TurboSE

OOPS!!! sorry 4 hijaking the thread!
Now getting back to the circuit..........
DeFinetly worth The money........AWESOME IMPROVEMENT
especially after 6K rpms and low end torque(for street daily driving the normal mode is the best) but w/ the switch towards LED made a little difference on top end power.....But it doesnt idle right=(
Thanks kent I want 3 more!!!!

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

If the fixed pulse width is better for high end, and variable better for low end, you need to get yourselfs some micro switches and mount them to the throttle linkage so it switches the pusle widths at the optimal RPMs, lol. That would be kinda trick, but I assume not very feasable seeing as the amount of thottle application varies so much. For instance, you floor the car at lower RPMs rather than lineraly opening it. You switch pulse widths at the impropper RPM. Maybe instead you could use your tach output wire you incorperated to trigger a relay/circuit/dohickey that would swith them at a certain voltage (RPM)? Would it even be safe to switch them while in use? Would the electronics transition fast enough? Would it even be worth doing? Is it even possible?

~T.J.

EDIT: Nice times TurboSE, could you PM me your engine setup?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

An RPM activated switch such as a shift light or buzzer circuit would work. That way it'd be independant of throttle position.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Yes, it should be doable to add either an RPM switch to transistion between the modes or use a microswitch as TJ pointed out. I am not sure if it is worth the effort or not.

The gain that you feel on the high end is probably caused by the PW on the variable mode drops below 2ms. The fixed PW mode forces a 2ms PW, so in this case the chage time is more with the fixed PW mode.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you need some dyno tuning and testing Lookie! I contributed an idea to the project! Im special Haha, j/k. Good going so far guys, keep it up! Looks like a good mod!

~T.J.

jayroc

Yeah, that would be a good idea if the 2ms pulse is that much better at higher RPM.
It'd prolly be best to have a 2nd circuit in to toggle between the modes. The input from the coil itself for RPMs would work well.
Is it worth the effort, I wonder.. I've yet to test mine, actually. Early next week I plan to.

Sanspistons

Hey, just doing my bit to keep this great thread from dropping to page 92 or so...

Also, I'm confused about the connector needed for the stock module; is another needed for the new board? Why can't you use the original? I must have missed something here...

Sanspistons: Rotor Saved, Rotor Shaved...

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for bumping it up. Yes, you can use the stock connector if you would like. I was adding connector to the ones that I built to make the install easy. In addition, this way you can leave the stock wiring and coils in place. That way if the circuit or 2nd gen coil assembly fails, one can switch back to stock in about 2 minutes. This is experimental at this stage, so it is good to have a backup.

Kent

Sanspistons

Ah, Kent; you just answered one of my questions on the other thread...!

Sabe on the backup but don't why you can't use the signal from the stock ignitor with dual connectors to switch back to the stock coils if needed? I guess I'm just missing something here.

Sanspistons: Rotary God Gadfly

TurboSE

This just in............Gas mileage improved W the trick! and car smokes less during cold start

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Well, if you split the connection, the J-109 would still be firing the 1st gen coil. This is a waste. One of the nice thing about this circuit is that it takes the load off of the J-109. This means that the J-109 will last much longer. This is especially important as parts become more scarce. This is also an advantage over the DLIDFIS because it does require additional J-109s (I know you could use HEI or something else instead).

THe other thing is that the - terminal of the coil gets high voltage spikes (100 volts or more) and had a ringing to it. Boith of these are caused by firing the coil. If the coil isn't there (signal just goes to transistor trick circuit), the signal stays square and is limited to battery voltage and ground.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Really? That's cool. Do you know the approximate difference? I haven't really checked mine. I really didn't check my mileage before, so i don't have anything to compare to. Have you checked the color of the plugs? I know you said there were pretty black before (maybe just because your timing was off). I haven't checked the color of the FC plugs yet, but the stock plugs were nice and tan with the trick circuit and they used to be black (especially after idling or low loads) with the stock ignition.

Kentetsu

Checked my plugs today, and they look perfect (just like they did before). I haven't checked my mileage yet, I figure I'd better wait until I'm done thrashing her around with all the testing I've been doing. I updated the other thread on my impressions after a couple hundred miles, so check that out if you have time....

Did anybody else have to adjust their timing after the install? Mine was retarded about 10 degrees...

Nice work Kent!

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, man. Glad you like. Did you track down the weak spark situation? There was a report towards the beginning of this thread about the timing retarding issue. I am glad you guys found that. I haven't really checked mine. I did advance it a few degrees (guesstimated) when the report of the timing issue came up. I need to get a light to check mine. I think the retardation of the timing must be due to the 2nd gen ignitor. Everything in the circuit should be plenty fast and shouldn't cause any real delay. I noticed a big difference in performance over stock even being 10 degrees retarded. I assume that you are running the variable PW mode. The fixed PW mode just doesn't seem to work well at idle and low rpm.

I am still on the quest for those connectors. I think I have about 6 or 8 more people lined up who wants one of these. When I build another batch, I'll put together a write-up so that everyone can build their own if they would like.

Keep up the good work on the testing, guys. It is very helpful. It lets us test the circuit on a variety of engines and conditions. Anyone else that wants one, let me know. I am putting together a list to figure out how many I need to put together.

Kent

Kentetsu

Well, I'm not really sure that the spark was weak. It was daylight, and with the 2nd gen plugs it's kind of hard to tell. Judging by the performance though, there is no issue...

TurboSE

i'm not sure how much more miles i get ..But i think i am getting better mileage........I'll fill her up tomorrow and see how many miles i get to the tank

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I don't doubt that you are going to get an improvement. It seemed that you were pretty rich before. Hopefully this setup is helping to burn more of the fuel. Let us know what you find out for mileage.

Kent

jayroc

Hey, got my circuit in, but am having a bit of trouble. The car won't start now. I think I may have accidentally crossed the sensor and power wires.
The coils are firing, but very slowly, and the timing seems to be off. Also the green light stays on when ignition is powered. Does yours do that too? I can't reset the timing at the moment since nobody is here..

lovintha7

Make sure your power is going to the tan wire on the 2nd gen coil, and the signal wire from the transistor circuit is going to the signal wire on the 2nd gen coil. (it's not the single black wire, but the other one, I forget the color.) I did this too at first, seemed no harm no foul. The LED will stay solid untill you get some rpms. Then it will flash quickly, increasing in speed with RPM.

jayroc

Okay, the green light is on at IGN and it blinks with RPM, even if the coil isn't firing (as seen via the timing light). The power wire (IGN+12v) is going to the brown wire, and the signal wire is going to the red wire on the coil. It is grounded, so is the coil, directly to battery. Positive for the coil is going over to the stock leading coil +12v terminal. I am wondering if this is the problem, though I don't see how right off..
I've reset it back to stock and verified it still works. Then, I put the trick circuit back on and tried the trailing ignitor signal for input to the trick circuit. Strangely, it starts right up, but I lost tach signal, since tach signal comes from trailing. It seems to have a pretty solid idle even on trailing, and revs 'okay'..
If I put it on the leading, it doesn't want to fire, or fires slowly/sporadically. I know the ignitor is good, but I replaced it anyway and it does the same thing.
This is very weird... I know everything works. Maybe I need to wire the coil to a different IGN+12v source? Maybe the stock leading coil is draining voltage somehow?
Other ideas??

jayroc

Got it fixed. Apparently, I forgot my signal wire to my ECU was going to the leading - terminal..
oops
Works really well. Low end is much improved and the idle is much more steady. I like it.

jayroc

BTW, the exhaust sounds more like a FC now.. B)

lovintha7

Glad to hear you got it going. Did you end up changing to the FC leading spark plugs, or are you still running the 1st gen plugs? I ended up going with NA FC plugs. They work really well with the transistor trick.

jayroc

Yeah, switched to the FC plugs. I agree, they do work very well.

fatmanslim247

hey guys can i get a write up on how to put this together... if i have instructions i can do anything.