Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Seems Flex-a-lite paid attention. Finally there is a variable fan speed controller - and it works with any existing Electric Fan.

It works just like there regular thermostat control switch, but will vary between 60-100% efficiency (speed) as the engine needs it.

No more needing a two or three speed fan switch to get the same effect.

From the .Flex-A-Lite website.


Just thought I'd share...

The_7

thats cool, im planning on installing an electric fan soon, and thats gonna go with it

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I wouldve bought one, but I dont have an electric fan anymore...Technically I dont even have a radiator, lol.

~T.J.

Matty's first 1st Gen

I had an electric fan, but i didn't like the one i had, Is it a good idea to put the electric fan infront of the rad, and the mechanical fan behind it, and just turn on the electric fan when ever it is needed, or sould it just block air flow?

gamble302

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...51&prmenbr=361
yipes almost 80 bucks, oh well maybe it wont break like the POS 30 dollar one they sell at jegs

Spinner-D(eluxe)

It is unnecessary to have 2 fans. If you get the Flex-a-Lite Black Magic Part No. 150 you will have plenty of cooling power, and you put the fan behind the radiator, because when on the track at speed enough airflow is going through the radiator so the fan doesn't need to be at full speed, or even on.

Here is my new electric fan mounted on my radiator...

aGoGo

I think I can build that thing easily, just need to read more about it and do a little thinking, I'd say the cost of it would be about $10~20.

I always wonder how an ECU module works too, someone can tell me? Possible to code an Microcontroller (Say, PIC18) to do the same job?

hornbm

nie job, I just got my black magic electric fan and it bothers me how its either on or off. Nothing in between.

Kerry

aGoGo
I'm in the process of designing one around a PIC. I'd also like to tie it to A/C pressure if I can find a transducer. I started to do it analog, but that turned into a monstrosity.

If it weren't for the A/C, I'd just buy one and save the aggravation! I didn't know these were available til now.

Kerry

aGoGo

HaHa~, Cool. Analog design is some what an art, that's why digital stuff takes many area over due to its simplicity and consistency. Again, I don't know much about cars and curious to know about ECU, keep me posted about your project sounds really cool. If you can tell me some about your objective and functionality of your design that would be great.

tmiked

Kerry,
You could plumb a pressure switch into the HP AC Line.
I assume you want it to come on at some slight overpressure before the existing HP switch cuts off the compressor.
You could just wire it to the compressor clutch line, then it would be on whenever the AC is on.

Directfreak,
You should repost this or get this thread moved to general. This would be of interest to 2nd and 3rd gen owners too.

phinsn98

iTrader: (2)

Direct just to let you know Edgar at Mazda Pros is also doing a Cosmo conversion on his GSL-SE. He is using a BMW 7 series electric fan mounted in the factory shroud. It looks super clean. THe fan is a two speed fan that is setup to change speed when the AC comes on. You should give him a call and check out what he's doing you might get some interesting ideas. He's making it look like an OEM installation. He's got some great ideas.

late

Kerry

My idea is to monitor AC head pressure and radiator outlet temp, then PWM a Solid-State relay to give an appropriate amount of airflow. The PWM'd ssr works great, I just need to find a transducer for the AC and get off my butt and do it.

Kerry

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Is just sticking a temp probe in the radiator fins effective temperature sensing? I'd think a hole needs to be tapped into an end tank and a sensor screwed directly into the coolant...

Not for A/C - Fan control, but for Fan control based on coolant temp.

tmiked

You can stick a probe in the fins, but you need to dab a little rtv around to keep air flow off of it. I just strapped mine to the metal radiatior hose connection with a small piece of rubber over it to protect it and provide a little temperature insulation.

Todd Staples

I am interested in converting to electric fan. Is there a tutitorial on a thread that lists the fan, materials and parts needed. I plan on keeping my A/C.
Thanks,
Todd

1985rx7

Same here except I don't have or want a/c.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/150.pdf

Sk8r_dude

its not new tho...

OriGiNaL TyPe R

iTrader: (2)

i got a electric fan form a friend of mines...don't know what type of car it came off of but he stated that it should be plenty cooling power. the stock fan made to much noise ...since the conversion, the car seems to repond a little better.and is staying cool..along with the 4 holes i drilled in the top part of my air box..why would you want to change the speeds of the fan?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

This thread is pretty old..

To use less draw on your electrical system. A little fan power, on earlier, will keep the whole system from getting hot enough on "high" in the first place. It makes less noise, and the whole thing is more of a transparent background operation.

As I posted elsewhere:

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...cessories.html

Part# 31165-VSC
Attaches to or near the electric engine-cooling fan. Senses coolant temp. via the radiator core and sets fan speed from 60% to 100%, depending on built-in fan thermostat setting. Thermostat range: 155 - 220 degrees Fahrenheit. Allows greater control over engine temp: reduces charging spikes and current load on charging system. 25 amp max. load. Directs fan to run for 30 seconds after vehicle is turned off.

My fans:

1) won't turn on when cranking the engine (not using battery power)
2) will run at 60% speed at 155 degrees (or whatever I set them for)
3) will run at 100% speed, ten degrees higher than my pre-set (#2)
4) will run at 60% speed (minimum) when the A/C is turned on
5) will run for 30 seconds at 60% speed after the car is shut off to really cool down the engine fast.
6) the probe goes through the radiator fins, not into a hose - so no leaks.
7) allows for an override too either keep them full on (like in a staging lane) or full off (like going down the strip.)

It is a better system than most OEM's. I will likely keep in exactly the same, even after putting the Haltech back in.

My engine never exceeds 160 degrees - even in Hot Miami, Florida traffic.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Missed this one entirely the first time around...thanks to whoever pulled it out, I'm adding it to my order from Summit Monday...

Manntis

back from the dead since I'm considering an E-fan.

MosesX605

Bring out yer dead!

Actually, thanks for the bump D'arcy. I think I may go with an E-fan myself. The battlewagon was getting hot between runs last year at Super Slalom.

Manntis

If ya do, and use an S4 or S5 slanted rad, we can have the mounting tabs machined at the same time for a better price.