BARF1

Below you can see a pic of the clutch slave cylinder I pulled off my car yesterday when I got it out of storage. Nice an rusty after only 1 year with maybe 800 miles on it. Inside was all rusted up too. I'm at a total loss here. This is 3 in 3 years and 4 total I've had to replace. What am I doing wrong here that keeps wrecking these things? The one I put in to replace this one I painted with rust preventative paint and am using Castrol GT LMA (http://tinyurl.com/q3smxh) to try and prevent this from happening again. I also managed to strip out one of the bolts holding it to the trans. Stupid impatient me but I was just so furious about having to do this yet again I didn't take my time. Any way to repair that without having to drop the trans (previous posts I read this seems to be the only fix)? Anybody have any luck tapping it while trans in car? Maybe a helicoil? Bigger bolt?


By barf1 at 2009-05-10

Starfox07

Maybe clutch fluid is leaking down onto it. IIRC it deteriorates paint/metal fairly quickly. Have you replaced your master cylinder?

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

might want to change to a ss clutch line

Rxomeo

I jus had the same thing happen to me. car was in storage for a year went to start it up and drive around and the clutch slave was bad. there was still fluid in my reservoir by the way.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I stripped the threads in the tranny and had to retap to the next size up. Unfortunately it is a lot easier to do with the tranny out. This time around, replace both the master and slave, along with an SS braided line and clean out the steel line with brake cleaner and compressed air.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I tap deeper into the aluminum with the same size stock 8mm x 1.25 and use a stud like the old school bellhousings. Works a lot better in the long run.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

My threads were stripped all the way through. Put in a longer bolt, guess where it came out. Right between the teeth of the flywheel. Starter didn't appreciate having the flywheel locked.

Kentetsu

Make sure you don't have anything dripping down onto the slave cylinder. Got to be some reason for the short lifespans. Maybe pack the next one with grease under the rubber boot, to help keep water out? Good luck...

RustyRacer

They just do that. I replaced the slave and master and line, and within 3 months it looked worse than yours. I think next time I'm going to try Brake Paint. But for now it works, well sort of, the throwout bearing is needing to be replaced.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i had to replace my slave, usually when that goes you have to replace the master also within a few days because the pressure of the new one fouls the other one, but i haven't had to do that and its been 3 years, also mine hasn't gottened like that, its got a bit of rusty looking stuff, but that's where i was cleaning up my engine bay a bit lol.

maybe its the brand or something? i just got w/e they have as oem on advance, and its worked great for me.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

No experience with that. I use FC clutch slave mixed with an old school push-rod (adjustable). this prevents eliminates over workkng the clutch master and clutch slave cylinder. over working occurs when you adjust the pedal's push rod to accommodate for a stiff dual friction pressure plate

BARF1

Replaced all clutch hydraulics and was able to tap hole successfully with trans in car. Guess we'll see what happens next year.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

This is what you need to do.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the slave cylinder commonly leaks due to the rubber seal on the piston inside of the slave cylinder shrinking up. i rebuild my slave cylinders with the oem rebuild kit. less than $20 from the dealer and i have had no issues what so ever. i also replace the clutch hose with an oem hose from the dealer as well. a braided stainless line from RB will last longer and give you a stronger pedal feel due to the line not being able to expand under pressure.