MilkStout

iTrader: (1)

it was black and brown with grime. i did pretty good i think. i used the fox tutorial i found on here.

removed from carb:
-Anti-Afterburn Valve
-Throttle opener
-throttle position sensor (lol on a carb...)
-front choke assembly
-dashpot
-rear choke assembly
-choke assembly bracket
-choke butterfly
-choke rod
-altitude compensator

removed from intake manifold:
-Air Control Valve (did this awhile back,still need to take the rear off)
-Shutter Valve

Sealed/Held with JB Weld:
-AAB Vacuum Source
-Shutter valve butterfly in the upright position


i left the air vent solenoid on as his instructions were confusing. but once i figure that out ill take it apart and freeze plug it. also once i get a new gasket or ill make a gasket for the intake manifold ill take that off and freeze plug the coolant holes since those are for emissions. also ill get some sheetmetal and block that rear acv hose thing that goes to the cat. but for now its gonna dangle like a hung horse.





im letting all the JB weld cure then ill add a bit more then ill reinstall everything in the morning and test it out.

carbs are not as scary as i thought. especially stripped.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

They're really not. Now to connect that unit and drive!

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

seriously?

i feel so bad now because i remember helping someone once that mentioned the TPS on a Nikki and i think i treated him like he had 3 heads. i guess i'm going to have to familiarize myself with this device before speaking out of turn again.

i had the same experience after being deathly afraid of them for years. i still don't know as much as i'd like to, but i'm much less afraid of pulling them apart to learn.

MilkStout

iTrader: (1)

yeah its pretty simple. even looking at the inside and how the air and gas works.

i put it back on and im having a weird issue.

if i drive normal. lets call it eco mode lol its runs perfect. but if i floor it suddenly or once it goes gast into the high rpms is sputters like mad. like its not getting enough....fuel or air?

but if i let the car sit for awhile. then drive it...it ******* flies!!!!

i thought maybe its something to do with my 2ndaries. (im not mech yet so its not that) but if i ease into the high rpms at more than half throttle itll go but i can go pedal to the metal.

but like i said if i let the car sit for awhile itll drive perfect.

so i wonder if the heat after awihle is causing something to leak once the 2ndaries come on?

oh well im getting either a new weber or holley soon from a friend. but i wanted to have fun with the stock nikki. i know these have a lot of potential.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

When my car behaved like that it was the fuel pickup in the tank clogged up.

I just went and looked at your past threads. You had a similar issue and changed fuel filter. Fixed it for a time. Not unlike the problem I was having. Now it sounds even more like fuel pickup.

MilkStout

iTrader: (1)

its so weird. cuz if i let the car sit for awhile and then drive its fine! then if i drive it for more than 30mins after 30 it starts to act up. like for instance, drove it to work this morning. had tons of fun on the highway as it wasnt acting up. then 30mins later im about 5mins from work and i downshift at a light, turn and then go and it acts up.

im getting a holley from a friend soon so ill have to redo my fuel system but i think its the nikki after time something heat wise is causing something to happen.

but hot damn. when she does work...

MilkStout

iTrader: (1)

my friends dad does his own custom fab (builds old chevy drag cars) im may have him make me a
15 gallon fuel cell and just get rid of the gas tank.