14000 RPM? Possible?
06-29-02, 07:56 PM
#26
82streetracer -
actually, i just thought about what you said ...
i think the small overlap is EXACTLY the reason why it would make more power and achieve higher RPMs. if you think about it ... less overlap would inherently mean a stronger intake charge since there's less combusted crap going back to mix with the next intake cycle.
also, having the exhaust in the side housings would then make the exhaust timing a bit more receptive to the manipulation of porting ... which means you can alter port size and port shape a bit more, and as a byproduct, it means that you can alter temperatures and keep the hot spots where they help and not hinder power production ...
this might be a simplistic view of things, so i would still hope that someone else can add or correct what i just said ...
actually, i just thought about what you said ...
i think the small overlap is EXACTLY the reason why it would make more power and achieve higher RPMs. if you think about it ... less overlap would inherently mean a stronger intake charge since there's less combusted crap going back to mix with the next intake cycle.
also, having the exhaust in the side housings would then make the exhaust timing a bit more receptive to the manipulation of porting ... which means you can alter port size and port shape a bit more, and as a byproduct, it means that you can alter temperatures and keep the hot spots where they help and not hinder power production ...
this might be a simplistic view of things, so i would still hope that someone else can add or correct what i just said ...
06-29-02, 08:29 PM
#27
Anytime that Rob builds a engine that will see over 8,500 alot he does some serious mods to the . Put it this way...or as he once told me. "If anyone tried to put one of my engines back together...it would rattle itself apart." I know more, but i'm leaving it at that. (There are reasons why he's offers such awesome warrentys on ported engines. 
)
As far as 9k on a stock E-shaft....thats no big deal. There are some things you do to it, but nothing major. My 12a factory peripheral did'nt want to stay under 11k...and it held together until I lost a fan belt and drove around for 2 days without it. I did'nt even notice until the battery whent dead.
The had about 20-22k extremely hard street miles on it.
Also, if you guys remember Billy burnam who ran a supercharged 3 rotor? He whent through the traps at around 9,500+ with his 3 rotor.
Later, CJ
)As far as 9k on a stock E-shaft....thats no big deal. There are some things you do to it, but nothing major. My 12a factory peripheral did'nt want to stay under 11k...and it held together until I lost a fan belt and drove around for 2 days without it. I did'nt even notice until the battery whent dead.
The had about 20-22k extremely hard street miles on it.Also, if you guys remember Billy burnam who ran a supercharged 3 rotor? He whent through the traps at around 9,500+ with his 3 rotor.
Later, CJ
06-29-02, 08:37 PM
#28
hey pp13bnos -
just curious ... what was the power curve on your 12A peri? don't worry, i'm not asking for specs or anything, it's just i've never driven one and i'm curious to know if what i imagined it would be like is what it actually is.
where does it idle?
does it make power to the end of the RPM band?
you had that thing on the street?
just curious ... what was the power curve on your 12A peri? don't worry, i'm not asking for specs or anything, it's just i've never driven one and i'm curious to know if what i imagined it would be like is what it actually is.
where does it idle?
does it make power to the end of the RPM band?
you had that thing on the street?
06-30-02, 05:26 PM
#29
Senior Member
Originally posted by diabolical1
well, aside from a few articles which basically said the same things ... all i know about the Renesis s are that they moved the exhaust to the side housings and that the engine is a LOT more efficient at combustion because of it ... as for RPM limits ... i'm at a loss.
anyone care to shed some light on it?
besides ... are they available for people like us to get our hands on them? (just asking, not being facetious)
well, aside from a few articles which basically said the same things ... all i know about the Renesis s are that they moved the exhaust to the side housings and that the engine is a LOT more efficient at combustion because of it ... as for RPM limits ... i'm at a loss.
anyone care to shed some light on it?
besides ... are they available for people like us to get our hands on them? (just asking, not being facetious)
the power I think its from the low overlap and increased compression and the new 3 stage intake system they have. They claim it fills the chamber better at varible rpms kind of like a six-port. its like the varible intake on the "R26B" but with 3 set stages.
Last edited by protlewski; 06-30-02 at 05:30 PM.
06-30-02, 11:35 PM
#30
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So your telling me that you ran your motor for 2 days at around 11k and it dident blow up within 2 hours? i am sorry but basicaly no motor will last more than a couple hours with no water pump... And ya as far as "not wanting to run much below 11k" i kinda dissagree. my motor which is a pp12a also does fine right between 5-9k. And yes no matter what you say, the shaft does flex past 9k. and without side cut rotors your not going to get very many miles out of it past that rpm. One of you was asking about where the pwr badn is on these guys is. Mine idles at about 1500-1750 and pulls slowly till about 4200 then it starts to take off. and by 5k you better be hanging on. runs strong all the way up to 8800 or so. Also pp13bnos- i thought your motor that was in the truck was a 13b? did you get another motor? I dont want to start a flame war here... Actualy for the rest of you this just proves that there are drastically differing opinions in this end of things, and every one has there own style. many different ways to do things out there and no one way is right. Rob will aggree with that.
CJG
CJG
Originally posted by pp13bnos
Anytime that Rob builds a engine that will see over 8,500 alot he does some serious mods to the . Put it this way...or as he once told me. "If anyone tried to put one of my engines back together...it would rattle itself apart." I know more, but i'm leaving it at that. (There are reasons why he's offers such awesome warrentys on ported engines. )
As far as 9k on a stock E-shaft....thats no big deal. There are some things you do to it, but nothing major. My 12a factory peripheral did'nt want to stay under 11k...and it held together until I lost a fan belt and drove around for 2 days without it. I did'nt even notice until the battery whent dead. The had about 20-22k extremely hard street miles on it.
Also, if you guys remember Billy burnam who ran a supercharged 3 rotor? He whent through the traps at around 9,500+ with his 3 rotor.
Later, CJ
Anytime that Rob builds a engine that will see over 8,500 alot he does some serious mods to the . Put it this way...or as he once told me. "If anyone tried to put one of my engines back together...it would rattle itself apart." I know more, but i'm leaving it at that. (There are reasons why he's offers such awesome warrentys on ported engines.
)As far as 9k on a stock E-shaft....thats no big deal. There are some things you do to it, but nothing major. My 12a factory peripheral did'nt want to stay under 11k...and it held together until I lost a fan belt and drove around for 2 days without it. I did'nt even notice until the battery whent dead.
The had about 20-22k extremely hard street miles on it.Also, if you guys remember Billy burnam who ran a supercharged 3 rotor? He whent through the traps at around 9,500+ with his 3 rotor.
Later, CJ
07-01-02, 12:27 AM
#31
10.32 @ 133
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think its quite possible on a free rev, but under load? I don't think so!
When I was speaking to my engine builder about various things about my 10.32 pass, he said we should lift the rev limit to 11k for launching. On my 10.32 pass I launched on the rev limit which is set at 10500rpm...
When I was speaking to my engine builder about various things about my 10.32 pass, he said we should lift the rev limit to 11k for launching. On my 10.32 pass I launched on the rev limit which is set at 10500rpm...
07-01-02, 12:31 AM
#32
No, the motor did'nt hold together for 2 days at 11k. I meant, was the motor held together for about 2 days of freeway driving about 40 miles a day. It died when i had to do some stop and go traffic in Willsonville. The reason i knew that the fan belt was about two days before, the lights in the morning where dimmer than normal...but i thought that it was the alternator. Found out, after the battery whent dead, and the motor would'nt start hot. Ended up flattening every apex seal spring.
As for my different motors- 12a factory peripheral engine in a 81 Rx-7. SDS fuel injected 13B with a 150shot of nitrous in my 74 rotary truck. (sucked a bolt, and had to rebuild rear rotor, had to sell the injection to pay for it.) Stuck the 13B with a webber into a 1990 Rx-7. If you care to talk to Rob about any of my engines, feel free to ask him.
I don't know what type of port your running, but a factory peripheral should spin to 10k pretty easy. I'd try running 20*leading and 10* trailing if your timing is any different. Not to mention, what size of chokes/carb are you using? As for me, its allways been a 50mm throttle body, or a 51mm webber. With the webbers i've ran anywhere from a 42-44mm choke.
As far as E-shaft flex, what do you think about a balanced 86 rotating mass with a 23lb flywheel going through the traps at around 11k rpms in 3rd gear? Stock rotating mass. That was the 13B in the 90 Rx-7. Not to mention...on the street i ran several bottels of 150 shot through the engine. And countless 50-100hp. According to Rob, when you start making alot of power...its not flex, but actaully the rotor starts to tip toward the center of the engine. I'm shure with some engine builders E-shat flex could be an issue. But clearly Rob has found a way around it, to a point he does'nt have to worry about it.
As for a peripheral power band- My carberated engines allways idled around 2k. With my injection, Rob set it up to idle at around 1,500. The 12a, started pulling realy nicely at around 4k. When the motor would hit 7,500, it was like droping 75+hp right in your lap. The motor WOULD not stop pulling at 11k. The only reason i shifted it no higher than 11k, was Rob told me not to. This motor had alot of time and $$ into it. Far more than probably anyone else on this boards n/a engine. It had mazda factory peripheral port rotor housing. "D" port desings. Mazda competion race rotors. (They have the combustion chamber like the 13Bs.) They had over 2lbs shaved off of each rotor. It had a 7lb aluminum flywheel, 3 puck solid hub clutch, 2lbs shaved off the pressure plate, etc. etc. The motor would rev so fast, it would actually out rev the 11k rpms VDO tack. I'll admit that shaft flex was'nt a problem because of the lack of rotating mass. But it was the motor was desinged for serious street racing.
The 13Bs where alot more "tamer". They had alot more low end get up and go. The power band on them was'nt nearly so radical. But none the less between 7k-10k there was less than a 10hp difference. That motor put down 250rhwp at about 8,000rpms and 174lbs of max torque at 7250rpms. The dyno was at Toms Performance garage at one of rotoary powers dyno days.
All these engines where daily drivers for me. Some for 6 months, others for 2 years. If you don't beleive me, feel free to contact any of the older members at rotary power northwest, blake on this forum (who now runs my old 13B), or Rob Golden.
CJ
I meant, was the motor held together for about 2 days of freeway driving about 40 miles a day. It died when i had to do some stop and go traffic in Willsonville. The reason i knew that the fan belt was about two days before, the lights in the morning where dimmer than normal...but i thought that it was the alternator. Found out, after the battery whent dead, and the motor would'nt start hot. Ended up flattening every apex seal spring. As for my different motors- 12a factory peripheral engine in a 81 Rx-7. SDS fuel injected 13B with a 150shot of nitrous in my 74 rotary truck. (sucked a bolt, and had to rebuild rear rotor, had to sell the injection to pay for it.) Stuck the 13B with a webber into a 1990 Rx-7. If you care to talk to Rob about any of my engines, feel free to ask him.
I don't know what type of port your running, but a factory peripheral should spin to 10k pretty easy. I'd try running 20*leading and 10* trailing if your timing is any different. Not to mention, what size of chokes/carb are you using? As for me, its allways been a 50mm throttle body, or a 51mm webber. With the webbers i've ran anywhere from a 42-44mm choke.
As far as E-shaft flex, what do you think about a balanced 86 rotating mass with a 23lb flywheel going through the traps at around 11k rpms in 3rd gear? Stock rotating mass. That was the 13B in the 90 Rx-7.
Not to mention...on the street i ran several bottels of 150 shot through the engine. And countless 50-100hp. According to Rob, when you start making alot of power...its not flex, but actaully the rotor starts to tip toward the center of the engine. I'm shure with some engine builders E-shat flex could be an issue. But clearly Rob has found a way around it, to a point he does'nt have to worry about it.As for a peripheral power band- My carberated engines allways idled around 2k. With my injection, Rob set it up to idle at around 1,500. The 12a, started pulling realy nicely at around 4k. When the motor would hit 7,500, it was like droping 75+hp right in your lap. The motor WOULD not stop pulling at 11k. The only reason i shifted it no higher than 11k, was Rob told me not to. This motor had alot of time and $$ into it. Far more than probably anyone else on this boards n/a engine. It had mazda factory peripheral port rotor housing. "D" port desings. Mazda competion race rotors. (They have the combustion chamber like the 13Bs.) They had over 2lbs shaved off of each rotor. It had a 7lb aluminum flywheel, 3 puck solid hub clutch, 2lbs shaved off the pressure plate, etc. etc. The motor would rev so fast, it would actually out rev the 11k rpms VDO tack. I'll admit that shaft flex was'nt a problem because of the lack of rotating mass. But it was the motor was desinged for serious street racing.
The 13Bs where alot more "tamer". They had alot more low end get up and go. The power band on them was'nt nearly so radical. But none the less between 7k-10k there was less than a 10hp difference. That motor put down 250rhwp at about 8,000rpms and 174lbs of max torque at 7250rpms. The dyno was at Toms Performance garage at one of rotoary powers dyno days.
All these engines where daily drivers for me. Some for 6 months, others for 2 years. If you don't beleive me, feel free to contact any of the older members at rotary power northwest, blake on this forum (who now runs my old 13B), or Rob Golden.
CJ
07-01-02, 01:21 AM
#34
Apprentice Guru
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Cloud Nine and Peak of God
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
revs to 14 grand, perhaps he means over-revving will cost him 14 grand!
We have a truck driving around locally with a good slogan on the back.
Love was grand, divorce was 50 grand!
But seriously I put the question to my Brother, an exRX-7 owner who designs/makes rotor blades for guided missles and jet engines. His technical advice was that 12,000rpm is really pushing the design/material specifications even with a blueprinted race engine. Yes, a 14,000rpm engine was possible with exotic alloys but you would need an Indy budget and a permanent mechanic.
We have a truck driving around locally with a good slogan on the back.
Love was grand, divorce was 50 grand!
But seriously I put the question to my Brother, an exRX-7 owner who designs/makes rotor blades for guided missles and jet engines. His technical advice was that 12,000rpm is really pushing the design/material specifications even with a blueprinted race engine. Yes, a 14,000rpm engine was possible with exotic alloys but you would need an Indy budget and a permanent mechanic.
07-01-02, 01:28 AM
#35
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey thanks for clarifying that stuff for us cj. Any ways ya what you said about your power badn is basicaly what i have also. Currently i am still messing with my exhaust, i have had problems with the stock junk racing beat headers, i just dont think they are the right thing for our use, i am going to have a custom header made to my spec. What kind of header and exhaust do you guys run cj? I run mine on the street also, i have the pp12a in my 77 rx-3 right now so i am pretty light as it is.
As far as what i am using on my intake i am using the webber with 43 chokes in it. I will be honest with you, i just got this motor in and i am still doing a bunch of messing with it. I havent ran the car for a few weeks cus i am just going to wait until i get all my exhasut built befor i run it any more. i am using a set of custom housings that i did myself in order to obtain the pwr band that i wanted, and i like messing with my own port combos. Once i get my exhaust done though i will try and get a vid taken so i can get that up on here and every one can see just what these can do.
But once again thanks for clearing that all up. I do still think that the shaft flex is a big deal, but I do aggree that with a super light set of rotors and realy good balancing it can be remedied. But when you say ""But clearly Rob has found a way around it, to a point he does'nt have to worry about it."" i dont realy understand what your saying cus there isent raely a way around it at all. its just a fact. but i do aggree with the light stuff it can be minimized. I belaive you when you say that you have had this stuff, i visited with rob when i was down there last year and ya i know about the operation down there. What i dont get is people are always saying or implying that there is always this "top secret" stuff with certain engine builders, i just dont get it. I mean yes there is some stuff like angles and sizes location of ports etc. that info is kept by each builder, but beyond that the rest of the stuff is pretty much out on the table. These engines have been around for quite a while now and there has been extensive research on different mods done and most of us know what they are as far as internals and other little mods go. The real advantage why rob can offer such good qualoty is in my opinion is because he uses EVERYTHING brand new. and that is something that basicaly no other shops do. I mean i think if the other shops had the same standard as far as using new stuff i think they would have the same quality as Rob. Any ways this is jsut my opinion but hey thanks for sharing about your experience with the pp engines.
CJG
As far as what i am using on my intake i am using the webber with 43 chokes in it. I will be honest with you, i just got this motor in and i am still doing a bunch of messing with it. I havent ran the car for a few weeks cus i am just going to wait until i get all my exhasut built befor i run it any more. i am using a set of custom housings that i did myself in order to obtain the pwr band that i wanted, and i like messing with my own port combos. Once i get my exhaust done though i will try and get a vid taken so i can get that up on here and every one can see just what these can do.
But once again thanks for clearing that all up. I do still think that the shaft flex is a big deal, but I do aggree that with a super light set of rotors and realy good balancing it can be remedied. But when you say ""But clearly Rob has found a way around it, to a point he does'nt have to worry about it."" i dont realy understand what your saying cus there isent raely a way around it at all. its just a fact. but i do aggree with the light stuff it can be minimized. I belaive you when you say that you have had this stuff, i visited with rob when i was down there last year and ya i know about the operation down there. What i dont get is people are always saying or implying that there is always this "top secret" stuff with certain engine builders, i just dont get it. I mean yes there is some stuff like angles and sizes location of ports etc. that info is kept by each builder, but beyond that the rest of the stuff is pretty much out on the table. These engines have been around for quite a while now and there has been extensive research on different mods done and most of us know what they are as far as internals and other little mods go. The real advantage why rob can offer such good qualoty is in my opinion is because he uses EVERYTHING brand new. and that is something that basicaly no other shops do. I mean i think if the other shops had the same standard as far as using new stuff i think they would have the same quality as Rob. Any ways this is jsut my opinion but hey thanks for sharing about your experience with the pp engines.
CJG
07-01-02, 04:12 AM
#36
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Monterey Bay Area (Capitola) California
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who is this rob and does he have a website or something? I'm interested in his rebuilt rotaries. Although I'm not needing one soon enough that I would want to waste his time with a phone call or e-mail. I'd like to just browse. Anyone got a URL?
07-01-02, 08:14 AM
#38
For exaust, i used the racing beat peripheral port header, into two racing beat pre-silencers, then into two turbo walkers at the rear of the car. All exasut was 2" mandral bent. The exaust never collected. I have a buddy who is going to be running a "Pineapple Port" bridge port that will be shoot about a 150shot if nitrous, and he is using a dual 2.5" mandral bent exaust. He runs a Red Rx-3 down at woodburn.
I also have a buddy who runs a yellow Rx3-sp down at Woodburn who runs the same exaust that i use to. He ran a bunch of High 12s in it, last i heard.
Rob also used the same exaust on his yellow repu.
Hope this helps, CJ
I also have a buddy who runs a yellow Rx3-sp down at Woodburn who runs the same exaust that i use to. He ran a bunch of High 12s in it, last i heard.
Rob also used the same exaust on his yellow repu.
Hope this helps, CJ
07-01-02, 11:09 AM
#39
for you guys experimenting with your exhausts (rotortuner and pp13bnos) ...
i was thinking ... wouldn't an exhaust that funnels outward be the ideal design for a peripheral port? i mean, i've always been told that they were not really designed to get muffled much, but i'm thinking if you drive them on the street, then they HAVE to get muffled a bit.
so if the headers terminate into 2.0 inches, and you run the RB presilencers, how about gradually flaring out to 2.5 inches or so to help the scavenging ...
RB recommended a 4 inch muffler for peripheral ports, but i know that a muffler like that is really just there for decoration (and so you can say "hey man, look ... my muffler is right there! see????) and not much else.
but 2.5 inches should give you a decent balance between flow and actual muffling ...
i mean, like i said, i don't have any personal experiences with peripheral port motors, but i've helped a lot of people tune their cars for the street and track (bridge, street, peripheral, turbo - whatever)
it's just a thought ... what do you guys think?
i was thinking ... wouldn't an exhaust that funnels outward be the ideal design for a peripheral port? i mean, i've always been told that they were not really designed to get muffled much, but i'm thinking if you drive them on the street, then they HAVE to get muffled a bit.
so if the headers terminate into 2.0 inches, and you run the RB presilencers, how about gradually flaring out to 2.5 inches or so to help the scavenging ...
RB recommended a 4 inch muffler for peripheral ports, but i know that a muffler like that is really just there for decoration (and so you can say "hey man, look ... my muffler is right there! see????) and not much else.
but 2.5 inches should give you a decent balance between flow and actual muffling ...
i mean, like i said, i don't have any personal experiences with peripheral port motors, but i've helped a lot of people tune their cars for the street and track (bridge, street, peripheral, turbo - whatever)
it's just a thought ... what do you guys think?
07-01-02, 06:17 PM
#40
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well thats definetely a thought, and its fun to think about this stuff. The problem is, is that i wish i could try a lot of different kinds to experiment with. The axhaust that i am running right now is an old racing beat header which is the 2" id. I tried really long primaries like mid 90 inches or so. Befor that i tried uncollected. so far neither of those set ups have realy worked right. The set up now is the long primey tube one into a collector. I dident have the time or money to get or make the right collector so i just used one that was laying around nad its just a piece of junk, it like 2 1/4 inches and its WAY to restrictive. The motor like i said came in at about 4200 and ran hard for about 1500 more rpm then i think the exhaust wouldent flow it and it hits a wall there. Plus i havent really jetted it yet. Another problem is that i dont think the header is lined up perfectly onto the block and i think there is a about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch flat surface where the exhaust hits the header flange. So you think that my cause a problem? ya... So i next step is going to get a custom 2 and 1/2 inch header made into 3 inch collector. I have a friend down in CA that is running that set up and he realy likes it. his is a 13b with FI. He pushes 261 to the wheels. He has a friend that has a big big carb engine that is pp NA and he runs 300 to the wheels with a similar exhaust. I think the 2 inch headers are OK but to get realy serious and eliminate any chance of them robbing pwr i think its a fail safe to go to 2 and 1/2 and then the 3" collector should be good. I gues some of the big NA guys down in OZ are running 3 and 1/2 collectors but i am not sure that they are realy neccasery.
As for the muffler. with the set up i have on now which i am going to scrap, it uses a 39" long semi truck stack muffler. steel packed, and a bargain at $50. I guess the GT-3 guys who run these motors use large Tug boat mufflers. But that muffler worked pretty good but it is only a 2 and 1/2 so i am going to go and buy a 3 inch and call it good. I am going to have a shop in Auburn to my exhaust, the can do the whole thing in mandrel bends so thats good quality. This shop is actualy the people who make all the headers for TRD. So i have tried a few different set ups, and there are many more out there and there are probably a lot that work good but as i said before every one has there style. I am also going to experiment with my intake leangth once i get the exhaust done and i go to the dyno.
Back to that muffler i was using, even though it was designed for a diesel and its streight through, it realy helped. I ran the car just down streight pipes a couple times and it was realy bad, i mean loud is cool but i mean this was just not even fun after about 10 minutes once my ears started to bleed. ehehe. So once i got that muffler on it helped a bunch.
CJG
As for the muffler. with the set up i have on now which i am going to scrap, it uses a 39" long semi truck stack muffler. steel packed, and a bargain at $50. I guess the GT-3 guys who run these motors use large Tug boat mufflers. But that muffler worked pretty good but it is only a 2 and 1/2 so i am going to go and buy a 3 inch and call it good. I am going to have a shop in Auburn to my exhaust, the can do the whole thing in mandrel bends so thats good quality. This shop is actualy the people who make all the headers for TRD. So i have tried a few different set ups, and there are many more out there and there are probably a lot that work good but as i said before every one has there style. I am also going to experiment with my intake leangth once i get the exhaust done and i go to the dyno.
Back to that muffler i was using, even though it was designed for a diesel and its streight through, it realy helped. I ran the car just down streight pipes a couple times and it was realy bad, i mean loud is cool but i mean this was just not even fun after about 10 minutes once my ears started to bleed. ehehe. So once i got that muffler on it helped a bunch.
CJG
07-01-02, 06:48 PM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: forest city nc
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it,s me
i,m the guy that turned his first gen 14 grand let me clarify accodding to autometer tach and snap on timing light my j-bridge 12a reached 14 after holding it about 25 seconds . no it would never do this under a load 11 is pushing it yes i am crazy i didnt care if it blew all to hell i just wanted to know how far it would go
07-01-02, 08:19 PM
#42
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So are you still using that motor or did it go shot? I think people realy underestimate just how high the pwr band can be on a bridge, I think they have all the potential that a pp has as far as the high revability.
CJG
CJG
07-02-02, 12:50 AM
#44
Originally posted by Rotortuner
I am going to have a shop in Auburn to my exhaust, the can do the whole thing in mandrel bends so thats good quality. This shop is actualy the people who make all the headers for TRD.
CJG
I am going to have a shop in Auburn to my exhaust, the can do the whole thing in mandrel bends so thats good quality. This shop is actualy the people who make all the headers for TRD.
CJG
BTW, do you have an address or website for that shop in Auburn? i'm interested in seeing if i can get some headers built for my MR2 Turbo and since you said they work with TRD i thought they would be a great place to start ...
thanks
07-02-02, 01:10 AM
#45
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ya i can hook you up with a number. doesent the TRD website sell headers for your mr2? Any ways i will PM you the name and number. However i am not sure about other cars but i think they prefer to have the car in possesion in able to fit it, but mabe thats only with the stuff they do thats realy custom kinda like my application. I have heard that this shop is like the best so thats why i am going to just shell out the bucks.
CJG
CJG
07-02-02, 01:57 AM
#46
thanks ...
no, TRD doesn't make a header for the MR2 Turbo, just the NA (at least, if they do, they don't sell them here) and i want a header/manifold made for my stock turbo as long it's not going to be toooooo much. i guess it will suck if they need to have the car there, but i'd still like to get their number or something (i'll check the pm-thing as soon as i figure out how ... never used it before)
i have a few friends in seattle (i used to live there) and they might be able to scrounge up a car for me if necessary.
thanks again.
no, TRD doesn't make a header for the MR2 Turbo, just the NA (at least, if they do, they don't sell them here) and i want a header/manifold made for my stock turbo as long it's not going to be toooooo much. i guess it will suck if they need to have the car there, but i'd still like to get their number or something (i'll check the pm-thing as soon as i figure out how ... never used it before)
i have a few friends in seattle (i used to live there) and they might be able to scrounge up a car for me if necessary.
thanks again.
07-02-02, 04:22 AM
#47
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally posted by AJC13B
I think its quite possible on a free rev, but under load? I don't think so!
When I was speaking to my engine builder about various things about my 10.32 pass, he said we should lift the rev limit to 11k for launching. On my 10.32 pass I launched on the rev limit which is set at 10500rpm...
I think its quite possible on a free rev, but under load? I don't think so!
When I was speaking to my engine builder about various things about my 10.32 pass, he said we should lift the rev limit to 11k for launching. On my 10.32 pass I launched on the rev limit which is set at 10500rpm...
I will tell you now, unless he race clearanced your rotors, your engine will very likley disassemble itself very soon if you keep that up.
That is the most ridiculous thing I have herd in a while bro, I herd your car and it sounded like you were reving to around 8000rpm???
That rpm is plain stupid for an engine without hardened stationary gears, snap ringed rotors and proper clearances, I think you will find when it comes apart that there will be shinny spots on the rotor faces near the ends of the combustion pockets and at the tips on the sides of the rotors.
Are you sure Bill is not a leb?? lol..... That is the kind of wierd **** they get up to in Lebanon
PS I feel your engines pain..poor little engine
07-02-02, 04:41 AM
#48
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
As far as I am concerned EVERYTHING pretty much in this thread is plain bullshit !
Show me a dyno graph. logging rpm and the power/torque curve and then I will believe you !
I owned PP's for over 5 years, big dollar engines, the best of everything, and I am no monkey in tunning it either, and I will tell you now it produces very little usable power above 10500rpm in 13B form, sure you can rev the **** to 25000rpm if you wish, but you will cause engine damadge.
Any talk of over 11000rpm is plain bullshit, as I have never seen nor heard of any engine in 13B form delivering near peak power in this range. NEVER.
No one wants to know there sectrets on how they do it or build it, just show us a graph, any graph....I am sure we would have seen one if it exists as this claim of "real power" (not just holding the revs to see what happens)over 11000k is so unreal that it defies belief let alone 12, 13, 14 or ******* 15000rpm!!!. When I see it I will gladly admit that I know nothing about rotary engines and go buy a CHEV !
Show me a dyno graph. logging rpm and the power/torque curve and then I will believe you !
I owned PP's for over 5 years, big dollar engines, the best of everything, and I am no monkey in tunning it either, and I will tell you now it produces very little usable power above 10500rpm in 13B form, sure you can rev the **** to 25000rpm if you wish, but you will cause engine damadge.
Any talk of over 11000rpm is plain bullshit, as I have never seen nor heard of any engine in 13B form delivering near peak power in this range. NEVER.
No one wants to know there sectrets on how they do it or build it, just show us a graph, any graph....I am sure we would have seen one if it exists as this claim of "real power" (not just holding the revs to see what happens)over 11000k is so unreal that it defies belief let alone 12, 13, 14 or ******* 15000rpm!!!. When I see it I will gladly admit that I know nothing about rotary engines and go buy a CHEV !
07-02-02, 12:49 PM
#50
Undercover
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Man i mostly aggree with you. That is why i called pp13bnos on it. When he started saying his old pp12aa quote" dident like to go below 11k", i was like ya nice try, that would be like your absolute redlin on that bad boy. I do know an old guy that used to build some wild stufff and he said he made some bridges that would turn up into teh high 11k range and would hold good pwr up that far. But from my personal experience and what i gather from people with a crap load of experience i say that the pp motors realy are like a 10k motor. My pp12a is not balanced or lightened or anything so i dont turn more than 9k through it for fear of started to contact the housing so hard. But yes, PP13bnos i dont doubt you havent actualy owned this stuff but COME ON lets see the graph. you cant tell me you spen mucho dollar and never went and spend a 100 bucks to get it dyno. If you cant back it up with a dyno graph then dont talk about it if its barely beliviable. we call the people that do that HONDA people...
CJG
CJG
Originally posted by RICE RACING
As far as I am concerned EVERYTHING pretty much in this thread is plain bullshit !
Show me a dyno graph. logging rpm and the power/torque curve and then I will believe you !
I owned PP's for over 5 years, big dollar engines, the best of everything, and I am no monkey in tunning it either, and I will tell you now it produces very little usable power above 10500rpm in 13B form, sure you can rev the **** to 25000rpm if you wish, but you will cause engine damadge.
Any talk of over 11000rpm is plain bullshit, as I have never seen nor heard of any engine in 13B form delivering near peak power in this range. NEVER.
No one wants to know there sectrets on how they do it or build it, just show us a graph, any graph....I am sure we would have seen one if it exists as this claim of "real power" (not just holding the revs to see what happens)over 11000k is so unreal that it defies belief let alone 12, 13, 14 or ******* 15000rpm!!!. When I see it I will gladly admit that I know nothing about rotary engines and go buy a CHEV !
As far as I am concerned EVERYTHING pretty much in this thread is plain bullshit !
Show me a dyno graph. logging rpm and the power/torque curve and then I will believe you !
I owned PP's for over 5 years, big dollar engines, the best of everything, and I am no monkey in tunning it either, and I will tell you now it produces very little usable power above 10500rpm in 13B form, sure you can rev the **** to 25000rpm if you wish, but you will cause engine damadge.
Any talk of over 11000rpm is plain bullshit, as I have never seen nor heard of any engine in 13B form delivering near peak power in this range. NEVER.
No one wants to know there sectrets on how they do it or build it, just show us a graph, any graph....I am sure we would have seen one if it exists as this claim of "real power" (not just holding the revs to see what happens)over 11000k is so unreal that it defies belief let alone 12, 13, 14 or ******* 15000rpm!!!. When I see it I will gladly admit that I know nothing about rotary engines and go buy a CHEV !