ITS31

Greetings,

I have a 1984 GSL-SE (13b). This is an Improved Touring race car, very light engine mods (K&N air filter, Racing Beat header, SuperTrapp exhaust.

History, after a race the car blew the ignition fusible link (would crank, not start, no spark). After towing home and replacing the blown link (with a 30A fuse) car started and ran fine.

After several more race weekends, this problem repeated. Again, replacing the 30A fuse (fusible link) fixed the problem.

Now the fun starts. At a track day event, same situation. This time replacing the fuse did not correct the problem (crank, no start, no spark from either coil). After a half hour of messing around, it started and ran (1/2 hour on track, no issues). Parked it, same thing, blew the fuse, replaced it, no start (no spark again). This repeated once more, then it quit for good.

Note: Every time it ran fine until shut down (I have a fuel pump switch I shut off), then it would not restart.

I've got voltage (batt) to the coils, but no spark out of either one (leading or trailing).

Has anyone ever seen this or anything like it?

Any help or suggestions would be great.

Thanks in advance!

bliffle

No, never saw this problem. But my SE is an 85, and I've heard enough 84SE problems to steer clear of the 84.

Perhaps the problem is that you replaced the fusible link with a fuse. Different types of fuses and fusible links have different characteristics: slow-blow vs. fast-blow, for example. Personally, I like to go with OEM stuff, so when the one fusible link blew that I have on my 4 rotarys (the headlight motor on my 83GS about 4 years ago) I replaced it with a fusible link from a JY car. Problem solved. No recurrence.

I notice that a lot of guys like to replace the fusible links with blade fuses, but I can't see the need. YMMV

toofastGT

What is the current draw on that circuit? If you don't have a multi meter get one
and learn to use it on some simple circuits using a battery and a light bulb and
a small electric motor(ie voltage under load versus no load, current measuring
of circuits, resistance measurements) Then do the tests on the car. A few tests
with a $15.00 DMM will save a lot of money and untold of headaches. You can
but fusible link wire at any parts store and is better then using junkyard ones
that could already be used up to a point or could even been replaced with regular
wire and just look like FL wire. Stuff like wire should always be brand new and
if your race day hinges on the performance of it (maybe safety too) I wouldn't
cut corners. Even if you use a component opening it up and resoldering new
wire to the part can make it last and perform better, twenty some year old wire
insualtion is not worthg the fire hazard it can be.http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index...TS&Category=24
That marine grade wire is guaranteed to last longer then the car!! It is tinned
all the way to reduce the possibility of corrosion. Of course replacing the wires
in the car is a big job but is well worth it when you figure in the reliability it can
add. Just make a project goal of replacing say 20feet of wire or 3 circuits a
weekend and before you know it you will be done. http://www.sherco-auto.com/cg.htm Use solder and crimp the wires for the best possible joint.