Paint question..
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MIAMI
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Paint question..
After getting qoutes between 4k and 7k, I decided to just paint my own car,
I got a buddy who worked in a bodyshop for many years in the 80s that is helping me. So far so good just a lot of SANDING!!!
We are undecided to use a one stage acrylic or a two stage base/clear. Any one have suggestions?
I have a 40 gallon comp with pro paint gun.
thanks
I got a buddy who worked in a bodyshop for many years in the 80s that is helping me. So far so good just a lot of SANDING!!!
We are undecided to use a one stage acrylic or a two stage base/clear. Any one have suggestions?
I have a 40 gallon comp with pro paint gun.
thanks
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MIAMI
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Paint
Dan,
I am think I am going with either a Mercedes or Lexus black. They are very deep.
The flairs on my car were put on in the late 80's, very few stress cracks, they were done out in Cali, quality work. Not bad for 20 years being on the car
Also, thinking of getting the fiberglass rear bumper shell from Mariah. The race cars ran them and it saves like 50lbs. Just dont get hit in the rear!!!!
As you know these cars are a really easy to pull apart, the bodyshops here nuts.
Not going to spend 5k--7k on a paint job, no way.
What black did you use on your widebody?
I am think I am going with either a Mercedes or Lexus black. They are very deep.
The flairs on my car were put on in the late 80's, very few stress cracks, they were done out in Cali, quality work. Not bad for 20 years being on the car
Also, thinking of getting the fiberglass rear bumper shell from Mariah. The race cars ran them and it saves like 50lbs. Just dont get hit in the rear!!!!
As you know these cars are a really easy to pull apart, the bodyshops here nuts.
Not going to spend 5k--7k on a paint job, no way.
What black did you use on your widebody?
#4
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
I've done single, 2 and 3 stage paint. The 3 stage being a violet pearl between the base and clear. The widebody is a single stage polyurethane acrylic made by U-Tech. It's the toughest finish I've seen since trying to sand down my old box van that was painted with Imron, which is a single stage epoxy. The widebody will never get waxed due to flattener added to paint for the matte finish. It may get buffed once and a while just to clean it up.
It all depends on the look you want. A 2 stage is a brighter paint with depth and can be wet sanded and polished to a show car finish. Single stage tends to be more of a utility paint for ease of maintenance and application. It too can be wet sanded and polished out to give an excellent shine without any depth, but cannot be used with metal flake.
Dan didn't paint his widebody, the lucky sod bought it with fresh paint.
It all depends on the look you want. A 2 stage is a brighter paint with depth and can be wet sanded and polished to a show car finish. Single stage tends to be more of a utility paint for ease of maintenance and application. It too can be wet sanded and polished out to give an excellent shine without any depth, but cannot be used with metal flake.
Dan didn't paint his widebody, the lucky sod bought it with fresh paint.
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MIAMI
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
paint
Trochoid,
Thanks for the info. I may just go with a one stage for ease of application/durability.
Not looking for a metalic finish,so lets see what black I can find. Just want a very deep black.
Thanks for the info. I may just go with a one stage for ease of application/durability.
Not looking for a metalic finish,so lets see what black I can find. Just want a very deep black.
#6
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Hickory, North Carolina
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My thoughts were something all together different. Although you are not a painter, I would still go with base coat clear coat 2 stage. Its very forgiving. The paint itself is not all that important. The most important part is to use a high glamour clear. This is a very forgiving process.
I also wouldnt advise using a paint that dries so hard it is hard to color sand afterwards. the color sanding is critical when doing a quality paint job. But if you want texture in your paint job thats a different story. Any job i do i always put at least 5 coats of quality clear on the car. Then later go back and wet sand it to perfection. through this you will find clearity and depth. the car will look as though it is wet. Like a sheet of glass. Now thats my thirteen cents.
If you need any additional help you can call me and i will talk you through it.
I also wouldnt advise using a paint that dries so hard it is hard to color sand afterwards. the color sanding is critical when doing a quality paint job. But if you want texture in your paint job thats a different story. Any job i do i always put at least 5 coats of quality clear on the car. Then later go back and wet sand it to perfection. through this you will find clearity and depth. the car will look as though it is wet. Like a sheet of glass. Now thats my thirteen cents.
If you need any additional help you can call me and i will talk you through it.
#7
Ricer
iTrader: (4)
Trochoid - buffing your car will also shine it up.
Every car has some texture in the paint. 5-6 coats of clear gets expensive fast.
As far as a good black - Just go with Mazda Brilliant Black from multiple years. When you have it mixed it should have strong black and binder if making base.
Every car has some texture in the paint. 5-6 coats of clear gets expensive fast.
As far as a good black - Just go with Mazda Brilliant Black from multiple years. When you have it mixed it should have strong black and binder if making base.
Last edited by IanS; 01-01-10 at 09:41 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
add to cart
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
Posts: 4,180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've updated the paint code list, should you need colour info. Interesting that a former 1st gen colour, gone since 1982, has resurfaced as an RX-8 colour
http://www.rotorhead.ca/articles/200...5/paint-codes/
http://www.rotorhead.ca/articles/200...5/paint-codes/
#9
Turbo widebody FB
iTrader: (1)
Trochoid is correct, I didn't do the paint on my car. After trying a bit of body work I realized it's not my thing, I am more into the mechanical aspect of things (makes sense because I am a mechanic).
The body work on my car was all done by a local body shop (previous owners father owned a body shop). I do have some stress cracks on the rear spoiler where it attaches to the rear fender. I honestly wish I had the same spoiler as you, IMO it looks alot cleaner and suits the kit better.
The body work on my car was all done by a local body shop (previous owners father owned a body shop). I do have some stress cracks on the rear spoiler where it attaches to the rear fender. I honestly wish I had the same spoiler as you, IMO it looks alot cleaner and suits the kit better.
#10
will be boostin soon!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: hudson, wi
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've updated the paint code list, should you need colour info. Interesting that a former 1st gen colour, gone since 1982, has resurfaced as an RX-8 colour
http://www.rotorhead.ca/articles/200...5/paint-codes/
http://www.rotorhead.ca/articles/200...5/paint-codes/