What did you do to your FB today?
06-23-12, 02:21 PM
#876
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Augusta, Ga.
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I picked up MSD 6AL for $75. I ordered a -6an fuel log for the double pumper, all of the -10an fittings needed to run braided stainless lines for the oil system and turbo drain, and a billet sandwich plate for the oil pedestal.
06-24-12, 10:05 PM
#881
n00b
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kissimmee, FL
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hosed the rain filth and road grime off and filled it up with fuel.. headed to the beach tomorrow if the tropical storm stays away. I'd actually wash it if I thought it would stay clean for a while but with this rain it won't even last one trip out of the garage.
06-25-12, 06:33 AM
#883
死*神*
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Delaware
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
got her to run finally. then the injector orings started leaking, sooooooooo. Wednesday my new orings arrive. I alos pulled the rear diff out and loaded ready to go to shop for repair work. After that some wiring mess and $$$$$$ for a brake guy
06-25-12, 11:39 AM
#884
So I came home today from school (took the daily driver) and I pulled up behind "The Mazda" and noticed that the front passenger side was low and it looked like a oil puddle had formed around the wheel (quick glance). Well I jumped out of the Corolla and ran over to find that the front right tire was completely flat, as in totally gone. Super scary thing was there was no nail in the tire and that one of the cracks in the tire finally split causing air to rapidly come out of the tire, but what got me was I took her out on the highway yesterday and they decided to quit in my driveway.
These tires were made back in '94 and had a good running until this day. I ordered a new set of Kumohs today so she'll be back on the road in a four days. Right now I have her running on the original full size spare, like that's any better.
In a couple instances this car has taken care or me and I'll do the same to it.
These tires were made back in '94 and had a good running until this day. I ordered a new set of Kumohs today so she'll be back on the road in a four days. Right now I have her running on the original full size spare, like that's any better.
In a couple instances this car has taken care or me and I'll do the same to it.
06-26-12, 11:54 PM
#891
today i rewired my swapped S4 13b's engine harness, replaced all the injector clips, added an SAFC-II, rolled my rear fenders, swapped on my other other wheels, fixed a few exhaust leaks, and found/welded a crack in my RB header (i have no idea how a crack developed, has less than 2000 miles on it and it was cracked in the middle of the runner)
06-27-12, 12:25 AM
#892
I got the blue one running! The RB exhaust sounds really good! No more noisy interior. The Carter is louder than the idle. Heh.
Speaking of idle, it almost wanted to idle at 500rpm after 20 seconds of run time when the choke **** got pushed in. The carb wasn't adjusted right so it eventually stalled. It's adjusted fine now and feels torquey for such a fresh rebuild. Idles less than 1k with just a few minutes run time.
I was free reving it to like 4k. I know probably not a good thing on a freshy, but whatever. I built this thing to have fun. Idle oil pressure is like 50psi warm, which from my track record with R5 shafts, is amazing as those usually have 15psi or less at idle due to full flow oil squirters they came with stock. This R5 shaft got swapped to a set of checkball squirters and I ported/beveled the stat gear oil holes. Also smoothed the oil pump cavity and any other harsh 90 degree edges I found. It paid off with healthy oil pressure.
I also threw in an adjustable oil pressure reg and added something like .140" of washers. I think it makes like 90psi when you rev it. The stock gauge is all it's got at the moment.
Speaking of idle, it almost wanted to idle at 500rpm after 20 seconds of run time when the choke **** got pushed in. The carb wasn't adjusted right so it eventually stalled. It's adjusted fine now and feels torquey for such a fresh rebuild. Idles less than 1k with just a few minutes run time.
I was free reving it to like 4k. I know probably not a good thing on a freshy, but whatever. I built this thing to have fun. Idle oil pressure is like 50psi warm, which from my track record with R5 shafts, is amazing as those usually have 15psi or less at idle due to full flow oil squirters they came with stock. This R5 shaft got swapped to a set of checkball squirters and I ported/beveled the stat gear oil holes. Also smoothed the oil pump cavity and any other harsh 90 degree edges I found. It paid off with healthy oil pressure.
I also threw in an adjustable oil pressure reg and added something like .140" of washers. I think it makes like 90psi when you rev it. The stock gauge is all it's got at the moment.
06-27-12, 07:01 AM
#894
I got the blue one running! The RB exhaust sounds really good! No more noisy interior. The Carter is louder than the idle. Heh.
Speaking of idle, it almost wanted to idle at 500rpm after 20 seconds of run time when the choke **** got pushed in. The carb wasn't adjusted right so it eventually stalled. It's adjusted fine now and feels torquey for such a fresh rebuild. Idles less than 1k with just a few minutes run time.
I was free reving it to like 4k. I know probably not a good thing on a freshy, but whatever. I built this thing to have fun. Idle oil pressure is like 50psi warm, which from my track record with R5 shafts, is amazing as those usually have 15psi or less at idle due to full flow oil squirters they came with stock. This R5 shaft got swapped to a set of checkball squirters and I ported/beveled the stat gear oil holes. Also smoothed the oil pump cavity and any other harsh 90 degree edges I found. It paid off with healthy oil pressure.
I also threw in an adjustable oil pressure reg and added something like .140" of washers. I think it makes like 90psi when you rev it. The stock gauge is all it's got at the moment.
Speaking of idle, it almost wanted to idle at 500rpm after 20 seconds of run time when the choke **** got pushed in. The carb wasn't adjusted right so it eventually stalled. It's adjusted fine now and feels torquey for such a fresh rebuild. Idles less than 1k with just a few minutes run time.
I was free reving it to like 4k. I know probably not a good thing on a freshy, but whatever. I built this thing to have fun. Idle oil pressure is like 50psi warm, which from my track record with R5 shafts, is amazing as those usually have 15psi or less at idle due to full flow oil squirters they came with stock. This R5 shaft got swapped to a set of checkball squirters and I ported/beveled the stat gear oil holes. Also smoothed the oil pump cavity and any other harsh 90 degree edges I found. It paid off with healthy oil pressure.
I also threw in an adjustable oil pressure reg and added something like .140" of washers. I think it makes like 90psi when you rev it. The stock gauge is all it's got at the moment.
06-27-12, 10:42 AM
#895
I've done four heat cycles on the car now with the alternate air-cleaner lid, including one half-hour local and freeway run to get her pretty much as hot as she ever gets... and I haven't had a flood incident, and still-warm restarting 30 mins to an hour or so after shutdown is much improved. Smells a bit rich for a couple minutes, but no gouts of black smoke or poor ignition.
At this point I'd say it's highly likely that the hot-shutdown flood problem I've been chasing for well over a year has been caused by degradation of the carbon material inside my shiny repainted air cleaner cover, even though it tests fine by the only test the FSM gives (based on vacuum) which only tests for clogging that blocks airflow thru the element, not vapor absorption. Made worse no doubt by the higher-volatility Cali gas formulations used today.
SA's don't have a separate "charcoal canister", instead the element is welded inside the air-cleaner lid, suspended directly over the carb throat. This made the carb lid a 'disposable' part. One which is no longer available new.
If I get another half-dozen tests with no problem with this 'newer' (though sadly un-pretty) spare lid, I'm going to have to explore mods to the lid to make the carbon filler material replaceable by de-welding the internal canister and fitting it with screw studs (& safety-locked hardware; can't have a nut falling off and going down the carb!), so my restored lids don't have to be scrapped because a handful of charcoal pellets got dirty.
At this point I'd say it's highly likely that the hot-shutdown flood problem I've been chasing for well over a year has been caused by degradation of the carbon material inside my shiny repainted air cleaner cover, even though it tests fine by the only test the FSM gives (based on vacuum) which only tests for clogging that blocks airflow thru the element, not vapor absorption. Made worse no doubt by the higher-volatility Cali gas formulations used today.
SA's don't have a separate "charcoal canister", instead the element is welded inside the air-cleaner lid, suspended directly over the carb throat. This made the carb lid a 'disposable' part. One which is no longer available new.
If I get another half-dozen tests with no problem with this 'newer' (though sadly un-pretty) spare lid, I'm going to have to explore mods to the lid to make the carbon filler material replaceable by de-welding the internal canister and fitting it with screw studs (& safety-locked hardware; can't have a nut falling off and going down the carb!), so my restored lids don't have to be scrapped because a handful of charcoal pellets got dirty.
06-27-12, 11:55 AM
#897
I've done four heat cycles on the car now with the alternate air-cleaner lid, including one half-hour local and freeway run to get her pretty much as hot as she ever gets... and I haven't had a flood incident, and still-warm restarting 30 mins to an hour or so after shutdown is much improved. Smells a bit rich for a couple minutes, but no gouts of black smoke or poor ignition.
At this point I'd say it's highly likely that the hot-shutdown flood problem I've been chasing for well over a year has been caused by degradation of the carbon material inside my shiny repainted air cleaner cover, even though it tests fine by the only test the FSM gives (based on vacuum) which only tests for clogging that blocks airflow thru the element, not vapor absorption. Made worse no doubt by the higher-volatility Cali gas formulations used today.
SA's don't have a separate "charcoal canister", instead the element is welded inside the air-cleaner lid, suspended directly over the carb throat. This made the carb lid a 'disposable' part. One which is no longer available new.
If I get another half-dozen tests with no problem with this 'newer' (though sadly un-pretty) spare lid, I'm going to have to explore mods to the lid to make the carbon filler material replaceable by de-welding the internal canister and fitting it with screw studs (& safety-locked hardware; can't have a nut falling off and going down the carb!), so my restored lids don't have to be scrapped because a handful of charcoal pellets got dirty.
At this point I'd say it's highly likely that the hot-shutdown flood problem I've been chasing for well over a year has been caused by degradation of the carbon material inside my shiny repainted air cleaner cover, even though it tests fine by the only test the FSM gives (based on vacuum) which only tests for clogging that blocks airflow thru the element, not vapor absorption. Made worse no doubt by the higher-volatility Cali gas formulations used today.
SA's don't have a separate "charcoal canister", instead the element is welded inside the air-cleaner lid, suspended directly over the carb throat. This made the carb lid a 'disposable' part. One which is no longer available new.
If I get another half-dozen tests with no problem with this 'newer' (though sadly un-pretty) spare lid, I'm going to have to explore mods to the lid to make the carbon filler material replaceable by de-welding the internal canister and fitting it with screw studs (& safety-locked hardware; can't have a nut falling off and going down the carb!), so my restored lids don't have to be scrapped because a handful of charcoal pellets got dirty.
I would be very interested in how this turns out.
06-27-12, 12:46 PM
#898
I filled a few ports on my Nikki with QwikSteel, plugging vacuum leaks and fixing my AP. I worked on tuning the idle (still having trouble running below 1500...i'll continue working on it after i get home from Southern California...) and drove her to and from work yesterday! only 5 miles each way, but it's the farthest I've driven it in over a year with no (outside of my secondaries not working) issues.
06-27-12, 12:58 PM
#899
Originally Posted by cfamilyfix
Congrats!...one down and ...1 to go???? O wait...2...I forgot about the baja.
Yeah, two bajas, one GSL-SE, two REPUs, MG, and yes even the GLC to go. The GLC just needs an intake. It'll probably get done next.
06-28-12, 09:55 AM
#900
Another short test run last night, and still no flood. Smells a bit rich at start for the first 10 seconds or so, but I can't remember that ever not happening. Rear bowl level 24 hours after shutdown was just even with the bottom edge of the window.
This weekend, I'm doing my first after-rebuild oil change, and I'll take her out for a good long romp. If she restarts cleanly an hour after shutting down from a full-hot run, I'm going to have to pronounce this problem solved.
I'm tempted to try dropping my bowl levels just the tiniest bit--they are maybe 2mm high while running--but the prudent part of me doesn't want to fiddle with what's otherwise working quite well, actually.
This weekend, I'm doing my first after-rebuild oil change, and I'll take her out for a good long romp. If she restarts cleanly an hour after shutting down from a full-hot run, I'm going to have to pronounce this problem solved.
I'm tempted to try dropping my bowl levels just the tiniest bit--they are maybe 2mm high while running--but the prudent part of me doesn't want to fiddle with what's otherwise working quite well, actually.