swbtm

iTrader: (2)

I figured it was some knock off of the Kamei, either would really improve the front of the car, especially if they matched with the stock side skirt lines.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

It's not a knock off of the Kamei but a completely different air dam all together. Black Dragon used to sell it when they were still Victoria British

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

yay, i learned something new!! Any idea if they are still being made/sold?

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

That is a cool look for the SA's that still want to keep a stock front bumper. Sadly, I have no SA bumper or Kamei air dam to modify and replicate-but that would be a few months away anyway. I'll try to get some pics posted soon-as soon as the materials arrive and I'll get you some good pics of the GP-1 kit, swbtm. That's a good excuse to test-fit it to my car seeing as how I've already removed the stock front and rear bumpers. I'll let you know if there's any modification that needs to be done to the reinforcement piece too...

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Nice! That's great info to know... Good luck with the install

Peter

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Pics are downloading now on photobucket.com from the Extreme Dimensions GP-1 body kit install. There is going to be a bit of modification to the bumper reinforcements required to fit both the front and rear bumper cover replacements, but the kit lines up fairly well with the FB's body and lines...

I had to steal the network cable from the computer at work to get online with my laptop (horrible wireless signal). I'm off the clock, so I have to work quickly to get back so I can make some $. swbtm, I don't have a paint program on my laptop (only turboCAD-and I can't modify pics with that) so I'll have to post links to the pics. I'll try to post a link to my album there also, since I have a few other interesting pics there...

Basically, the front bumper reinforcement will need to be modified (or the bumper shocks, which is most likely what I'll do) and recessed about an inch to properly fit the front cover. The factory "hangers" for the stock front cover will need to be removed. In the rear, the center of the reinforcement is going to have to be cut out or the entire rear reinforcement piece may have to be shaved almost flat-the replacement bumper cover seems to pivot around the license plate area. My plans to fit the kit are to cut and reweld the front bumper shocks back by one inch and retain the stock aluminum reinforcement piece for the time being (I'd like to make a fiberglass mold of it to save on weight in the near future, and possibly make a modified version to fit this body kit without having to cut or weld on your bumper shocks). I may end up making a mold of the factory rear reinforcement also, but I believe I'll retain my stock aluminum piece for better weight distribution...

As you can see in the pics, the side skirts are going to require some work to line up correctly at the top of both ends with the front fender and rear quarter panel. Overall, their length is almost perfect-they line up fore and aft with the fender and rear wheelwell very nicely. If you purchase this kit you should plan on purchase some additional mounting hardware of the flush-headed self-threading variety. The finish of all the pieces is much better than I had anticipated when I bought the kit. There are a few places that will require finishing work (as to be expected with fiberglass, "duraglass", and similar composites), but most all exposed surfaces are smooth as a baby's ***...

Wait-swbtm, I think I've found a paint program to reduce the size of the images...Let me try to attach them here...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

swbtm, you're great! Thanks for the info and advice on posting pics-I've got it now! Here's some more of the front, then I'll reply back with pics of the side skirts and rear bumper cover replacement test-fitted...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Side skirts test-fitted...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Rear replacement bumper cover test-fitted...

I have to chase the threads in my rear bumper reinforcement, so that's the main reason the rear piece is sagging on the left side. This is just test-fitted to see what kind of modifications are required to properly install this kit...In other words, I just quickly threw it on and snapped some pics for you guys. There is no retaining hardware in the piece...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

More rear pics...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

And a couple more of the rear...

I know a lot of people have been skeptical of this piece so I tried to get as many angles of it as I could. They could've designed it better, but it really doesn't look too bad in person...

swbtm

iTrader: (2)

Looking good, you probably already covered this... are you going to shave/trim the edges to make a smooth transition from dura to metal? I'm thinking of this for the top of the skirts and the back edge of the front bumper...

good luck with everything

RustyRotary

iTrader: (2)

Love the front, though the rear seems kinda boxy and big. Nice install

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Man that peice is hot...i wonder what it will look like when it's done

djessence

Wait what kit is that from?

Love the front. Didnt really look at the rest. Don't like the back. So you know if you have photo bucket. Copy the "direct link" address from photobucket and click on the "insert image" button, looks like a mountain and paste that address in the line provided. It will then appear full size in the thread instead of linking to another tab/window.

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

DJ-thanks for the info-I'll try that next time I post a pic. That's the Extreme Dimensions GP-1 kit. It's only been around for about a year or so. I followed the thread posted by the guy that had loaned his car to E.D. for the build...

I also fell in love with the front piece, but I had my doubts about the rear from all the pics that I'd seen. I still don't really car much for it, but I figured I'd do something with it in the future. The lower portion of it needs to be sloped inward more, and it really should have a bit of a curve around the reinforcement-a gentle radiused arc from the center to the edges would have made it look much more attractive. But if you're looking to eliminate the factory moulding around the bumpers, there really isn't any other choice-YET...


My first shipment of materials and supplies arrived Yesterday! I've got enough epoxy resin, hardener, release agent, silica, graphite powder, tools, cloth, and misc. stuff to start making some molds now. I've got a solid plan for making the mold for the flat rear panel (the piece between the taillights for you guys that haven't been following this thread) and a jig for epoxying the bolts or retaining studs to the rear of the production pieces. It's going to take at least a few days to a week (hopefully no longer than that) for me to get those together, and a day or two after that I should be test-fitting those to make sure the dimensions are correct. I have to squeeze in a bit of work here and there to make sure I have at least a bit of cash to feed my boy (I hate my crappy job-that's been my inspiration for making the parts), but I'll do what I can to start turning out some parts ASAP...

Once I've gotten at least one quality, useable mold and fastener jig for the rear panel, I think I'll move on to crafting an original vented header panel to make a mold from. That piece is a bit more complex, so that may still be a month or so away, but I've got some NACA-style scoops on order (and I'm hunting down as many styles as I can find) that I can make molds of and use in various pieces I'll be constructing.

I have also placed another order from "Fiberglasssite.com" for a big quantity of matting, release agents, more tools, and more epoxy. I'm completely serious about making these parts not only for myself, but for you guys also. If the demand for certain products is huge, they'll most likely move up on my "to make" list. So far, I've got almost $700 invested in this venue in materials, supplies, and tools, and that's just between the two orders I've placed in the last week. I already own all the other body working tools that I need for this, so that's been a big plus for me. Anyway, I'll make sure to post pics and keep you guys updated as often as possible...

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

If you build it they will come.............you have to make a profit but don't gouge us, 1st gen guys are "generally" cheap but we appreciate quality and will pay for the right parts.

Can you say bolt on flares, Group C style

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Aussiesmg, that's my plan...I'm not going to rape anybody with prices but I do want to make a bit of a profit so I can continue to work on these parts. Prices will be as low as possible, but quality will be the top priority. As with all fiberglass products, there will be some finishing work involved, but I'll make 100% sure that fitment is correct and hardware/fasteners are located in the right places. I can't post exact figures here, but I will once parts are avaliable. I'd like to take advantage of the three-month group buy rates now, that way I can post the products and prices once they become avaliable in the "group buy" forum. Don't worry guys, even the tightest of penny-pinchers will find a deal from me...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Pics of my first batch of materials and supplies that I'd ordered...

All top quality stuff-West System epoxy resin and components...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

I don't think anybody's really been holding their breath for this stuff, but I promise you guys I'm trying! I'm having problems that I hadn't planned on *making* an original flush & flat rear panel-not any problems associated with the fiberglass materials or processes, just problems building a piece suitable to make a mold from. My "solid" idea was to use plywood (3/8" thick, same thickness as stock rear panel) and cut it down to the dimensions I needed because my factory rear panel is totally worthless. My car has sat in the sun so long the rear panel had just warped all to hell, making it impossible to build a mold from...

So I thought-"I'll just cut some plywood down to different dimensions-from stock size to even closer tolerances for a tighter fit, then use a router to radius the edges and cover it with bondo, finally sanding it down and use that for the original mold." Well, I lack any real wood-working tools, like a table saw that has a 24" capacity and a router. A guy at Lowe's Hardware said he could cut the plywood for twenty-five cents a cut. Great! Problem solved-I'll have Lowe's do it! NOT-those bastards use a SHEET SAW-an inaccurate hack of a tool that's only good for cutting large panels within a quarter-inch of what you need. I need tighter tolerances than that-I need a table saw and I need to operate it. The idiot at Lowe's was just hacking away at the plywood I bought, not even caring if the measurements were correct or not. Hell, he was going to mark all four rows off before cutting any! I had to tell him not to bother after the third cut, but luckily for me they were all just a bit oversized so I can trim them down after I find a good table saw to rent. I've got four 4' rows (should've ended up with five but I stopped the poor boy from wasting his time and my money)-they were supposed to be one at 21", one at 20.875", one at 20.75", and the last at 20.625", but I have one at 20.9675", one at 20.875", one at 20.8425", and one big one left from the 8' long sheet. I can work with these and cut them to size with a table saw, but the sheet saw just wasn't working...

To make a long story short, I'm behind schedule on the rear panel. Sorry guys, I'm moving on until I source the tools I need to finish my original. I have been practicing with the cloth and epoxy resin though. I've made molds of those little plastic pieces that sit in the rear corner of the rear quarter glass and molds of some NACA ducts that I got from ebay. The NACA duct molds are too thin to really use, but I was really just practicing. Actual molds for products I plan to sell with be thicker than my laptop...

Here's some pics to hold you guys over for a few more days...

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

I still have to order some white powder for the gel-coat. The NACA ducts you see in these pics (white ones-black ones are the thin molds I made) are the ones I got from ebay...

I think I'll do a wiper cowl next, with a gauge pod. I've got one almost ready to go-just a bit more filler and lots more sanding time. If it turns out OK, I'll make a good mold of it and start selling them. The rear panel will have to wait at least another week, maybe more if I can't get a table saw and router anytime soon...

I'm dying to get started on a vented header panel also. I'll have to make it in three pieces, but each mold will still be just one piece. I'll drill out the factory spot welds and mold the side pieces that mount it, then when the vent (or NACA duct) is right in it I'll make a mold of it...

Please bear with me guys-don't give up! I'm busting my *** working on this stuff and trying to earn some cash when I'm not. I will be turning out parts, just not the rear panel on the schedule I set for myself. You'll see some kick-*** stuff soon-I promise you!

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Please keep the ideas coming-what do you want in your header panel? A vent? A NACA duct? A *****? Give me some ideas here guys...

djjjr42

I look forward to seeing what you put together. Regarding a rear panel, are you referring to one in between the back lights? There is such a panel on an FB I just bought. It's a red reflective lens type plastic, with the RX-7 logo on it:

ForsakenRX7

Needs to be a duct. No point in venting out air there. Air needs to flow in before the radiator and flow out after. I'm sure you know that, I'm just sayin though.
Look to some of the available designs for the 300zx. They have a variety of styles for their duct panels.

FIBREMAZ

So 10kg's or more weight difference is nothing...that's a bold statement