48 IDA help 3k rpm cut
08-01-09, 01:41 PM
#26
ohh my...
I ran a 14.2 when I was making 140whp. i haven't completed a run at the drag strip since... last time I went the output shaft broke on the first run. that was about a year ago and the time I went drag racing before that was 2001 maybe. I'm not some kid preending I know what I'm talking about. I come from a family of rotards, I'm ******* Puerto Rican for gods sake. what else do we do, and I'm 27 y/o and I've been building these cars with my family my whole life. Get the **** over yourself. FYI half those "how to tune a weber" books give the shitty advise you have been giving. p.s. **** off for questioning my integrity. there are at least 20 people on this forum who have had my output shaft in thier hand I keep it in the glove box.
have a nice day 
08-03-09, 10:45 AM
#29
What could possibly go wr
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I used to notice that the idle circuit was usless always too rich for coasting and slight acceleration, but then too lean when the throttle was opened rapidly. I followed hyper4mance excellent thread on emulsion tubes and also did plenty of reasearch and trial and error myself to find the f11 are actually what I want in my system (12a steetport) most other tubes make it more rich at transition this is because its not lean thats the problem its far too rich already, in idle circuit and at transition from idle to main.
if you are like me when i started out you are way to rich in these conditions,
under 3k @ part throttle with a 120 holder/60 fuel
this was solved in my system by making 155 idle air holders out of my 120's and using a 80 idle fuel jet
this was done after finding no other way possible to raise mixtures from much less than 10.0 afr at part throttle at low engine speeds, when you increase an air bleed you effectivly bleed off signal from the fuel jet, now we need to find the correct amount of signal to bleed off to set afr's right through the range before the main system starts. in my situation a 155 ilde jet made it so i can coast at any rpm smooth like I wasnt modified, accelerate slowly in parking lots with out stinking of gas and having a jerky operation. this changed my wideband reading from 10.0 afr flat to ~11.5 afr in these same conditions, now its smooth and clean at all part throttle positions.
my system has always suffered from some(sometimes lots, depending mostly on venturie and idle jet size)of low end gasp
i found that this was not overly amplified by the idle jet holder modification, but slightly. so I made some large pump jets and shimmed the hell out of the pump spring, and now the pump shot seems to be much sharper than ever
my setup is
38.5mm venturies
standard 120idle jet holders drilled to 155mm
80 idle fuel jet
f11 e-tube 170 main/155 air
80 pump jet (pumnp rod spring extensivly shimmed)
working well and yeilding almost 20mpg city
this is what i find works best for ME right now, these figures were arrived at by listening to what the afr's were telling me and slowly changing in and out 1 peice at a time, and giving it time to see what the effect of each change was in different circumstances.
best of luck
08-03-09, 04:45 PM
#31
What could possibly go wr
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oh yeah its noticably quicker, and the only way i can find to make the 80 pump jets spray with enough pressure to work and not just dribble out. i cant remember what size washers, but I used a stack, 1 on the buttom in the piston to prevent the spring from bending around the catch rod this one needed to be quite modified to work, and several on top that i cut a slit into (just like the retainer) to make adding/remiving easy done with out removing the rod completly I'm currently using 3/4" in total.
08-04-09, 03:35 PM
#32
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I, too, found that F11 is what my car wants. The transition is too rich with the F3s, and with the F11s it's nearly perfect. It's possible I'll end up using the F3s later with smaller main jets, but for now I don't want to touch my main circuit until I get a new O2 sensor.
08-05-09, 11:45 PM
#33
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any one now a reliable wideband system thats isnt 300$ there must be another way to tune these with out wideband howd they do it back in the day??
any one selling weber parts on the forum?
any one selling weber parts on the forum?
08-06-09, 07:18 AM
#35
As cheap as most of us 1st genners tend to be, investing in a decent wideband is well worth the expendature. By the time one takes into concideration the cost of fuel, time, carb parts, wear and tear on the engine, purchasing a $300 wideband becomes downright cheap. I borrrowed an Innovative wideband to tune the Weber DCDs. On my trip back home I was seeing 23/24 mpg, (2 lane blacktop), and could cruise at 1500 rpm through small towns, even though my idle is set at 1600 rpm. Before tuning I couldn't cruise below 3kpm, too herky-jerky, nor run in 5th gear on the highway unless I was above 80mph. Keep in mind the widebody has a a 12A 1/2sp-1/2 bp for porting.
Take heed to Hyper's advice, he knows his **** and had done the leg work/research for us. Be happy he's willing to share his findings, most wouldn't and we'd be left out in the cold. If you're successful and get good at tuning, you may be able to help others to offset the cost of the wideband.
Take heed to Hyper's advice, he knows his **** and had done the leg work/research for us. Be happy he's willing to share his findings, most wouldn't and we'd be left out in the cold. If you're successful and get good at tuning, you may be able to help others to offset the cost of the wideband.
08-06-09, 01:31 PM
#36
A wideband is a great idea. It saved me a ton of time tuning and guessing. It's worth the $$. I use AEM's UEGO. And have put one in each rotor's exhaust pipe so I can see if there's anything wrong with either rotor. And put an EGT probe in each exhaust pipe. Why guess and get frustrated when you can work with real-time data and get the best possible tune?
08-06-09, 11:50 PM
#37
What could possibly go wr
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A wideband is a great idea. It saved me a ton of time tuning and guessing. It's worth the $$. I use AEM's UEGO. And have put one in each rotor's exhaust pipe so I can see if there's anything wrong with either rotor. And put an EGT probe in each exhaust pipe. Why guess and get frustrated when you can work with real-time data and get the best possible tune?
aem here too best $$$ i have spent yet.
thats the way I want to go wideband and pyro per rotor. +1 thats real and safe tunning I am definatly gonna get that before boost time
09-01-09, 11:19 PM
#44
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pierce manifolds is the best good prices no one else ships to canada because there little bitchs and too lazy to fill out a customs forum
only problem im having now is i put my intake on and good a bunch of mini surges so the k&ns going back on
only problem im having now is i put my intake on and good a bunch of mini surges so the k&ns going back on
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