Starfox07

I'm pretty happy with my car after 2 years of owning it. This summer I plan on fixing most everything that needs to be fixed and upgrading it as I go. Here is my plan so far:

Chassis:

-Body
In my never-ending quest to get rid of all rattles and creaks I am looking to put in some front and rear strut tower braces. The front is well documented with setups like the RE-speed adjustable one, but the rear is a more rare item. Do these cars just not need it or what?

I've replaced one of the window channels, and to further reduce wind noise and leaks, I'm going to get new door seals and window seals as well.

-Suspension
I've already gone through and replaced all of the springs and shocks and now the idler arm on the steering. My 'box is still pretty tight so I'm going to leave that be for now. I still feel a bit of slop and I'm trying to hunt it down. Possibly tie-rods, but more than likely a strut issue.

-Brakes
I'm impressed with the feel of the stock brakes, but they could have a bit more bite and a touch firmer pedal. Going with hawk pads and a stainless steel brake-line kit to remedy this. I believe my master cylinder is still in fairly good shape.

-Wheels/Tires
The stock tires have a pretty tall sidewall and you can feel it in the corners. Already have a set of 15" wheels that I'm going to refinish (anyone know about re-chroming a set of aluminum wheels?) and mounting up some fresh rubber. I'll probably go with 205/50's or something similar.


Engine:
This is still my daily driver and looks like that is not going to change for a while. I have full exhaust and the noise level is acceptable. One annoying this a sort of resonance 'whistling' when the car is cold. I imagine its something to do with the mufflers and it is mildly annoying.

In my quest for proper 6 port operation, I think I'm going to rob a set of actuators off of an S5 car and rig them up to work. Tired of pressure-diaphragm actuators that don't work with my header. Links to this mod would earn you much love.

I will be buying the Richard Sohe (can't remember his last name off the top of my head) OMP adapter/auxiliary oiling system when I return from pikes peak, and also rebuilding the OMP (it's beginning to look pretty black down there) I see this as something Mazda should have implemented from the factory. The prospect of pre-mix to me is an awful idea, I don't know how you guys have the patience for that! Other than those few gripes the engine is still running absolutely fantastic. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

While I'm in the engine bay, I'm also going to replace the belts and oil-pan seal. Next oil change me thinks.

Coolant flush is sadly overdue. I keep forgetting about this one.

Interior/Aesthetics:

I really love the 'flying roof' look that first gen rx7's pull of so well. To emphasize it I'm going to go with a fairly dark tint all around. Also should keep some of the radiant heat out here in Texas. I'm debating on whether or not to get a CD player for my car. I love the factory radio and how it looks, so it is a tough decision for me. I hate how aftermarket head units look. I DEFINITELY need new speakers however, that is not a debatable problem.

Any comments or further suggestions would be appreciated. Feel free to pick any one thing out of that large, disjointed rant to comment on or give feedback on it all, it's up to you. I'll keep this thread updated as I whittle the list down.

My end goal is to have a GSL-SE that is just a nice car to live with and drive every day, yet still be fun. It is hard to separate 'fun' and 'rx7' so that last bit isn't as much a concern.

Happy wanking....errr...wankeling...

Rotarx7

iTrader: (3)

that is the only thing i cant stand with my car:

the never-ending quest to get rid of all rattles and creaks

Kentetsu

No need for a rear strut bar, they serve no purpose other than a place to attach a harness. There is a reason there is nothing out there in the aftermarket for rear bars.

For the front bar, if you don't plan to race then spring for the triangulated Respeed bar. If you do plan to autocross or something, then go for the straight bar to avoid being classed with the monster cars.

Hawk pads are GREAT. I love mine. I used to go through a set of pads every six months or so, but I've had these on for nearly two years and they are still in great shape. I also installed the cheapest rotors that Rockauto sells (about 15 bucks each) and that has proven to be an excellent choice. Rotors are still in perfect shape after two years. Very little dusting with the Hawk pads as well.

Don't neglect swaybars either if you don't have upgraded units yet. They make a hell of a difference in the handling of the car, but have very little effect on ride quality (no harshness). Again, the Respeed unit is the best of the best as long as you can afford it (worth every penny and then some), otherwise the RB bar will do the job at the cost of 20 pounds or so.






.

Bobbo

iTrader: (4)

amen to that!!!!!!!!!!!

that's the biggest reason my car is stripped of everything but the dash!!!!!!!

Starfox07

Yeah I didn't think about the swaybars. Definitely add that to the list. Not planning on autocrossing her at this point in time.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I had a whistle for some time on my car. Turned out to be an intake leak.

Starfox07

Did the whistling emanate from the front of the car or out of the tailpipe? Mine is coming out of the tailpipe and I think it is because my front muffler is fragged.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

if i get some 15s (for the rear) i'm thinking about getting 225 50 15 for the rear. i currently have 205 50 15 front. I'm a prime example of what not to do when modding a car, buying part of a kit... i have the 5 lug front conversion, but no rear lol i hope to finish before september

hawk brake pads are great, and cheaper than upgrading to 5lug.

struts shouldn't cause slop in steering, you might be noticing it more because of other mods

Starfox07

It's not so much the steering just the front end in general. It's like I hit a bump and there is a brief shutter in the suspension before the shocks/springs absorb it.

Kentetsu

Based on that description, I believe you are on the right track. Struts would be the likely suspect...

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

I like the look of this Kenwood MP642U. The lack of buttons and dual **** layout look like older units, and the illumination color can be changed to red so it'll match the gauges.

Starfox07

I checked the stop strut bolts and one of them was not even compressing the lock washer. Oops.

I tightened them a bit, but I can't tighten them that much because it just spins the strut. Any ideas on how to get it tight?

Kentetsu

Yep, an impact wrench. Either stop by a tire shop and ask them to hit it for you (will probably do it for free if they are a decent bunch), or you can pick up a fairly decent electric model from Harbor Freight for about 50 bucks (I have one, and it works pretty well).

Starfox07

I have an impact so I can do it myself. I just don't have any impact sockets at the moment :/

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

you can use regular sockets with teh impact wrench....expecially for this application.

Starfox07

What do you guys think about a sort of classic jdm-type front air dam for my car? Had someone do a photoshop:



I can't find any for S3's so I think I'm going to build one.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

it doesn't flow with the lines of the car... it looks kind of backwards...