1/2 BRIDGEPORT STILL WONT START! (close to giving up, help me please)
#26
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Originally Posted by 13btnos
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~onec...-%20part%20one easiest way to find TDC. Also do you remember which way the you put the timing gear on? Most don't pay attention to this piece and think it can go any which way but actually it has a bevel on one side and flat on the other side. The beveled side goes towards your engine and will affect your timing if put on incorrectly. If no vaccum leaks and have fuel & spark and good compression then it's a timing issue. Good thing to do to check for leaks is get the motor running and grab a can of carb spray and spray it anywhere you think it may have a leak. The idle will change/fluctuate if you spray where there is a leak. Good luck. Oh a comment on you ports nothing wrong with your ports, timing wise, but hopefully you cleaned them up more than you did in those photos. And also hope you beveled the top/closing of the exhaust port if not your apex seals are going to smack it.
#27
Adolf Hitler Verfechter
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You should really wait for the jets to arrive.
a ported 12A is much more finicy when it comes to idle mixture than a 13B.From my expereriance :When a 13B is close to correctly jetted,it will start.a 12a needs to be much more presicely jetted (this is because of the extra capacity per rotor bath tub that the 13B has)
You allso need to spin the motor at a high speed,to overcome the overlap caused by the bridged secondary ports.Make sure you battery,cables and starter are in tip top condition.
I had the same situation with my Bp some years ago.It would not start,without putting oil down the carb barrels.Jetting it richer ,and a overhauled starter solved my problem.I was allso on the brink of giving up,and then had a break through with the jetting.
Take some time off,fix other things that might need attention.
karis
a ported 12A is much more finicy when it comes to idle mixture than a 13B.From my expereriance :When a 13B is close to correctly jetted,it will start.a 12a needs to be much more presicely jetted (this is because of the extra capacity per rotor bath tub that the 13B has)
You allso need to spin the motor at a high speed,to overcome the overlap caused by the bridged secondary ports.Make sure you battery,cables and starter are in tip top condition.
I had the same situation with my Bp some years ago.It would not start,without putting oil down the carb barrels.Jetting it richer ,and a overhauled starter solved my problem.I was allso on the brink of giving up,and then had a break through with the jetting.
Take some time off,fix other things that might need attention.
karis
Last edited by karism; 05-18-05 at 02:40 AM.
#30
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
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I had to bump up my idle fuel jets on the 12a jbridge from 80 (which is what it wanted on streetport) to 90.
If you really want it to run for an hour, at a higher than idle rpm, I wedge something onto the throttle rod on the carb, trying to hold it open. Like a small nut or something. Do *not* put a brick on the gas pedal, as if it slips forward it can redline the motor.
I agree with Wacky, it should idle on it's own rough or not. Try unscrewing the idle fuel mixture screw more? Have you called racing beat to get their holley jetting reccomendations?
If you really want it to run for an hour, at a higher than idle rpm, I wedge something onto the throttle rod on the carb, trying to hold it open. Like a small nut or something. Do *not* put a brick on the gas pedal, as if it slips forward it can redline the motor.
I agree with Wacky, it should idle on it's own rough or not. Try unscrewing the idle fuel mixture screw more? Have you called racing beat to get their holley jetting reccomendations?
#31
boost my 7
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Originally Posted by DriveFast7
I had to bump up my idle fuel jets on the 12a jbridge from 80 (which is what it wanted on streetport) to 90.
If you really want it to run for an hour, at a higher than idle rpm, I wedge something onto the throttle rod on the carb, trying to hold it open. Like a small nut or something. Do *not* put a brick on the gas pedal, as if it slips forward it can redline the motor.
I agree with Wacky, it should idle on it's own rough or not. Try unscrewing the idle fuel mixture screw more? Have you called racing beat to get their holley jetting reccomendations?
If you really want it to run for an hour, at a higher than idle rpm, I wedge something onto the throttle rod on the carb, trying to hold it open. Like a small nut or something. Do *not* put a brick on the gas pedal, as if it slips forward it can redline the motor.
I agree with Wacky, it should idle on it's own rough or not. Try unscrewing the idle fuel mixture screw more? Have you called racing beat to get their holley jetting reccomendations?
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