1979 Rear end change to a gsl
09-03-03, 07:42 PM
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1979 Rear end change to a gsl
I was wondering if anyone knows what parts I need in order to replace the stock 1979 rear end with a gsl rear end. I've heard that I might need the emergancy brake assembly and something about brake line connectors. Any help would be appreciated!!
09-03-03, 08:24 PM
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The brake line thread pitch is different. MazdaTrix sells brake lines with the older thread pitch on one end, and the newer thread on the other so you can use later model rearends on the SA's.
The last section of E-brake cables from the disk brake car will also be needed.
The last section of E-brake cables from the disk brake car will also be needed.
09-03-03, 11:18 PM
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rear swap inst
uh... a rear end and a brake line.
if you can get lucky you can find an entire rear (disc and all) at a junkyard disconnect the e-brake lines from the handle cable not the brakes, you need a brake line(stock) from a later first gen with lsd (ie 85 gsl) , you'll also have to unbolt the flange from the old rear and trnsfer to lsd rear, they should be different
good time to replace any bent control arms andreplace struts if needed, and all rear susp bushings. and don't bother putting the sway bar back on it's useless.
joe
if you can get lucky you can find an entire rear (disc and all) at a junkyard disconnect the e-brake lines from the handle cable not the brakes, you need a brake line(stock) from a later first gen with lsd (ie 85 gsl) , you'll also have to unbolt the flange from the old rear and trnsfer to lsd rear, they should be different
good time to replace any bent control arms andreplace struts if needed, and all rear susp bushings. and don't bother putting the sway bar back on it's useless.
joe
09-04-03, 09:19 AM
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Ok, I just finished this swap, and I'll give you a run-down on what I needed.
Firstly, try to get an axle from an '81 or '82 GSL. That way you don't have to mess with different driveshaft flanges. If you can't get either of those two, you'll need the driveshaft from the axle as well. Try to get the lowest mileage unit you can get, because the limited slip wears out over time, and will begin to act like an open diff.
Second, get new pads and rotors. Don't even try to take a chance on junkyard units. Make sure that you get the e-brake cables that run from the caliper to the body line.
You will have to adapt the brake thread pitch for the flexible line that attaches the axle hydraulics to the lines that run to the master cylinder. What I did was retain the original flexible line and build a little adaptor out of steel brake line, with an end from the old lines on the '79 axle and a new end that fits the thread pattern on the new axle. Then I got another flexible line, a clutch hose from a 1994 Pathfinder, and used the adaptor to connect the two together. You need to do this because the original flexible hose won't reach on it's own. I got the Pathfinder hose because no one in town stocks RX-7 parts.
I also made new hard brake lines for the axle, because the ones on mine were badly corroded.
When attaching the new axle to the links, make sure that the car is jacked up to ride height before tightening the bolts to spec. If you don't do this, the rear end will bind and the car will snap oversteer on every corner. Leave the rear sway bar off, and try it out. I personally prefer the bar on the street, but not on the autocross course. It's up to you.
Oh, be prepared to fix the wheel bearings and axle seals. Because the car was sitting for a while, the seals may have dried out, and the bearings could be starting to wear out as well.
Good luck.
Firstly, try to get an axle from an '81 or '82 GSL. That way you don't have to mess with different driveshaft flanges. If you can't get either of those two, you'll need the driveshaft from the axle as well. Try to get the lowest mileage unit you can get, because the limited slip wears out over time, and will begin to act like an open diff.
Second, get new pads and rotors. Don't even try to take a chance on junkyard units. Make sure that you get the e-brake cables that run from the caliper to the body line.
You will have to adapt the brake thread pitch for the flexible line that attaches the axle hydraulics to the lines that run to the master cylinder. What I did was retain the original flexible line and build a little adaptor out of steel brake line, with an end from the old lines on the '79 axle and a new end that fits the thread pattern on the new axle. Then I got another flexible line, a clutch hose from a 1994 Pathfinder, and used the adaptor to connect the two together. You need to do this because the original flexible hose won't reach on it's own. I got the Pathfinder hose because no one in town stocks RX-7 parts.
I also made new hard brake lines for the axle, because the ones on mine were badly corroded.
When attaching the new axle to the links, make sure that the car is jacked up to ride height before tightening the bolts to spec. If you don't do this, the rear end will bind and the car will snap oversteer on every corner. Leave the rear sway bar off, and try it out. I personally prefer the bar on the street, but not on the autocross course. It's up to you.
Oh, be prepared to fix the wheel bearings and axle seals. Because the car was sitting for a while, the seals may have dried out, and the bearings could be starting to wear out as well.
Good luck.
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