No need to get excited now, go jump in your 14 second car if that and go snap some more output shafts with that 144 fot pounds of torque you are making have a nice day

 

you're dead wrong Hyper4mance2k. Rotorholic knows his stuff.

 

And here I thought all the drama was only in the drag forum.

 

its all in the afr's you need a wideband and to listen to what it is telling you your carb needs.

I used to notice that the idle circuit was usless always too rich for coasting and slight acceleration, but then too lean when the throttle was opened rapidly. I followed hyper4mance excellent thread on emulsion tubes and also did plenty of reasearch and trial and error myself to find the f11 are actually what I want in my system (12a steetport) most other tubes make it more rich at transition this is because its not lean thats the problem its far too rich already, in idle circuit and at transition from idle to main.

if you are like me when i started out you are way to rich in these conditions,
under 3k @ part throttle with a 120 holder/60 fuel

this was solved in my system by making 155 idle air holders out of my 120's and using a 80 idle fuel jet

this was done after finding no other way possible to raise mixtures from much less than 10.0 afr at part throttle at low engine speeds, when you increase an air bleed you effectivly bleed off signal from the fuel jet, now we need to find the correct amount of signal to bleed off to set afr's right through the range before the main system starts. in my situation a 155 ilde jet made it so i can coast at any rpm smooth like I wasnt modified, accelerate slowly in parking lots with out stinking of gas and having a jerky operation. this changed my wideband reading from 10.0 afr flat to ~11.5 afr in these same conditions, now its smooth and clean at all part throttle positions.

my system has always suffered from some(sometimes lots, depending mostly on venturie and idle jet size)of low end gasp
i found that this was not overly amplified by the idle jet holder modification, but slightly. so I made some large pump jets and shimmed the hell out of the pump spring, and now the pump shot seems to be much sharper than ever

my setup is
38.5mm venturies
standard 120idle jet holders drilled to 155mm
80 idle fuel jet
f11 e-tube 170 main/155 air
80 pump jet (pumnp rod spring extensivly shimmed)
working well and yeilding almost 20mpg city

this is what i find works best for ME right now, these figures were arrived at by listening to what the afr's were telling me and slowly changing in and out 1 peice at a time, and giving it time to see what the effect of each change was in different circumstances.
best of luck

 

shimming the pump spring, now that's a good idea. i can use a quicker reacting pump shot. You just use washers or something else? how many shims?

 

oh yeah its noticably quicker, and the only way i can find to make the 80 pump jets spray with enough pressure to work and not just dribble out. i cant remember what size washers, but I used a stack, 1 on the buttom in the piston to prevent the spring from bending around the catch rod this one needed to be quite modified to work, and several on top that i cut a slit into (just like the retainer) to make adding/remiving easy done with out removing the rod completly I'm currently using 3/4" in total.

 

Best advice yet. Every engine is different, and without a wideband you're just shooting in the dark.

I, too, found that F11 is what my car wants. The transition is too rich with the F3s, and with the F11s it's nearly perfect. It's possible I'll end up using the F3s later with smaller main jets, but for now I don't want to touch my main circuit until I get a new O2 sensor.

 

any one now a reliable wideband system thats isnt 300$ there must be another way to tune these with out wideband howd they do it back in the day??

any one selling weber parts on the forum?

 

I use the Autometer wide-band. Innovative, and PLX are awesome! A lot of people are reporting success with the JAW.

 

As cheap as most of us 1st genners tend to be, investing in a decent wideband is well worth the expendature. By the time one takes into concideration the cost of fuel, time, carb parts, wear and tear on the engine, purchasing a $300 wideband becomes downright cheap. I borrrowed an Innovative wideband to tune the Weber DCDs. On my trip back home I was seeing 23/24 mpg, (2 lane blacktop), and could cruise at 1500 rpm through small towns, even though my idle is set at 1600 rpm. Before tuning I couldn't cruise below 3kpm, too herky-jerky, nor run in 5th gear on the highway unless I was above 80mph. Keep in mind the widebody has a a 12A 1/2sp-1/2 bp for porting.

Take heed to Hyper's advice, he knows his **** and had done the leg work/research for us. Be happy he's willing to share his findings, most wouldn't and we'd be left out in the cold. If you're successful and get good at tuning, you may be able to help others to offset the cost of the wideband.

 

A wideband is a great idea. It saved me a ton of time tuning and guessing. It's worth the $$. I use AEM's UEGO. And have put one in each rotor's exhaust pipe so I can see if there's anything wrong with either rotor. And put an EGT probe in each exhaust pipe. Why guess and get frustrated when you can work with real-time data and get the best possible tune?

 

aem here too best $$$ i have spent yet.
thats the way I want to go wideband and pyro per rotor. +1 thats real and safe tunning I am definatly gonna get that before boost time

 

hyper do the 100 jet holders have smaller holes then the 120 holders??

 

yes. the size is a measurement of the hole. 100=1mm 120=1.2mm same with all jets and air correctors in webers. 65=.65mm and 180 mains are 1.8mm

 

The one hold towards the top is 1.00mm instead of 1.20mm. All the other holes on the bottom are the same size. You can also ream that top hole out, I had some success with 75 idle fuel, 130 jet holder.

 

60 f10 idles

100 holders

150 air correctors

185 mains

F3 e tubes

no more lean surge ****** amazingg

 

f3 tubes, smaller idle jets, and smaller idle corrector for the win. what did i tell you...

That's right, I was right. LOL!

 

Hey fb-elli, where did you get your 250 needle valve? I've searched and searched and I can't find one.

 

pierce manifolds is the best good prices no one else ships to canada because there little bitchs and too lazy to fill out a customs forum

only problem im having now is i put my intake on and good a bunch of mini surges so the k&ns going back on

 

Great thread and Info I needed.

 

dp