please dont make fun
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From: Washington
please dont make fun
Ok so iv been looking and have not found out anything.. i want my car to sound like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V35zP1wHYKA >> I HAVE A 13B! but does anyone know (Or might have a clue) what they might be useing for a exhaust system or if they have modifications to the engine? Help would be aprishated.. Thank you
A very brief and not detailed description of a bridgeport is when you make the intake/exhaust "holes" bigger essentially allowing the engine to breathe more. That's a very brief description. But I also love the sound of a bridgeport, I'm sure most rotary enthusiasts do.
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From: Washington
K! and to the person who posted links i was looking at the same things while you posted them (Computer lagged on me) Anyone got an estamated cost of this upgrade? and from 1-10 on a scale of how hard? 1 being really ez a monkey could do it and 10 being dont even try lol..
It's quite expensive, and I would not attempt it. If your looking for someone who is going to do it right, expect around 4000$ or more. And a bridgeport is not really streetable, unless you get a small one.
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From: Washington
so its not street legal? Hmm, that i did not know.. 4K? The thread i was reading seemed pretty simple to do by yourself(Looks like it would take awhile) another question is.. does bridgeport HAVE to be turbo'ed? if it has to be turbo ill just bag the idea and put a 3" exhaust with a magaflow on it..
It's street legal, but it would be really hard to drive it on the street without problems, like very low end torque. It does not have to be turboed. You could talk to the people at Atkins Rotary about porting. They know a lot.
What is talked above is a street port. The video in question is a Bridgeport.
Do some searching. It doesn't cost $4000 unless you want a brand new engine. If you really
want, you can spend under $100 and have a bridge.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=bridgeport
Do some searching. It doesn't cost $4000 unless you want a brand new engine. If you really
want, you can spend under $100 and have a bridge.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=bridgeport
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From: Washington
k and my next question is totally off the subject. i got two wires hanging under my car and have no clue where they go.. my alternator(as ppl know) wont charge the battery.. SO! i have found 2 wires that are unpluged and could go to the two hanging under my car.. i cant freggin find ANY source of diagrams soud could please someone help!!!! the two hanging under my car are close to the shifter and the two that i belive they could go to is by my starter.. now, the two under my shifter were generating power(only 1 wire had power).. the two by the starter where NOT generating power.. any clues? maybe a picture lol...
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ok so here are the pictures (left to right) The picture is underneath the car, the wires heading towards the camera are not attached to anything.. middle picture is by the fire wall closer to the starter.. third is a picture of something that has to do wit the alternator.. not sure what it is.. EDITE: OK!! THE FIRST PICTURE IF YOU LOOK AND FOLLOW THE WIRES BACK TOWARDS THE STARTER!! THE TWO WIRES HEADING OFF TO THE LEFT ARE THE WIRES IN THE MIDDLE PICTURE.. so now im kinda confused and starting to think it has nothing to do with the alternator..
Last edited by Zackqw; Apr 11, 2010 at 09:48 PM.
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
so its not street legal? Hmm, that i did not know.. 4K? The thread i was reading seemed pretty simple to do by yourself(Looks like it would take awhile) another question is.. does bridgeport HAVE to be turbo'ed? if it has to be turbo ill just bag the idea and put a 3" exhaust with a magaflow on it..
much much simpler without a turbo.
Ok, we agreed not to make fun of you per your thread title, now do us a favor and do some research. I don't mean to be the search gestapo but you're asking some SILLY basic questions.
Now your wires question isn't bad but you can solve that one yourself. Grab a wiring diagram (link in the FAQ, which you should have read LONG ago) and trace down what color wires those are. If you don't understand the title given in the wiring diagram, that's something we might be able to help you with.
Now your wires question isn't bad but you can solve that one yourself. Grab a wiring diagram (link in the FAQ, which you should have read LONG ago) and trace down what color wires those are. If you don't understand the title given in the wiring diagram, that's something we might be able to help you with.
I can remember asking some of these many many years ago.......take your lumps and insults in stride and learn from the good advice that is given. The exhaust on the car you show is a byproduct of extensive and costly engine work. Just getting a header and free flowing exhaust will still put a smile on your face though.
To compare your request to the piston world would be like asking a muffler shop to make your cavalier sound like the big block camaro at the race track.
To compare your request to the piston world would be like asking a muffler shop to make your cavalier sound like the big block camaro at the race track.
Bridge ports are not very streetable and I hate to say it but this is probably above your current confidence level. I'd read up on it some more and then decide.
True, but lets be realistic here. If you take the motor you have now apart, you could port it and slap it back together. You would want to replace at the very least the soft seals and gaskets. If you have it fully apart anyway, do it right and spend the ~$1000 to replace the worn seals, etc etc.
Bridge ports are not very streetable and I hate to say it but this is probably above your current confidence level. I'd read up on it some more and then decide.
Bridge ports are not very streetable and I hate to say it but this is probably above your current confidence level. I'd read up on it some more and then decide.
But yes, you should totally do a full rebuild if the money allowed.
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From: Chino Hills, CA
The last picture looks like the relay-based external voltage regulator from a '78-'79 SA. It's pretty much in charge of making the alternator properly charge the battery.
Whether or not you need it hooked up and working, depends on if your car's electrical system is still stock, including the alternator being used. From '80 on, the alternators had voltage regulators built inside them; no external regulator needed.
Doing a bridge port (or any port modifications) yourself requires that you have the tools and skills to carefully grind cast iron and aluminum engine housings to a very exact shape, with zero mistakes. one slip with the die grinder and you can ruin a housing.
Unless you can borrow one, you also need a porting template - - you don't just freehand a port any more than you could freehand a camshaft.
You need at minimum a soft seal rebuild kit, plus all tools, supplies, and space to remove, disassemble, reassemble, and reinstall the engine.
The wires exiting the firewall in your second picture are not stock, and there's not supposed to be any wire exiting there - - that hole is normally for the speedo cable. Without tracing them inside the car and under the dash, there's no way to tell what they are for.
Here's a photo of the same area on my (prettied up, but mostly stock) '80, while it was a work-in-progress. You can see the speedo cable coming out that hole, and heading under the car.
The wires that run back along the trans are usually for the switch that operates the white "reverse" taillights, and depending on year, there are switches which detect 4th gear and 5th gear selection, which are part of the emissions control wiring.
Whether or not you need it hooked up and working, depends on if your car's electrical system is still stock, including the alternator being used. From '80 on, the alternators had voltage regulators built inside them; no external regulator needed.
Doing a bridge port (or any port modifications) yourself requires that you have the tools and skills to carefully grind cast iron and aluminum engine housings to a very exact shape, with zero mistakes. one slip with the die grinder and you can ruin a housing.
Unless you can borrow one, you also need a porting template - - you don't just freehand a port any more than you could freehand a camshaft.
You need at minimum a soft seal rebuild kit, plus all tools, supplies, and space to remove, disassemble, reassemble, and reinstall the engine.
The wires exiting the firewall in your second picture are not stock, and there's not supposed to be any wire exiting there - - that hole is normally for the speedo cable. Without tracing them inside the car and under the dash, there's no way to tell what they are for.
Here's a photo of the same area on my (prettied up, but mostly stock) '80, while it was a work-in-progress. You can see the speedo cable coming out that hole, and heading under the car.
The wires that run back along the trans are usually for the switch that operates the white "reverse" taillights, and depending on year, there are switches which detect 4th gear and 5th gear selection, which are part of the emissions control wiring.
You might want to get a video from Mazdatrix, http://mazdatrix.com/videos.htm , on rebuilding a rotary engine. Just in case.
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From: Washington
ok thanks for the information, and divindriver, i traced thos wires and some idiot decided to use them for a power and ground wire for the cd player >.< so i removed thos and found out about the wires under my car. (They power the plug that goes to the alternator) so now my alternator has power but is not charging the battery. SO! i have one more problem.. ready for this guys? this one blows, literally... one of the oil lines that runs to what looks like a oil engine cooler blew up on me.. sprayed oil ALL over the damn place.. so now im in search for a new hose for it.. but it gets better.. to have one made will cost me here in spokane, 50-100 dollars.. so if anyones got an extra one laying around they wldnt mind shipping to me hahaha... so my question is >>> HOW much do i need that hole set up? Or can i just bypass it and hook the two hoses together?
You can make new hoses yourself with -10 AN fittings and braided hose from JEGS or Summit. A good hydraulic shop can make them a lot cheaper then $50. Take the ends from your old one and they can be reused.