Winndixie managerman

I drive a 85 with 187k on it and the motor runs fine. The problem is that it won't start and I can't figure out why. The wires are good, the starter is brand new and the battery is brand new. I am pretty sure the ignition switch is okay but when you turn the key all you hear is the solonoid engaging and kicking the starter gear to me up with the flywheel. Anyone have any suggestions???

Tech_Greek

Personally,

The whole gizmo on the left hand side of the wheel is what does it for me, I have to hold down a sweet spot (which is random) and it will start but if I dont I could turn the key all day and nothing happen...it's a good anti-theft measure I guess but the cops always ask me if I stole the car!

- Tech

Winndixie managerman

If you are referring to the security device, I only have a plate cover there, no wiring. The car started fine for over a year when I replaced the starter intially then it began to crap out. I am about at my wit's end because this is my primary transportation and I am really tired of roll starting.

Tech_Greek

let me take a picture for you...

cdrad51

Oh ok do if you push start it, it starts? that could be indicative of low compression.

Winndixie managerman

Yup, it roll starts like a champ but the starter motor will not turn over for the life of me. I thought that I had it fixed for awhile, then it started to act up again. I am wondering if the flywheel teeth are ground out or something.....

cdrad51

Oh sorry, didn't completely read your first post. The starter isn't turning. Ok. That's different. Are you totally sure the connections are good?

Winndixie managerman

to the best of my ability yes. The battery terminals are brand new and are very snug. The postitive cable has been relplaced and all connections are very snug at the starter end. As far as me and my dad can tell the grounds are all okay, but I might go back and try to file them clean. The thing that gets me is that the car started fine for a loooooooooong time after I got it then recently it has been pure hell to make it start from a stationary position.

hammmy

http://www.jimrothe.com/mazda/battery_cables.html

Replacing the negative cable would be a good idea. You said you can hear the solenoid engage; then what happens? Clicking?

Winndixie managerman

Pretty much. Click, click, click... i hear in my dreams...

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Wont help much but check the fuseable links also.
I would replace both the positive and neg battery cables. also buy an extra neg cable and go from the motor to the frame some where else for extra grounding.

hammmy

Replacing the negative/ground cable, and adding another ground point (as suggested on the page I linked earlier) fixed this same problem for me.

It's a cheap fix, too.

Winndixie managerman

which is...

hammmy

Fusible links are long-duration fuses that are behind your battery, mounted on the strut tower. These are known to often cause problems with the electrical system, such as headlights not working. Fusible link replacements are hard to source; most often replacements are gathered from junkyards. Be careful handling these if you decide to check them.

hammmy

My best guess is that the negative/ground cable is corroded internally, which is allowing voltage to be present across the starter terminals but is not allowing enough current through to spin the starter motor: hence, the clicking you're hearing.

Winndixie managerman

my only problem with that is why so sudden? The starter worked reliably up to two weeks prior.

hammmy

All breakdowns occur at some point in time.

Winndixie managerman

my second problem with that is that all my other electrical systems still work fine and my new sylvania headlamps burn bright. If the cable is bad, wouldn't these be dimming or or cutting out completely?

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Also have the starter tested. It is possible it is going out.

hammmy

Not necessarily. The cable is still allowing enough current to pass to feed those less-hungry systems just fine. There's a reason automotive batteries are rated by "cold cranking amps". That's because the starter pulls a huge amount of current (amps).

Winndixie managerman

starter should be fine. I bought it less than a week ago from autozone. It's a Duralast.

Anex 570

Fix your goddamn negative cables and terminals, and also check the positive cable terminal. If that doesnt work return that POS back to autozone and goto advanced autoparts.

Winndixie managerman

Won't be the positive battery cable, replaced it last night after it got into a fight with on of my belts.

cdrad51

Hit the starter with a bigger hammer.

Winndixie managerman

worked for about a week until my old starter completly died and I had to buy a new one.