat control ***** and remove the 2 nuts that are under them.
-carefully pop out the center dash section.
-remove the wires that are connected to the heater control.
-remove 2 screws holding clock in place and swap.
I might be missing something in this list but IIRC, this is what you need to do.
-pop off shifter plate. (you don't need to take it right off)
-pull out your ashtray.
-take out 2 screws at base of the vertical stereo surround. (the part that the clock is in)
-take off the fan speed and heat control ***** and remove the 2 nuts that are under them.
-carefully pop out the center dash section.
-remove the wires that are connected to the heater control.
-remove 2 screws holding clock in place and swap.
#3
Eff Dee Three Ess
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Wait I'm an idiot, this is a 79, so the clock isn't in the center... Sorry bout that.
I don't know much about that, I'd say you'd have to swap them. Or just ignore it, most of us have cell phones or watches to tell time with now anyway.
but if you wanted to test them, I'm pretty sure the clock gets continuous power from the battery and therefore has it's own +12v circuit.
I don't know much about that, I'd say you'd have to swap them. Or just ignore it, most of us have cell phones or watches to tell time with now anyway.
but if you wanted to test them, I'm pretty sure the clock gets continuous power from the battery and therefore has it's own +12v circuit.
#4
RX HVN
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Ron - just swap in a spare clock - very easy to do
To remove cluster: Tools: l-o-o-ong phillips!!! (like 8"+)
-detach speedo cable: reach up behind cluster (I lay on the seat head down), feel cable, run hand to joint at back of speedo - cable has a squeeze-clip, squeeze and it will disconnect
-remove plastic surround on cluster face: 2 screws under top edge, bottom held in ea corner by a press-in clip (photo) - you need to work up the nerve to pull at lower corners knowing you won't break the surround
-remove similar screws holding upper rim of cluster to dash, this is front-upper
-finally 2 screws are at REAR of housing (see photo), facing downward - here is where you need the long phillips to reach up under dash to get these.
-finally you can work the cluster out thru the front far enough to disconnect the 2 harness plugs.
To get clock out, remove rear circuit board to access clock mount - very easy to do - practice on spare cluster first. You'll see the various mount points I've described too.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
To remove cluster: Tools: l-o-o-ong phillips!!! (like 8"+)
-detach speedo cable: reach up behind cluster (I lay on the seat head down), feel cable, run hand to joint at back of speedo - cable has a squeeze-clip, squeeze and it will disconnect
-remove plastic surround on cluster face: 2 screws under top edge, bottom held in ea corner by a press-in clip (photo) - you need to work up the nerve to pull at lower corners knowing you won't break the surround
-remove similar screws holding upper rim of cluster to dash, this is front-upper
-finally 2 screws are at REAR of housing (see photo), facing downward - here is where you need the long phillips to reach up under dash to get these.
-finally you can work the cluster out thru the front far enough to disconnect the 2 harness plugs.
To get clock out, remove rear circuit board to access clock mount - very easy to do - practice on spare cluster first. You'll see the various mount points I've described too.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#5
79 Red
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Stu -
Your description and pics are most helpfull - I'll print them out and have at it.
FYI, we have twins (although my car has black with polished rims WEDS wheels).
Many thanks -
Ron
Your description and pics are most helpfull - I'll print them out and have at it.
FYI, we have twins (although my car has black with polished rims WEDS wheels).
Many thanks -
Ron
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#8
RX HVN
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You can, but easier if you puller the wheel - which is a snap:
1) disconnect battery (or horn will drive you nuts, maybe blow a fuse)
2)make sure wheel set for dead-ahead
3) peel off center horn cap
4) use...22mm? or you LUG WRENCH to remove single shaft bolt
5) grab wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and alternate pull-push on each side to walk wheel off shaft.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
1) disconnect battery (or horn will drive you nuts, maybe blow a fuse)
2)make sure wheel set for dead-ahead
3) peel off center horn cap
4) use...22mm? or you LUG WRENCH to remove single shaft bolt
5) grab wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and alternate pull-push on each side to walk wheel off shaft.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#12
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Let me know Stu. Been an FD owner for years, but picked up my first SA. Low mileage, early 79 car with plaid interior, all original. She's on her way to me right now. Should arrive on Monday. I'm very excited. One thing the seller told me was that the clock does not work, so I'm just searching for solutions before the car arrives! I'll start a thread once I get her early next week!
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