^you could always ask Japan2LA here on the forums

 

Can the stock twins fit? or would one have to go single turbo?

 

Twins should fit. Japan2LA is a good resourse.

 

I've got an FB that's getting a RE swap, and it came with an FD transmission. Is there any documentation on doing this anywhere? I've gathered the TII transmission is an easier fit, but I'd rather use the transmission I've already got if possible.

 

I'm not familiar with the FD transmission, but if the tail housing from an FB transmission can be swapped, and if you shorten the gear selector rod, I would imagine it could fit.

 

That's the first thing I thought of, but the tail housings don't appear to be interchangeable. That would be awesome if it was as simple as that.

 

Sorry for pointing out the obvious, I just wanted to do something to help.

I went out to the garage and did some quick measurements. The length of my S4 TII transmission (with FB tailshaft) from bell housing to the end of the shift control box is ~33 1/4" (it's ~32 1/2" to the center of the shifter location). From the end of the shift control box to the bottom mounting point is ~11.5". So just filling in the blanks here, that means that the distance between the bell housing and the transmission mounting point is ~21.75". I didn't use any exact science, just a tape measure, but I did make sure that I wasn't measuring a slope or anything like that.

I would measure your FD transmission in similar locations just to ballpark what you'll have to do to make it fit.

I hope that helps!

 

I will upload some pictures soon. I have also done a 13b-rew into a SA22C Series 2 RX7.

I have done the conversion a little differently to the guys in the states by using the 12a front cover which creates a much cleaner and more efficient engine and space to work with. I am using a Series 5 FC Turbo box, 3” tail shaft and Toyota hilux rear end. For the induction I am using a custom built T04Z and it is managed by a Microtech ecu with bosch coils.

If you have any questions, just ask.

 

That really does, I appreciate you helping me out. I'll take some measurements tomorrow if I remember.

 

Could you post more pictures of your intercooler/radiator setup, please? I'm interested in seeing how this was done.

 

First of all, thanks for taking the time to write this up, it provided many awesome insights into the project I am/will be taking on.
I know you said you couldn't comment on a solution as you never ran stock twins, but can you or anyone else suggest anything whatsoever? Just curious, thanks, and sorry for waking this up from a few months ago, but it was intended to be an ongoing thing, so

 

Glad that it helped.

I would think your problem could be tackled a few different ways. Personally I would run all new lines. It has been 3 years since I looked at the underside of the twins but I beleive that the stock drain lines use banjo fittings(someone correct me if I am wrong). There are a lot of shops that can create new banjo lines for you. Make sure that one end has a fitting.

I used a similar method at first. My single turbo drain travelled to the rear of the block via a stainless braided line.

Basically you will take the stock hard drain line and cut the end off. This will give you the portion that connects to the block. Now take a AN fitting that is the same size as your drain line. Cut the end off the AN fitting and weld it to your new flange.

Pretty simple process, but I know everyone likes pictures.

 

I need some help with wiring.. I have the stock 13b cosmo engine in the back of my vw bug, everything is hooked up for the most part. But, i do not know how to wire the darn thing. The stock ecu and cosmo harness I have, but I am not sure where to add positive power to turn the ecu on etc. And i cannot find a cosmo pin out of the ecu. I just want the darn thing to turn on and run, nothing fancy. Can you direct me in how to get the stock ecu to turn my engine over? thanks. any help is greatly appreciated!

 

I have a Turbo II trans, but my rear mount setup is a little different. I used the T2 rear mount. Since the T2 mount has two mounting holes on each end, I added a new hole between each of the original holes and bolted up to the underside of my FB. It gets interesting since I have a trilink setup and I can adjust the rear pinion angle. I set the trans angle and pinion angle equal, but I still get vibration under certain conditions.

I'm considering just copying what you did and starting over. What's the key to avoiding vibration? . . . and yes, my driveshaft is balanced.

 

Thanks so much for the time you spent on this, it's a great help. I just found the motor i'm swapping out but i have a couple questions, seems like no one is using the stock turbos, what are you using instead, and what are the benefits? Also ive been trying to find the S5 TII tranny but i'm having trouble locating it, do you happen to have the part #? THanks

 

Did you have any problems getting any of the stock guages to work or was it all pretty much plug and play?

I am asking because I am thinking of putting a rew motor in a rx-4

 

have you guys thought of just using the fb tranny for the time being? i know its not going to hold alot of power but just a thought, if you were just wanting to do the t2 tranny swap later just to drive n have fun with the 13 brew swap? it would be easy then right cause u just drop in the rew and bolt up the fb tranny and your done.

 

Yep. A simple flywheel swap is all you gotta do. Either S5 NA (if you like 21 pounds) or a light aftermarket with the right S5/S6 rear counterweight. They're the same weight.

 

Along the same lines..
How about utilizing the entire rew
engine complete, and altering the
rear crossmember to accomidate the rew
mounting position?
From what Ive attempted, the FD OEM
mount plates (legs) or rubber mounts
wont work.. Does anyone know if there
are after market rew motor mount legs available?

 

Will the FC CAS work with the stock FD ECU?

 

Bump

 

and again...

 

In my search, I have not seen this mentioned ever so I would say no, it will not work. If somebody figured out how to though, I would think it would have been documented.

 

My thoughts exactly but I figured I would ask to make sure

 

Is there a way to use the stock 13brew CAS when switching to a 12a cover? I swear I read somewhere someone who had done it but after reading thru many many threads Ive lost which one..

I just bought oil pan, cover and engine bracket to install my 13brew that I picked up into my 85 gslse..

Hoping I dont need to many more add ons just to get this thing in.. Haha or I should say the missus is hoping...