1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

13B Eccentric Shaft Nut Wont Come OFF!

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 08:14 PM
  #1  
drozhenbane's Avatar
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13B Eccentric Shaft Nut Wont Come OFF!

Ok so Im putting in a base Fuel Injected second gen 13B into my 1st gen, and I notice that of course it doesnt mount the same way as my 12A. Don told me that all you gotta do is swap the front covers over. So I am in the process of removing the front cover. Well luck would off course have it that the damn nut wont come OFF!

Is it a reverse thread or something?(I cant get it to budge either way)
My nut removing procedure so far has been to block the flywheel from moving, and whack the living tar out of my breaker bar with a 26 ounce framing hammer! I have tried penetrating oil, wd40, rust away......Then WHACK SOME MORE! Its not moving, so I consult the all mighty repair manual. One lousy picture of the nut after it has been removed, and a short sentence on removal. So I whip out my inpact driver (not air) its a manual one you whack with a hammer. Still nothing.....AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

Am I missing something?

On to the next task. I stripped all the Fuel Injection stuff Off. And out of frustration I started to fabricate my new intake for the weber.

Does anyone need a crank angle sensor? Im pretty sure I can stick a 12A Dizzy in there and get it to run.....I think.........not sure...........
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 08:19 PM
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Those things are an absolute BITCH to take off. They are normal threads, so take it off counter-clockwise. I think last I heard someone was using a 3/4" air powered impact.

Yes, a 12A dizzy should drop right in. Just make sure the dizzy and engine are at TDC.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 08:40 PM
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Yes, a 12A dizzy should drop right in. Just make sure the dizzy and engine are at TDC.
Yeah you only make that mistake once......Or so ive heard.....I mean I of course would never do something so simple and spend hundreds of dollars just to figure out that I had a brain fart.......
My nieghbor has an air impact wrench and we are gonna give it a whirl tommarrow and see how it goes.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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I think you're talking about the bolt in the front pulley , since you're talking about swapping the front cover, right? If that's the case, it should come right out. I think it's only torqued to 75 ft. lbs. An air impact should do it easily. Somebody must have smothered the threads with thread locking compound or something.

Rich
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:05 PM
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Its rusted something terrible.........Im waiting overnight for the penetrating oil to really sink in....and then let the air impact wrench handle it.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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i use a 19mm deep socket, breaker bar, and a 4 foot lead pipe cheater bar slid over it.

PB B'laster is great penetrating oil, 5x better than wd40. the real deal is boeshield.com, best i ever used.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:32 AM
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i had to beat on mine with a 1/2" impact driver, then break 3 ratchets and bust 3 knuckles to get it off... halted my swap for 2 days... you swappin oil pans too right?
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 04:34 AM
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They are installed, from the factory, with the equivilant of red locktite. With my 1/2" impact gun and 120 psi, the flywheel nut would beark loose first.

Penetrant will help with the rust, but not the thread sealer. Heat the bolt head up with a propane torch, that will break the bond.

I had a TII I was trying to tear down, ended up taking it to a friend that worked at the Ford dealership. He put a 3/4" impact gun on it and still struggled. Heat will do it.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 07:26 AM
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... you swappin oil pans too right?

Yep
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