I want to do this. Have any of u done this? Lol

 

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/20beast-gsl-se-967803/
its in a gsl-se, but its the same idea.

 

By 3 rotor I assume you're referring to a 20b.. If you do some research you will find that the 20b is very expensive and will not fit the SA22C without custom fabrication. Do some searching in the 20b forum and you will find lots of information.. if you're still interested in the swap after finding out what those guys have had to spend to make it work, more power to you, it would definitely be a fast car..

 

I'll do my research for sure. I weld here at work so I can do all my fabwork here. We have all of the materials I will need as well.

 

Definitely not a cheap setup to run. If you got the $$, it's possible. Just takes time and research for the build.

 

I better start saving. From what I know, it us the ultimate street car build .

 

The engine alone can run close to 5 grand used. Will likely need a rebuild, so you might as well port it and lighten the assembly. Plus te rebuild kit. One for a 2 rotor is about a grand so more than that. Custom exhaust, ecu, etc. will not be cheap and will take a lot of time. If you have the money, do it. If not, get a TII engine.

 

You also need a lot of desire to see it through. I'm affraid my setup is just draining me so I want to make a change. Either pull it and put it in something else or move it rearward so you have some room for a cooling system. Don't make the same mistake I did.

 

What was that? Does it not fit properly?

 

I don't like the way the engine is sitting in the car. If I would have known how it would turn out, I'd have either gone rearward with it from the start or not put it in the chassis at all. Now I have to go back in and redo a bunch of stuff, wasting time and money. So I don't really know whether to cut my losses and swap in a 13B at this point, or stick it out even though I'm no longer enjoying the process, all the time hoping the end result will be ok/good enough. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury to sit and ponder. I've gotta get several cars up and running this season.

My choices right now are pretty simple. Either look for an FC/FD, or go ahead and redo everything to move the engine rearward, or pull it and stick it in the one car it's been in before, before I pulled it to do the rebuild with streetport.

It did run and drive in that other car, although to get it in was a bit of a hack job. Plus it ran hot as I had not yet solved the cooling issues and the exhaust was too small. Several things have improved including the cooling system and the exhaust since then, though. So it's VERY tempting.

Then again the 1st gen is a solid chassis. But the front end is noticeably lower than the rear with the heavy engine so far forward. Would moving it back 2" do anything? Probably not. At least if it goes in the other car, it goes back 160mm or around 6.6" and the battery gets relocated so there's an additional 40 pounds gone from up front.

They say the 20B weighs about 80 pounds more than an S5 13B. You have the thick intermediate plate at about 36 pounds, plus the 3rd housing at like 14 pounds, the rotor at 9, the extra length of shaft and tension bolts at whatever they are. The intake manifold is bigger so it weighs more, and the exhaust is bigger. So in this other car, keeping the front of the engine in the same spot as a 13B and only going rearward is a good thing to keep me motivated. The tranny tunnel has already been cut up once before. I'm not sure I'd have the heart to cut up the GSL-SE in the same way.

 

dude thats alot of dedication so far to just not continue! stick it out, and when ur done, ill fly to seattle, and drive it to see if its worth the money spent! lol

this is something id really like to do..

im going for a sleeper type car u know? my SA is completely stock with the exception of racing beat headers back.

i want speed lol...

and as far as your setup goes, im pretty sure there are a few more ways u can try to accomidate the extra poundage. moving the motor further back seems pretty solid, and just a thought, maybe u can replace some heavier parts in the front with a softer aluminum alloy?

like a custom hood made out of aluminum sheet or plate?

grandma always tells me if there is a will there is a way! brainstorm!

and if u need any farfetched ideas as far as weight reduction, im a 19 year old kid that is full of dumb *** ideas (wich usually work) lol

 

Ok, I'm willing to work with you over the forum, sharing ideas and pictures. I'm ready to consider anything.

Edit: Oh, I get it now. You want me to keep at it in the 1st gen chassis so you have a template to work from.

 

Well being that ur trying to eliminate right toward the front, have u thought of a tint front?

 

Lol yes

 

Now you're not making sense.

 

Weight* and yes id like an example of a successful swap to go by

 

respeed front bumper mounts, aluminum water pump housing, battery relocation/braille battery and you've already lost 30-40lbs from the front end.

 

This article unfortunately doesn't go into great detail about the car, but it's an '85 with a 20b.
http://www.screamingtyres.com/?p=1592

 

I think I know what my problem is. I'm spread too thin. I'm in charge of about ten cars right now so I'm only devoting a true 10% to the 20B 1st gen project. That's not enough. It's not fair to you guys, or me or the car. I can't commit 100% to this because 100% is not available to give.

What to do, what to do?

I like the pics in that link. Looks like the guy kept his tranny in the stock location too. Check out the space between the UIM and the heater hoses. Interesting radiator setup.

 

Anything can be done with time and money.
Given the choice, myself and probably anyone would take a 20B swap over most 2 rotor engines.Its a badass,the pinnicle of the production rotary engine. And thats why its so rare and expensive. Few have the $$ and resources to do it,far more people have done the TII swap (myself included) because its far simpler and you still get a lot of power into a pretty light car.

Usually,when someone asks in a simple 1-2 sentence post that they want to do a 20B swap(or even the TII swap),they are regarded as having not done their homework. Not neccessarily in an insulting way, it does get asked a lot and it does require a lot of research and work to solve all the problems.The 13B was offered in the 1st gen,so just about any version of the engine can be dropped into a 1st gen with little fuss.The 20B brings a lot of unique problems to the table......

Availibility first of all.They were never sold here,so you have to puy up in full just to see your new engine,let alone pick the best one out there.If its in less than ideal condition,rebuilding will cost a lot more than a 2 rotor and some of the 20B parts are getting scarce ($$). There are no mounts or oilpans out there to bolt the engine up to a 1st gen chassis,so an FC front suspension swap is usually required.There was never a stick shift 20B,so you will almost assuredly have to run a standalone EFI system,since the ECU is made for an auto.Smog compliance is likely out the window(Im from CA,so smog is always a top issue here) The 20B makes a boatload of torque,so the trans and rearend will HAVE to be upgraded.....ect,ect.

 

Steve: level-headed and logical as always.

 

u can always sell it to me lol

 

dude well said. it is but a dream for now. i need to get another first gen first cause my dd SA is way to clean to do anything to.