I seen peopel talk about 3 coil direct firing,Well I just came across some FC Trailing/Leading coils with the ignitors.

Would it be over kill If I ran a 4 coil set up?

Now for those of you who have ran a 3 coil set up was it really worth it?

Did you notice anything?

How would I wire in 3 coils,and 4 if it will help..
(Draw stematics)

 

I don't believe you could use the stock FC coils on the FB unless you are using some other ECU to power them. Something about the resistors that trigger them being too different and they burn out fast.

 

I have a three coil setup, and honestly, I havent seen that much of a difference yet .

~T.J.

EDIT: You wouldnt get the joke unless you can see the picture .

 

I run the stock FC Trailing coils right now in replacement over the stock ones,and every one says they are better than after market blasters.


You just cant use the ignitors.

 

Ok you have 3 coils but not all 3 are hooked up,Why the hell,?

 

Cool. What do you use for an ignitor? An MSD Box?

 

Im doing a turbo II swap, the engine didnt come with coils,

I have two msd B2 from the stock engine, and one sitting around.

could I just wire two in parallel to fire the leading. instead of the stock, twin coil?

 

82, yes you can. And make it direct fire while your at it. Bypass the damn cap.

 

I dont have an MSD box yet, and I havent built DLDFIS yet cause Im lazy.

~T.J.

 

Stock ignitors...

MSD box will be soon,Will 4 coils be effective over 3?

Wheres the stemtatics on a 3 coil directfire?
Also what is the concept of a direct fire set up?

 

you cant use 4 coils !!!the 3 coil setup is called the waste spark system , its like the 86 and up cars ....it fires both leading plugs at the same time , you cant do that with the trailing plugs....

 

680's right. You can't use direct fire wasted spark on the trailing because it will ignite the incoming mixture. Unfortunately there's no easy (cheap?) way to run trailing direct fire on a 1st gen so you're pretty much stuck with the dizzy cap.

 

680 and rev are right. As far as schematics, they're on Jeffs page.

 

If you go with Non-Stock coils, what do you put in the stock coil location? I don't like funny holes there.

 

2 Beers? Never hurts yo carry spares! hehehe

 

I added a 30amp automotive relay to my DLIDFIS setup and it helped really low RPM drivability (below 1000RPM). A must on any previously points ignition so the 'juice' no longer needs to flow through the 20+ year old ignition wiring. Mine was so bad it would heat up the wires while running and had .9 volts drop. My alt outputs 14V and the ignitors only saw 13.9 volts. Now I can putt around well below idle speed if need be (usefull in an REPU). Oh, and high RPM is superb, too!

 

There isn't 4 coils on an FC in the first place. The leading coil is just dual post. Its still only one coil.

 

im saying replace the dual post coil with two standard coils wired in parrallel.

this is one a haltech controlled 91 TII engine.

my engine didnt come with coils, so this is cheaper

 

Ok and who the hell is Jeff

 

Jeff20B. Hes got a good site with lots of info. Im gonna use his DLIDFIS design if I dont get an MSD box anytime soon. I have all the parts laying around, Im just too lazy, lol.

http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/

~T.J.

 

Hey Jeff20B.... do you have any updated schematics that show this 30amp relay? I can't quite picture how that would help. Also wondering if you've had an opportunity to mess around with those GM ignitors yet?

 

Ok ..I dont know how the hell I didnt see him post..

Im stressed out

 

Oops, I meant to say 13.1 instead of 13.9.

The relay I used is sold at Radio Shack. It's like $6 or something. I could probably draw a relay schematic, but it's pretty simple. In my REPU, I ran a 10AWG wire from the solenoid (since my battery is under the bed) up to one high amp terminal of the relay, and then another 10AWG wire from one of the coil terminals to the other high amp terminal of the relay. All the coil + and B ignitor terminals are hooked together (covered in the DLIDFIS article). The ignition switch controls the relay and turns it on and off. The relay only needs a few milliamps to make it work; far easier on the old ignition wires. The relay itself actually takes the brunt of the ignition system's amperage requirement.

RotorMotorDriver, do you still need an MSD? I've still got my 6AL, and it's for sale.

inittab, nope, I haven't messed with any GM ignitors yet. I'm actually still waiting for peejay to do something with them.