GavinJuice

oh cmon...........

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

its true ... i started thinking abou the idea after he told me about it. He still keeps thing very confidential. I just wanted to see if anyone else has done it here before on our 1st gens.

nick812

Thats a great member there. Thats alright i like my stock 125amp alt. it was easy and cheap.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I just don't want to talk about it in public until it's done and working...after that, I'll be happy to discuss it...But keep in mind that it's a $1000-$1500 upgrade.

I'll answer the PM soon.

nick812

Ok then just explain why this would be a good upgrade? Like I said I upgraded my alt. by having it rebuilt and modifyed to put out almost double what the stock had. I could have went bigger but didnt see the point. 125 amps is more than enough for our cars even if its efi.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's an upgrade because it means better voltage regulation, the ability to instantly start radically ported engines, no problems in cold weather, a solid 13.8V system regardless of voltage, never having a dead battery, no flooding, and a bunch of other stuff....But really, it's just something neat with a lot of bragging rights.

nick812

Ok this is what is confising me for around $500 I coud have a duel alt dual pulley kit and 2 red top battery's this would kinda acheave the same thing as what you are tring to do right? around 250 apms out of the alt's and 800+ccAx2 with the batterys? Maybe I am missing something. This is what i was thinking about doing.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You're missing something. It won't achieve the same thing because it's still a 12V system.

nick812

Ok but it would take much to make it a 24V wire the battery's and matbe a little more for modding the alt. right I really want to try and under stand bc I want better starting in cold weather. Your system seams like it would do it but why wouldnt mine do the same?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

This is very hard to explain to someone if they don't have electronics knowledge.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

I understand how a 24 volt system would help an engine that needs massive starting torque. (I work for the local mass transit system. That means busses and rail construction vehicles... Insanely huge diesels in them.)

However for the very small amount of energy that it takes to spin over a rotary, I don't believe it's feasable to have a 24 volt system... UNLESS the modifications deal with removing the gear reduction from the starter to achieve higher starting RPMs... (Which comes to mind because you mentioned radically ported engines and flooding.)

I'm intrigued now.

I have electronics knowledge, clue me in Aaron Cake.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Running the 12V starter at 24V would make it spin twice as fast with twice as much torque. And being able to set the "12V" system at 13.8V and NEVER worry about voltage drop from an overloaded alternator or a dead battery is a great thing. I love how my Insight holds between 13.8 and 14.2V (depending on the requirements of the 12V aux battery) regardless of load because of it's DC-DC converter (hint). Also, ever tried to start a daily driver peripheral port car under 3 feet of snow?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Some how, owning both an Insight and a peripheral port reminds of Jekyll and Hyde. A 24 volt system is now beginning to sound interesting.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

I was under the impression that "perhipheral port" and "daily driver" didn't belong in the same sentence. I have no experience with ported rotaries. I'll need to buy a drill press here soon and try it a'la PeeJay style.

But spinning the 12 volt starter at 24 volts would also run the possibility of burning up the starter.

I'm starting to see where this is going though.

I know you can get 16-18 volt batteries and alternators for GM drag cars with wild cams or insane compression. Might be a thing to look into. GM alternators can bolt up to RX-7's with some minor modification. Check Jegs or Summit.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Starters are robust...Barstool racers use them at much higher voltages then 24V.

16-18V still has the same issues that 12V does.

Phiber Optik

iTrader: (2)

If you have the right 12volt equipment and installation there is NO NEED for 24volt equipment

real alternator outputting over 140amps, real battery over 150 min. reserve, real wiring for the current hogging accessories will do just fine. the last is the most forgotten as the mazda wiring is weak even for stock draw!

For example I run a strong 12volt system done properly and even one of my amplifers draws 417amps (measured with fluke true rms clamp) without voltage drop... i'm pretty sure I can turn a starter over in winter too

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I understand where he is going with the starter. When the bug was converted to 12v and the 6v starter was left in, it spun over and started like no other car I have ever owned. I thought my mechanic was nuts, but I did trust him and his judgement. The starter worked great for years, no matter what the weather or the condition of the battery was.