Fog Lights
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 983
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From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
I ordered a set of fogs on ebay for 10 bucks (new in box) and I think their similar to yours Perfectseven. Their a bit more rectangluar but same look. I think thats how I'll mount mine up too
I have similar fogs on both my FB's mounted in the same spot, they work really well especially since they are from Wal-Mart lol. Make sure you wire in a good relay, I wouldn't trust the wiring that comes with the low cost fogs (like the ones I bought)
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The image was took last weekend, during our second rally.... "Rallyestone 09" in Bilbao (Spain), we managed to finish in the second position....


I have my fogs on a relay triggered from the parking lights. This way they are always on when the headlights are and I have the added advantage of the buzzer telling me to turn them off if I forget. You could make it a little more complicated if you wanted and add a switch in if you wanted to have the parking lights on without the fogs.
If you'll excuse my use of MS Paint, the circuit is pretty simple. The relay I have labeled is the standard Bosch 30A relay commonly used in automotive applications. Some of the fog light kits come with the relay already. If your kit does not come with a relay, you can get one like this.
I've also included where you would add the switch if you wanted to be able to have your parking lights on without the fog lights.
I've also included where you would add the switch if you wanted to be able to have your parking lights on without the fog lights.
Most of the lights I´ve been looking at include the wire, the Relay and the switch to turn them on. In all of them the switch has a bright green or yelow light, wich is really anoying driving at night....
In my case I´ve put the switch under the steering wheel in a place not to far to turn it on with the hand while driving but not to near to blind you while driving.
Here in spain is also mandatory to take the power of the fog lights from the normal lights, because we are not supose to drive with foglights on but normal lights off..... is there the same thing in the US??
In adittion to the relay, I would recomend to put a fuse in the middle, just to protect the system in case the alternator get crazy
In my case I´ve put the switch under the steering wheel in a place not to far to turn it on with the hand while driving but not to near to blind you while driving.
Here in spain is also mandatory to take the power of the fog lights from the normal lights, because we are not supose to drive with foglights on but normal lights off..... is there the same thing in the US??
In adittion to the relay, I would recomend to put a fuse in the middle, just to protect the system in case the alternator get crazy
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 983
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Here is my final write up with pictures included for the installation of my fog lights.
First things first, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery as to not shock yourself and/or blow any fuses. Don't connect the positive connection for the lights to the positive of the battery until everything is grounded and everything is connected correctly. I cut a hole in the rubber plug in the surround around the radiator and ran the wires for the fog lights down through it. I then grounded the first of the two grounds to the post on which the battery sits. Next i connected the ground for the switch to the front drivers side fender. I then popped out the little cover in the firewall by unbolting it from the inside behind the pedals. I pull all the extra wire into the cockpit of the car and taped up the slack. I then ran the switch for the lights into the compartments where the power window switches would be. I put it to the ON position and replaced the trim piece, hiding the switch completely. I tucked that wire up under the trim around the shifter to conceal that as well. Then the tough part came along. I took apart the trim around the steering wheel and ignition I hooked the power wire for the switch into the wiring for the parking lights switch (see picture). This means that the fog lights are only powered when the parking lights for all the lights are on. This prevents me from having the deal with the toggle switch. To get a better look, here are all the pictures of the install:

Connection to the battery (+)

One of the ground, to the drivers side fender

The second ground the the battery post

Wire through the rubber plug in on the radiator surround

Wire coming down in front of the radiator to the fog lights

Wires going through the firewall

The switch for the lights

How it looks with the trim in place, concealing the switch

The wire to the switch, hidden under the trim around the shifter

This is the plug i used to give the switch power ONLY when the parking and full lights are on. Its the bottom row of wires in the wire farthest to the passenger side of the
car.

The wire from the parking lights switch

The extra wire taped out of the way
First things first, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery as to not shock yourself and/or blow any fuses. Don't connect the positive connection for the lights to the positive of the battery until everything is grounded and everything is connected correctly. I cut a hole in the rubber plug in the surround around the radiator and ran the wires for the fog lights down through it. I then grounded the first of the two grounds to the post on which the battery sits. Next i connected the ground for the switch to the front drivers side fender. I then popped out the little cover in the firewall by unbolting it from the inside behind the pedals. I pull all the extra wire into the cockpit of the car and taped up the slack. I then ran the switch for the lights into the compartments where the power window switches would be. I put it to the ON position and replaced the trim piece, hiding the switch completely. I tucked that wire up under the trim around the shifter to conceal that as well. Then the tough part came along. I took apart the trim around the steering wheel and ignition I hooked the power wire for the switch into the wiring for the parking lights switch (see picture). This means that the fog lights are only powered when the parking lights for all the lights are on. This prevents me from having the deal with the toggle switch. To get a better look, here are all the pictures of the install:

Connection to the battery (+)

One of the ground, to the drivers side fender

The second ground the the battery post

Wire through the rubber plug in on the radiator surround

Wire coming down in front of the radiator to the fog lights

Wires going through the firewall

The switch for the lights

How it looks with the trim in place, concealing the switch

The wire to the switch, hidden under the trim around the shifter

This is the plug i used to give the switch power ONLY when the parking and full lights are on. Its the bottom row of wires in the wire farthest to the passenger side of the
car.

The wire from the parking lights switch

The extra wire taped out of the way
I'm sorry, but your way of wiring the lights is not the best approach. Why take the main power from the battery terminal. There is a good source on the main fusable link block which will look cleaner. As well, the bolt you chose as a ground is not threaded to the body (ground). That is the battery tie down, and while it may be grounded now, it is not solid due to the fact its only contact to ground is a hook through a hole.
Also I see no reference to a fuse, which is very important and should be as close as possible to the place you take your 12V from. There is no grommet on the wires passing through the firewall, leaving no strain relief from the wires vibrating over time and grounding out to the firewall. This coupled with a lack of fuse could cause a fire.
Finally, to clean things up a bit, you could have taken the parking light signal for the relay from a wire closer to the engine bay and run the wire along the existing wire loom under the battery tray instead of on the top of the rad.
I'm not trying to put you down, but I don't want others to get the idea that it is a good idea to run without fuses and strain relief on the wires passing through the firewall.
Also I see no reference to a fuse, which is very important and should be as close as possible to the place you take your 12V from. There is no grommet on the wires passing through the firewall, leaving no strain relief from the wires vibrating over time and grounding out to the firewall. This coupled with a lack of fuse could cause a fire.
Finally, to clean things up a bit, you could have taken the parking light signal for the relay from a wire closer to the engine bay and run the wire along the existing wire loom under the battery tray instead of on the top of the rad.
I'm not trying to put you down, but I don't want others to get the idea that it is a good idea to run without fuses and strain relief on the wires passing through the firewall.
Last edited by Sgt Fox; May 4, 2009 at 12:28 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 983
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From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
There is a fuse built into the wiring harness right after the 12V+ connection to the battery that I didn't get a picture of and the wires going through the firewall are held in place by a rubber seal that that i put in to prevent water from getting into the car and to help with the vibration you were talking about.
Good point about the ground on the battery tie down rod. Apparently I'm an idiot and completely blanked that haha. I'll have to move that when i get the chance.
As far as pulling the power from somewhere else, where would you recommend?
Good point about the ground on the battery tie down rod. Apparently I'm an idiot and completely blanked that haha. I'll have to move that when i get the chance.
As far as pulling the power from somewhere else, where would you recommend?











