Wrenchback

Just bought a 1985 GSL-SE a couple days ago
Please let me know your thoughts on my first set of questions:
I drove car 1000 miles back to my home immediately after buying it (careful driving, but really fun!)
I premixed on every tank (.5oz per gallon). I got 28mpg at an average of 70mph across Oregon/Idaho/Wyoming
Prev owner did a full engine rebuid 1200 miles ago (body has 178K miles)
Only oil leak is from the drain plug (no copper washer?) Engine and tranny are quite clean and oil/grime free.
Runs quite well, idles a little high (1100rpm)
Completely rust free body, paint has many rock chips, clearcoat peeling, several door dings, but looks vintage/cool (metallic light blue color, presumably original)
Power steering pump is not working (steers like a manual). I need to fix this first (prev owner said I need a rebuild kit to fix "seals"
AC does not work (I don't care, would I regret removing it? I think not)
Interior is very nice for its age (gray fabric)
Radio missing (I really want to get an original radio/cassette deck)
Carpet is fuzzy (would welcome feedback on carpet vendor)
Door carpet is also fuzzy (any vendors of this?)
Custom exhaust backfires upon throttle-off deceleration
Power windows roll up very slowly (I saw a thread about using relays to make it faster)
Windshield wipers to not move (I need to fix this. Glad it didn't rain on the drive home)
Rear hatch will not stay up (need struts)
Headlights work, can flash high beams but high-beams don't work in steady-state. Not sure why (fuse?)
Suspension tired, but not dangerous (I welcome ideas on a good sporty daily driver strut/shock set)
Shifter lever gets hot after a long drive (lacking insulation? lacking trans fluid?)
Cruise control does not work (I'd love to find a thread on how to fix this)
SE wheels have minor pits, dings and rim rash. Where can I find restore instructions or vendor? Need one centercap (still available?)
Paid too much? $5000
My goal is a nice daily driver. I plan to paint it after I have it in solid mechanical shape.
I welcome any/all friendly feedback/ideas

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the club! SE is prob one of the most popular models of the 1st Gen (one of...I have an 80 SA
Paid too much? Tough call. no rust. new motor vs higher mileage. You did OK I think. Put another way, if cared for you will never lose anything off that price. Might even make some in the long run...

Not an SE guy, so I will restrict my comments to what might help.
First, unless SE guys chime in, a hot tranny shifter can not be good. Certainly not normal. If you have not done so I would get fluids checked ASAP.
Speaking of which, unless you have documentation (as opposed to his Word) from the seller saying any/all fluids have been recently changed, I would change EVERYTHING, so you know where you start from. I mean brakes thru to axle. I run synth (Redline) in my TX and axle.

For that matter, any servicing that you have NO documentation for, you can not lose by doing it now, be it new belts, hoses, battery cables (oh, YES!!), even the unseen stuff like exhaust hangers (rubber, failing by now), FMOC (oil cooler) rubber supports, all the window seal rubbers (and hatch, sunroof)...the hidden stuff most people don't even know exist till they fail. A challenge of RX7 ownership is a major LACK of aftermarket parts support beyond basic mechanical. You can pretty much build a whole new MGB with aftermarket parts, but ANY interior trim for a '7? forget it... add to this that mazda is DAILY dropping replacement parts off the "still available" List and it can be...frustrating. The point is to do an honest evaluation of what needs to be replaced, and GET IT while you can.

Before you dive into anything mechanical I recommend you have:
-complete PARTS book/PDFs which are available here thru Sgt Fox, one of the Moderators. That way you see HOW stuff goes together, plus you can know what you are talking about for part names and numbers with your suppliers and dealers.
-then get an OE service manual and an electrical manual.

As to AC, if you don't want to use it, fine, but if you pull it, keep it! you may change your mind. And the next owner will be thrilled. Likewise with any OE piece you swap out.

Most operational mechanical bits are available, but things like Cruise parts, electronics and certainly most/all trim is pretty much NLA.
That said, post your wants and check for-sale stuff in the Parts area of the Forum. Ebay is also pretty good for pieces, from my experience.

So. Pics! show us your pride-and-joy.

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

Wrenchback

Thanks for the feedback, Stu.
I just spent the time today to change fluids (oil, trans, diff). The trans was a quart low. I will soon find out if that's why the shifter lever got so warm.
Next step, I will remove the AC (and save all of the parts).
My main goal is to fix the power steering. The previous owner told me that it has a bad o-ring and leaks fluid. I can see fluid spill in the engine compartment, but im tempted to refill and see if the power steering works when there is some fluid - that would help me identify the leak spot, and conclude that replacing the seals is the fix. I fear that the problem is something more serious. Advice welcome.
Im also looking to replace the worn-out shocks and struts. Do you (or anyone) have suggestions on a street-reasonable upgrade that gives stiffer handling, but not too stiff?
Also need new carpet (yucky), but want to replace floor and door carpet with same style. Can anyone help?
-- Wrenchback

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Tranny leaks: check where speedo cable theads in. There is an o-ring there. Also rear seal where drive line attaches. Both cheap and available.
P Steering: yeah, top it up and see if it at least works. Not a PS expert tho! Def would start hunting down seals.
Shocks: KYB are popular, bit firmer but nice street ride. Sources: Ebay, mazdatrix.com is a great start for RX bits. Rock Auto for basic mechanicals. Atkinsrotary.com also very good for parts. And of course, mazda dealer, if you know your PNs.
Carpet: I know there are sets on sale NOW on ebay. Quality unknown. Door carpet will mean getting pieces and having a local auto trim/upholstery shop do this. These were never avai as a separate piece from the panels, which, of course, are NLA.


Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

1BADRX7

Racing Beat also has parts for the car so be sure to check them as well.

84_GSLSE

I have an 84 GSL-SE, so our cars are very similar. Mine was in rough shape when I got it, and I have learned a lot. I went with Racing Beat springs and Tokico Illumina shocks. I really like the ride. Racing Beat has a suspension package, shocks, springs, new sway bars, and bushings. I got it all and it drives great.
About the idle. Replace all of the vacuum lines. I used silicone hoses from mazdatrix. There are a lot of them. You have to pull the intake to get to them all. When you have the intake off, clean the throttle body. I soaked mine in carb cleaner for a day, then lubricated everything. Those 2 things fixed my idle. 800 rpm steady.
I am daily driving mine. I live in Alabama, so ac is a must. Got that working and couldn't be happier.
good luck with it.
message me if you have questions.

Wrenchback

Thanks for feedback guys.
I am planning to order the Racing Beat suspension components very soon.
First I need to solve the power steering issue. I will fill the reservoir and see if it works, then go from there.
Perhaps foolishly, Ive become irritated by the broken center spring on my shifter, so I bought the spring from Mazdatrix and later realized that the installation of that spring is surprisingly difficult. I am removing the transmission to install the spring. Ive read a number of threads on this forum, and it's now clear to me that this is the only solution. Im a little dissappointed that the Rx7 FB designers didnt give enough space in the shifter housing to remove the block without removing the transmission! If anyone knows how to do it without dropping the tranny, please let me know before this weekend, or I will be in the garage doing it!

Also, to Mr. "84_GSLSE", thanks for the feedback. I will take your advice and try to get my idle back to 800, right now it's at 1150rpm and a little surging.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

IF you do drop the tranny, you should replace its front bearing cover and gasket, as these leak over time. heck, while in there, new TO bearing, clutch bits?

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

https://www.stockinteriors.com/Items...ilterYear=1985

7th Cavalry

I too have a GSL SE, it had a lot of the same problems. A few things i'd like to add. Change fluids in the rear diff also. Don't forget to put some lsd additives in. Maybe a new pinion seal too, while you're there. Next, ignitors. They'll fail without warning. They are expensive to purchase new. I got some used ones from a member here for super cheap. I keep one in a baggie, n my center console. As a preventive measure, remove, clean n reinstall. They are located on the dizzy. They get really hot, they are mounted using a layer of ceramic paste, using the dizzy as a heat sink. 30 year old paste is not good. Finally, I also had the same issue's with high beam/wiper/ cruise. Chased it for awhile, turned out, it's was there combination switch. Remove, clean n reinstall. Problems solved. Putting it back together is a real pita. Work over a towel, to help catch little parts. Look up pineapple racing, that guy knows his stuff. Hopefully some of this helps, show us some pics.

Wrenchback

7th,
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, Ive changed all of the fluids (and used LSD gear oil for the diff).
Thanks for advice on the igniters (I need to learn more about this, Im a rookie)
I need to deal with the "combination switch" next - my headlights will go dark unexpectedly - and this is clearly a big problem for night driving. Any additional advice on this is much appreciated.

Wrenchback

I will buy this carpet (and the extra length so my local interior shop can handle the doors and the sides of the center console).
Thanks.

Wrenchback

Update:
So I spent 5 hours in the garage on saturday and solved the spring issue in my shifter. The good news - it works greate now - perfectly shifting every time. The bad news: it was a real pain in the butt. Here are the details:
I decided to try to replace the spring without removing the transmission - and I succeeded, but it was not easy.
I put the car up on 4 jackstands, and removed the exhaust pipes and heat shields. Then supported the transmission (near the bottom drain plug) with a hydraulic jack and a 5th jackstand. I removed the transmission mount crossmember and lowered the tail of the transmission by about 5 inches. Note, I also loosened the front motor mounts to avoid damaging the front motor mounts.
Once the tail was lowered, I could remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifter on top of the tranny. And here's the trick, to slide the shifter housing off of the shifter shaft, you need to clear two dowel pins located between the 4 bolt locations! This requires a careful lifting of the shifter housing, and a light tap with a rubber hammer. Then the shifter slides off of the shaft (note you have to first remove the bolt that holds the shifter block to the shaft or it wont slide off!!).
Once the shifter is off, then remove the old broken spring and replace with the new spring and reassemble.
Took 5 hours.
Now my shifter is working VERY nicely. A tough job, but very satisfying results!

Wrenchback

My next issue:
On deceleration (and independent of engine RPM) I get a light howling and vibration coming from the rear axle. My car has 180K miles, and I think the diff may be getting tired. Is there a rebuild process to address this? Ive never worked on a diff. Any advice?

tallbozo

iTrader: (5)

I saw this article and thought while back. Has some good info on kits and what parts swap around between different models:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...-help-1122214/

Wrenchback

Argh. Im hoping to keep my vehicle original, with original diff or a diff from an identical vehicle. Are there any shops that specialize in rebuilding the FB differential?
-- Wrenchback

84_GSLSE

The diff isn't anything special. Any transmission shop should be able to work on it. Mine leaked some when I got it, and whined. I drained out the fluid, tightened the bolts around the bell (they were really loose), and put some 90W synthetic fluid in it. No more whining, leaking or anything. My car has 248k on it. I am pretty sure this is the original diff. From what I hear, they are pretty indestructible at stock hp.

Wrenchback

tallbozo

iTrader: (5)

This is Shaun by the way! Glad you got on the forum and welcome to the greatest knowledge center for Rotorheads!

Here is the last picture I have of it before it's long journey to it's new home!

Wrenchback

Wrenchback

Okay, I'm still working on the RX7 daily and am making progress.
I've removed the windshield wipers and lubed them, and now they work great. I also fixed the washer hoses so I can get fresh water on the windshield. Hooray.
Everything works great now.
Slowly but surely this car is becoming a reasonable driver.

Wrenchback

84_GLSLE,
Please tell me more about how you eliminated the howling from the diff. Which bolts were loose?
-- Wrenchback

Wrenchback

FOrum friends,
Is there any place that sells the FB washer fluid level sensor? I need one. Mine is bad. Can it be repaired?
Any advice is appreciated.
-- Wrench

Wrenchback

Forum friends,
Can anyone point me to the most succinct/useful wiring diagram? MY engine compartment is mostly original with a few electrical mods. I'm trying to unravel the mystery of what all of this stuff does. I suspect most of the wires are original, and I'm hoping to match wire color to a known good source. Sure wish I had a factory origin RX7 here to compare
-- Wrench

Wrenchback

Forum friends,
I'm also looking for a company or service to restore my GSL-SE wheels to original condition. They have minor pits, but no major damage. Is there any place/company that can help me? I'm worried that I cant do it myself (lack of skill/tools and I don't want to wreck the finish). I'm not looking for concours, but I want them to look pretty nice for a fair-weather driver.
Car photo above. Any advice is appreciated.
-- Brad