can i do this with a simple bolt up? If not could you weld the turbo manifold to the engine. Then i could use a performance exhaust from 2nd gen. Do you think something like this would work or could work? thanks

 

no responses? ive read many times around this site that you can take a tII manifold and notch out the bolt holes to make it fit the 12a pattern. and as for welding strait to the block...HELL NO, how will you ever rebuild the motor if something breaks inside????

 

fitting up the 13bt manifold is actually pretty easy. find a 13bt exhaust manifold, buy a 12a gasket, match up the 12a gasket to the 13bt manifold, and start drilling. takes awhile, and its hard as hell to drill through the manifold, but you'll get there. you'll probably need to space the turbo out from the engine a bit, so go ahead and buy 2 12a header flanges from racing beat, and weld them together. if you need to space out the manifold, you'll have to lengthen the exhaust stubs. pull out the old ones, buy 70mm M10 - 1.5(i think), then chop the heads off, and screw them, in. you should be set

 

Or just buy a 12a flange, 13b flange, and go to an exhaust/welder and tell them you want 2" between gaskets and he will weld you a tube per exhaust. If you do it this way the TII turbo will not hit against the intake manifold/nikki.

 

Couldn't have said it any better.

 

Never seen it done, But aren't the turbo&engine flanges on the 13bt manifold symmetrical?

Couldn't you just flip ts 13bT manifold so the turbo flange opening points down instead of up? There is a ton of room under and on the side of my 12a. Then you wouldn't need spacers etc....

The rear turbo housing would just need to be rotated 180*?

Or even have the exhaust portion of the turbo pointing forward leaving more room for a large DP?

Just an idea if somone has a few spare parts laying around. May not fit at all...

Good info and pics here....

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo4.htm

 

Not sure if the oil will drain from the turbo setting that low. Might be something to look out for. I wouln't take the welding job to an exhaust shop. Take it to a pipefitter or regular metal fab shop. The tubing needs to 2" schedule 40 mild steel pipe or heavier. Exhaust pipe won't hold up, unless it's the right grade of stainless steel. Even some of the tubular SS turbo headers have cracking problems due to heat, thermal expansion stress.

 

subbed

 

Subscribing to a thread that hasn't updated in 3 1/3 years is probably not going to help you much.

 

noone here has heard of google? tweakit makes an adapter plate that bolts us. 13bt 4 port adapter to bolt up the lower to a 12a motor.

 

Um...Tweakit closed shop back in May....

 

this makes no sense to me, unless you can cut your subframe for the turbo and have the downpipe dragging on the concrete as well as having your exhaust come out of the front of the car and the intake dragging *** behind the motor. oil drain? foget about it! real men drain their turbo oil onto the ground!

anyways, the 13B engine is LONGER than the 12A, it is not much which is why people mention simply notching the manifolds which works but is kind of ghetto. cut the flange off, extend it and weld it to a 12A flange, done.

 

I like the idea of cutting the manifold. But too what advantage? If you're gonna go that far it isn't that hard to weld a "custom" manifold. RB sells lazer cut flanges and ebay sells T3/T4 flanges.



But this is a real old OP and I'm sure this guy has already thrown the idea away.


Also, I like how the OP was gonna weld the steel/iron (whateva) exhaust to the cast Al rotor housings.... Good luck with that one.

 

Yea that's what I'm doing, ordering a 12a rb flange, and making my own manifold, welding a t3t4 flange so I can run whatever turbo I want. Which opens the doors for upgrades later since most trash the stocker anyways.

 

I plan on doing the RB flange route if I ever have an extra couple of dollars and a spare 13B. Then I'll just TIG a box for my carb to sit inside.

I know a local with a few turbo rotors.