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Install the flasher CPU. I think it's the correct location. If anyone knows different please let me know.
While I was inspecting the gas tank I drained the fuel. My tank is completely rusted and looking for a clean replacement or DIY fix. This is the worst fuel I've ever seen.
Completely rusted fuel tank. Seeing this makes me want to start over and fully restore it from bolt 0.
Yes, it's an Autopower. It started life off as roll cage but the PO decided here didn't like it that way and cut the fronts off. I have the pieces should I decide to try to cobble it back together, but...I think not.
Today I learned that the bungs on the GSL-SE oil cooler are fragile as flower petals.
I also learned that if you crack a bung, it will drizzle oil out like syrup out of an Aunt Jemima bottle.
I also learned that I will not be going to auto-x tomorrow morning.
I also learned that I can pull the oil cooler and have it re-welded by anybody that's competent at welding aluminum.
I also learned that I have to pull the radiator out in order to get the oil cooler out.
I also learned that my wife had a laundry list of chores that had to be done right this minute while I had my hands covered in oil.
I also learned that pulling the oil cooler, although messy, isn't as big of a deal as I imagined and that the most annoying thing about the whole process was item number 6.
I also learned how AN fittings work and hopefully how not to fk up my oil cooler bungs when I put the oil cooler back in after the repair.
It was a very educational day.
fm
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; 07-19-15 at 01:49 AM.
Yes, it's an Autopower. It started life off as roll cage but the PO decided here didn't like it that way and cut the fronts off. I have the pieces should I decide to try to cobble it back together, but...I think not.
Today I learned that the bungs on the GSL-SE oil cooler are fragile as flower petals.
I also learned that if you crack a bung, it will drizzle oil out like syrup out of an Aunt Jemima bottle.
I also learned that I will not be going to auto-x tomorrow morning.
I also learned that I can pull the oil cooler and have it re-welded by anybody that's competent at welding aluminum.
I also learned that I have to pull the radiator out in order to get the oil cooler out.
I also learned that my wife had a laundry list of chores that had to be done right this minute while I had my hands covered in oil.
I also learned that pulling the oil cooler, although messy, isn't as big of a deal as I imagined and that the most annoying thing about the whole process was item number 6.
I also learned how AN fittings work and hopefully how not to fk up my oil cooler bungs when I put the oil cooler back in after the repair.
Ah yes, I see. They like to have quality time with us.
Today I leveled off the driver's side rear spring by cutting one more coil off (with a hacksaw). It's really close. When I sit in the car, I suspect it'll be just about dead on even.
Took the fuxored oil cooler out to my car so I can get it fixed tomorrow.
Brought my oil cooler in to the only guy in town that people recommend to weld aluminum. He gave me the disclaimer about how there are no guarantees it'll hold, that he won't screw it up, yadda yadda yadda. I told him it's been done before and I have nothing but his setup time to lose, so let's go for it. Tomorrow I'll find out if a $550 new oil cooler is in the cards for me or not. I suspect not.
Brought my oil cooler in to the only guy in town that people recommend to weld aluminum. He gave me the disclaimer about how there are no guarantees it'll hold, that he won't screw it up, yadda yadda yadda. I told him it's been done before and I have nothing but his setup time to lose, so let's go for it. Tomorrow I'll find out if a $550 new oil cooler is in the cards for me or not. I suspect not.
fm
I ruined an oil cooler and I am pretty sure I documented it in this thread. I did talk to several people locally about fixing it. The oil contamination is the big problem. From what I was told the best way to deal with it would be to cut off the threaded portion with the cracks and weld on a new piece.
I did end up reusing the damaged oil cooler in my EV as a motor controller cooler. I wrapped the outside with carbon fiber tow impregnated with structural epoxy. I drilled out the threads. I filled the center with thickened epoxy and then drilled and tapped for the new water fittings. No problems in the last year but I am only running 5 psi on the water pressure. I am pretty sure it would not hold at 100psi with hot oil.
Craaaazzy,
Nope, no build thread unless you count this one
Pm box cleared. Fire away.
Doug,
Yeah I was told the same thing from a radiator shop but I know there are several people who have successfully repaired them so I feel like I need to give the repair option a go.
Craaaazzy, Nope, no build thread unless you count this one Pm box cleared. Fire away. Doug, Yeah I was told the same thing from a radiator shop but I know there are several people who have successfully repaired them so I feel like I need to give the repair option a go. fm
Ok, I wasn't going to clutter this thread but I would also recommend on not simply welding the existing bung but having an AN fitting welded on. It's simply too easy to crack it. Had a shop do it for me and it was cheap.
Put the fixed oil cooler in this evening and buttoned everything back up. There was a tiny spot of oil after running it for 10 minutes. The optimist in me says it was left over from the oil that was all over the lines as I was putting it back together. The pessimist in me says it has a small leak.
The realist in me says, don't fk with it...it's a tiny leak and you already cracked the bungs once.
Here she is, idling at 600 rpm. Yes, a peripheral port idling at 600 RPM.
well, i have don't know exactly where yours was cracked and leaking from, but i got a cooler welded up sometime back in the mid-90s and it lasted (leak-free) until about 2003 or so when i bought a brand new cooler and lines. i still have the old one and fully intend to repair and use it (if needs be) again in a future project. my crack was right around where the bung attached to the end tank.
It's frustrating when people don't! It's rubbish for following what has been done or trying to find good info that has been posted aye
I would suggest FM to start a build thread. He's got a terrific build and definitely one of the best looking 1st gens but like you said, trying to dig through a huge generic thread to find his specific info is nearly impossible.
That's why I don't post in here very often. Speaking of which, I modded a bunch of secondary air bleeds to accept stock jets today. It's not very interesting.
I would suggest FM to start a build thread. He's got a terrific build and definitely one of the best looking 1st gens but like you said, trying to dig through a huge generic thread to find his specific info is nearly impossible.
Oh, OK, let me get some stuff together and I'll put together a thread.
tore down the nikki on the 1980 10th ae, varnished fuel a plenty, top half of carb looked new inside, fuel line and below was gummed and nasty. bleeds and jets are in the wife's ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (that thing is MINE now) and used welding wire and 1 single strand from 14ga to snake the crap out of them. deciding whether to strip this carb down like my 83's is, or just put it all back with the rats nest as at 52xxx miles it all seems to work ok. fuel pump and tank have yet to be cleaned and checked. hope to free up the rotor guts with amsoil power foam but it wont get here from atkins till tuesday. might fire it up and see what it does anyways, using the 83's fuel pump and lines and give the car a "transfusion" per se .
Last edited by garagemahal76; 07-23-15 at 08:35 AM.
Reason: oic's
well, i have don't know exactly where yours was cracked and leaking from, but i got a cooler welded up sometime back in the mid-90s and it lasted (leak-free) until about 2003 or so when i bought a brand new cooler and lines. i still have the old one and fully intend to repair and use it (if needs be) again in a future project. my crack was right around where the bung attached to the end tank.
It was a hairline crack that went from the base where it attached to the tank and extended to the end of the bung. Both bungs had this crack.
i really dig that 600 RPM video, by the way.
Thanks...I think it will raise quite a few eyebrows. There was a time when I would never have thought it would idle that low, but after seeing j9fd3s' Mr. Peepers idling at like 800, I'm not all that surprised.
dress her up, and take her out for a night on the town?
I was expecting something like "strip her down and run her ragged" actually lol
Kinda thinking about deleting the rest of the emissions since the air pump is gone , but I wanna get this running first before messing with it . Used some masterseries rust remover / metal prep and got the peripherals looking nice and rust free but also took anodization off. A reasonable trade off.
07-18-15, 07:46 PM
darling nikki
