aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, decided to go ahead and do my axle bearings even tho im going to swap out the axle as soon as I find a GSL axle. Not only did it sound like a helicopter was following me everywhere I went but there was a good 1/8th of an inch movent in the axle so went ahead and did them, didnt was to lose an wheel and axle driving down the road lol. Did this in my driveway and it went pretty smoothly, heres a list of the tools I needed to get the job done in case someone else out there needs to get this done on the cheap. Also I could never find the insde diameter of the pipe everyone talked about useing to get the sleeve on that buts up against the bearing dont know if its supposed to be a secret or something but best it I could find was a 1 1/4 inch steel pipe 30 inches long did the trick, lowes had one precut for $14 and change.

Tools....
-10mm line wrench, a reg box end wrench will work to.
-12mm wrench or socket and ratchet
-Good pair of pliers
-Phillips head scredriver
-Flat head screwdriver
-Cold chisel
-Big slide hammer
-Sledge hammer
-Jack
-Jack stand
-Wheel blocks
-Bench vise preferably one with a pipe holder on it ( can be done without but really makes it alot easier to hammer open the sleeve or coller)
-Angle grinder with cutting disc (needs air compressor) a dremel tool and cutting disc could also be used just a little slower cutting.
-1 1/4 inch x 30 inch steel pipe

First.... safety lol chock the front wheels both of them, were going to be lifting the rear axle off the ground so the emergency brake isnt going to mater, putting it in gear is not going to stop it from rolling down your driveway with only the front wheels on the ground. Alright with the wheels chocked lets jack the rearend up and place a jackstand under the side you want to take out, I sat mine down where the rear swaybar connects to the axle housing. Now you can let the jack down so that only the one side is off the ground, next chock the rear wheel thats on the ground for added safety ( please guys take it from me you dont want to see your car rolling down the driveway without you in it) I only do one side at a time when im removing an axle, this way I dont have to drain the fluid and mess with that. Now we can take off the wheel, the 2 phillips screws holding the drum on, then remove the shoes keeping note where each spring goes and how you take the adjuster out. Im not going into a whole lot of detail in this part because if you dont know how to take your rear brakes off you dont need to be tackling this job. Not trying to be a dick but if not done right you can lose an axle and screw your car up and possibly you if your driving fast enought when it happens, if something up to this point has confused you put it back together and save up the money to pay someone to do this. With the brakes out of the picture, you need to get the hand brake cable out of the backing plate, theres a little metal clip you need to pop out after that is where mine was a pain, I used alot of pb blaster and a good pair of pliers to just work it lose and out. Next are the brake lines going into the wheel cylinder, 2 lines on left side, 1 line and 1 bleeder right side. When you crack the lines you are going to need to bleed it after it goes back together to get the air out, but to not make a huge mess I grabbed a rubber glove cut 2 fingers off and ziptied those around the lines. Next theres 4 12 mm nuts on the back of the backing plate, remove those and your ready to slide your axle out. Mine was stubborn and needed a slide hammer to coax it out, I brought mine from work but im pretty sure most auto parts stores rent them out. Now its time to bust out the grinder and get that sleeve and bearing off, you can do this in your lap or on a table just becarefull not to mess up the splines that go into the diff, your best bet is going to be putting it in a vise with a pipe holder in it. I slide an old bike inner tube over mine to keep from scaring it cranked the vise down on it but not to much. Now what you wanna do first is go grab your saftey glasses, hot glowing metal in your eyes isnt fun, now take the grinder and cutt a slot in the sleeve at least halfway thru just be carefull not to go to far and cut into the axle, and dont use heat for this, it does work but it WILL warp your axle. Grab your chisel and hammer and wedge it in the slot you cut untill the sleeve starts to spread and you can tap it off, after that the bearing should come off fairly easily compared to the sleeve but if it gives you trouble use the same method you did with the sleeve. With the old crap off take the axle out of the vise and find a peice of wood you can sit it on, sit it where the axle splines are pointing to the sky, grab a rag and some brake clean and clean the axle, get all the grease and oil off of where the sleeve goes this is important. That sleeve is what holds your axle against the backing plate, it NEEDS to be hard to get on, if its to easy you need a smaller sleeve or a new axle, since im doing this in a driveway I have no means of measureing how much force I used to put it on, mazda says something like 2.7 tons of force anything less and you need a diff sleeve or new axle so with that being said you need to use your better judgement if it goes on to easily you need to stop and get a new axle or smaller sleeve. Ok were ready to start with putting the new bearing on, start with the backing plate it goes on first, then the bearing then the sleeve. The bearing should go on fairly easy, just make sure it buts up against the lip. Now for the fun bit, (note- theres a beveled end on the sleeve, that faces away from the bearing) grab your peice of steel pipe and slide it over the axle with the sleeve in place and work it down, I used a 20 lb sledge and it still gave some resistance so im pretty sure its on there good, but again use your own judgement if it goes on to easy stop. Now just make sure that sleeve buts up nice ant tight against the bearing and you be done, slide that bad boy back in the axle houseing bolt the backing plate in, you might need to give the axle a tap or 2 to get the bearing all the way in. Put the brakes back on, hook up your lines and hand brake cable and drum, throw your wheel on bolt it down let it off the jack stand and take her for a drive and yes the helicopter did quit following you lol. Well hope this helps anyone out there thinking about doing this themselves or more importantly help someone decide this is over there head before they take out there axle and start messing stuff up. All in all for me it went pretty easy and yay no more noisey rearend. Oh well that was all my fun today, later guys time to go hit some of the backroads up around here, will be my first time in this car, didnt want to hit it up with the rear makeing the noises it was but now its on lol. I used to be able to hit some of these curves doing 50-60 in 40-50 apex and 50-60 out but this was my N/A civic with a really good suspesion setup on 15x7 205 falkens, finnaly time to see what this stock RX-7 can do, wish me luck guys lol

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Heres a few more that I couldnt fit in the above post.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

And some more, cant figure out how to put more than 5-6 pics at a time lol

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Well been a few since I updated, got the RX-7 running like a champ now^^ I did a bunch of stuff at once so cant pinpoint what made such a huge differance. To start I replaced my fuel filter, did it when I first bought the car but it had stuff sitting in the bottom so changed that out, and the in line one up by the carb. I test drove it after that to go up to the parts store again but it didnt seem to make much of a differance. After I got back I read up on the factory carb settings and adjusting everything, choke, idle, co etc. and decided to make sure everything was inspec and adjusted properly there. As soon as I got the air filter and housing off and started messing with the throtle cable and linkage I noticed a bar and spring not hooked up, went back in pulled up the carb manual I downloaded form someone on here, I found out its the sub throttle return spring the little thing on the end that hold it on the main return spring I guess was backed off some and about to fall off. Dose anyone know how much it needs to be screwd down? the only thing I could find in the manual was dont take it off lol. Other than that i adjusted my pedles and cleaned up the play in the throttle cable and now its a bat out a hell lol, like a night and day differance. And there really wasnt to much play in throttle cable so what exactly does that sub throttle return spring do? I dont have my camera up at work with me so cant get a pic untill I get home. Ill post some then but any ideas guys?

boyee

iTrader: (3)

props for that writeup! looks like all that typing mustve taken a while and made your hands/fingers ache. and congrats on getting your maya gold FB up and running better and better each time! they are simply a blast to work on and even more fun to drive!

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Hey hey everyone, hope all is going well for everyone else this holiday. Well been a while since my last update, been saving up my money after talking with Kentetsu about my suspension and getting his advise, thank you very much Kentetsu, saved up what I needed for my respeed/illumina setup. Had everything in my cart and about to confirm everything when I decided im doing this wrong lol. As much as I want my suspension dialed in, a kick *** suspension isnt going to do me a bit of good if my engine isnt running well. So decided to putt the suspension on the back burner for a couple more weeks and focus on getting my engine dialed in first, on that note I orderd up a carb rebuild kit (same one sterling uses), 2 msd coils ( going to scavenge the 6al box out of my camaro), thermostat, waterpump, upper/lower rad hoses, heater and oil cooler hoses, starter, acv blockoff plate from RB, dual alt pully and stayrod bushings from respeed, moog idler arm, tie rod and sleeves, pair of lower control arms new with ball joints and bushings already in, some used lower rear arms ( one of mine looks like it has a slight bend) and a new set of bushings for upper lower rear arms and bushings for watts link. lol breath. Next paycheck im going to takle the front brakes, steel braided lines, new rotors, new bearings, pads, booster and master, ive somewhat adressed the rear brakes already and going to leave them as is since im swapping out to a gsl axle anyway. After brakes will be the clutch system, clutch, pp, t.bearing, p. bearing, flywheel, c. master and slave and a stainless steel clutch line depending on my mood I might rebuild the gearbox when I do the clutch and send the driveshaft out to be checked/rebalanced. After all that I think I should be good to go and ready to start on the handling aspect. A new suspension all around sounds really sexy but with my luck, id get it all in take it for a short drive to get a taste of it and then it wouldnt start the next time I went to drive it lol. Ok only have a ew parts gatherd so far, mostly the cooling sys so im going to do that and the coils tommorow and ill get some pics up as well. Heres a few pics of what I did today, was a little slow at work so yanked my old starter out and tossed in a reman one.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Also tried to clean up a fogged up taillight. Got it off no prob, threw it in the over for about 10 min at 225 opening the door regularly and checking it. Popped the clear lens part off and got my headlight buffer out thinking it would work but it didnt. After looking at it closely it looks like it was taken apart before to be defogged and I think the fumes from the glue used to put it back together refogged it to the point of no return, so just a heads up to anyone that tries to fix theres, be carefull of the sealant you use, or just use it sparingly. Theres also alot of it on here so it might have just been the amount of it that hazed the lens.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i applaud you for doing the axle bearings by hand. i have only used a friend's machine shop with that has thr proper hydraulic press for the bearings and collars and its rough there sometimes as well. good job.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Thanks mazdaverx713b, wish the shop I work at had the right press so I would know for sure how many tons it took to put on, a sledge and pipe in the drive way not to accurate lol. It did take some really good swings with the sledge to get it all the way down so im pretty confident its good, and ive been checking it once a week at work and still no play so collar not backing off.

Figures, I finnaly get a 3 day weekend to do some bigger jobs that take more than a day to finish up and the weather takes a **** on me lol. Going to wait till its not quite so cold to do my water pump, the pooky would never dry and i would probably end up sick. Got my coils in tho and that cleared up alot of my higher rpm issues and I think it might be idling smoother cant really tell, idled pretty smooth before new coils. Also found out I need a new flywheel, keep finding a rough spot when I start but only occasionaly so new clutch/flywheel and assorted bearings will be bumpd up to next on the list of things to do.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Alright, finnaly found the right waterpump, the ones I was getting would bolt up but after that they wouldnt turn without grinding on the waterpump housing, the impeler was to big. So almost done with the cooling system, did waterpump, thermostat, all coolant hoses and rad flush. All thats left is to find a good e-fan, but as my clutch fan seems to be working good and after doing the water pump is ALOT quieter im just going to stick with that untill I upgrade my alt with the gm 105 amp. My ignition system is also almost up to par, did the rotor and cap when I did the water pump and coils the day before and today I went ahead and pulled my 6al box out of the camaro today, not going to put it in the Rx7 yet tho, going to wait untill I get some good wires. Heres some pics, hope to have more to update tommorow, later guys.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Heres a few more pics and a video if I can get it uploaded, theres kinda like valve train noise on a piston motor, kinda sounds like its coming from the air pump maybe, dont know for sure any thoughts?

Video

http://s1003.photobucket.com/albums/...t=133_0487.mp4

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

LOL, got home today to findout a UPS truck vomited on my porch, had a pretty big stack of boxes just sitting there, hate the way they do that you would think they would do something a little more secure then leave a ton of boxes on my doorstep but no. Soooo looks like I have a busy weekend ahead of me, rebuild carb, hook up msd, take off air pump and put on double alt pully. And maybe my stay rod bushings if I get them in time. Had time to hook up the MSD today when I got my wires, but decided to wait untill I do the carb and get my fuel pump in. When I put the MSD on my camaro I had a some issues with the carb and the MSD masked it, only reson I noticed something was I was getting even worse gas milage when I put the box on. So to make it easier on me to tune my carb up after the rebuild ill just wait on the MSD a little longer, really want to hook it up but im hoping doing it this way will save me future headaches. Still havent figured out that tick im hearing from the engine bay, im pretty sure its not engine related but maybe oil pump? or airpump maybe, when I rev the motor not moving listening or the noise it almost sounds like its a step behind the engine rpm when I give it gas. Like the ticking speeds up at a differnt speed at first but stays steady with the rpm after initial throtle blip, any ideas guys? Oh yeah and the wireset I bought was really worth it, I was able to squeeze 3 sets of wires out of it with a few spare parts I had laying around from other jobs at work

acekid7

iTrader: (1)

check if your spark plugs are on tight. I would get the same noise on my when forgot to tighten them and left them hand tight. don't put them too tight just snug.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Happy new years guys and gals, been putting it off a bit but its finnaly time to pull the carb off and give her a good scrubbin. Did a bunch of reading up on the sterling site and on mazspeeds site before hand to figure out what the trouble spots would be before I got to it getting the carb out. All the reading up I did prolly saved me an hour in getting the carb off, probably could have done it quicker if id removed all the emisions before but all in all it was pretty simple just like everything else seems to be on this car (except the beehive oil cooler, mazda went out of their way to make that difficult lol). Was pretty surprised how clean the inside of it was to, in the pic at the bottom you can see the float bowls and theres some junk in the bottom but not what I was expecting to see when I popped her open. Im thinking the couple cans of seafoam that ive run through the car since ive had it might have clean it up a bit, or maybe the carb has been cleand up and rebuilt in the past who knows but it cleaned up good today. Not quite all the way done, maybe 75% got the airhorn and throttle body all done just need to finish cleaning the bottom and bolt it all back together and slap her on the car. I pretty much just followed sterllings nikki page and it was a breeze, would of much rather just sent him my carb to work his magic on but he seems pretty busy, maybe when I can find a spare ill send him that so my car isnt down for to long. Got my acv blockoff plate on and the airpump taken out as well, going to put my dual alt pully on tommorow and finnish up the msd install if I can get the carb on and tuned tank dropped and checked for crap in it and new fuel pump and filters on. Friday at work I made a couple brackets to give me more mounting options for the box and only had to drill one hole to mount it, was able to use an already tapped hole for the top one, its going to be moved anyway just need to get the battery out and find a new spot for it which I might do tommorow if I have daylight left, already have all the cable I need so would just have to go grab a sealed battery. So I have a rather busy day tommorow, kinda wondering how important the dashpot and anti-after burner are and if I can leave them off without any issues? I plan on keeping my choke but the secondary vac box wont be going back on, decided to go mechanical secondaries since it was off and very easy to work the throttle and see where to tie down to have them both fully open at WOT. Am I forgetting anything I can remove not really looking for performance just trying to simplify everything under the hood. Thanks for all the advice ive gotten guys, my rx7 would probably be dead in the backyard by the camaro if not for this site and all the help from everyone on here later guys. Hope it all goes back together smoothly with no issues, wish me luck guys

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah thought id throw out there a trick my dad taught me to make a quick gasket. All you need is the part you need a gasket for any thin cardboard ( me and my dads #1 choice is cereal boxes) and a ball peen hammer. Just hold the cardboard over the surface you need a gasket for and tap/trace the edge with the ball side of the hammer not hard just lightly youl be able to see and hear when you through the cardboard, makes a perfect and cheap gasket everytime. Ive done it this way for a very long time and never had a problem on cars, bikes and even gas r/c car motors. Im sure alot of people do this, but havent seen anyone do it in all my reading through this site so hope this might help someone. Ill stick it in its own thread if its not already out there later guys.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

thanks acekid7, ill give it a check. Would be nice if it was just that, but I have a bad feeling its going to be something else thats not so easy to fix but theres always hope. Maybe it was my airpump, im hopeing that noise is gone when I get my carb back on since im not putting the airpump back on. Thanks again for the advice acekid7 apreciate it.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

i must say that's a really nice 7 u traded for. and that gasket thing ur dad taught u, that's definitely old school way. mine did the same thing. even using gasket material, the ball peen hammer works wonders for making inside cutouts. he would even take some cheap socket and sharpen the open end of it on a grinder for cutting out the bolt holes. also great work and progress u've made with all the research u've done to get the work done rather than like others do just search a few minutes and ask the same old questions over and over again on what to do for this and how to do that.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Thanks rxtasy3, I havent missed that civic at all even with its good mpg I dont miss it one bit. I still see it every now and then, he brings it to my shop for me to work on lol, I still need to go thru my garage and get rid of all the civic parts I pulled out before I traded it. Pulled out the mugen seats, f1 carbon mirrors and swaped out my good stereo for the one it came with and all the little jdm bits and pieces. Yeah I was kinda not finding anything I was searching for at first, then I started using the advanced search and it helped a ton, I just type what im looking for and have it look for anything with more than 10 posts in 1st gen section and bang there it is, seems to weed out alot of the not to relevant stuff. And everyone on here has been really helpfull and all there builds and restores ive read thru all have some good info and little tricks to get to stuborne places and what not, just all around good stuff. Well 8 oclock time to get started putting my baby back together, later and good luck with yalls rides. Oh yeah dont think ive put up a pic of her yet but heres what I traded for the rx7.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Bummer, got the carb back on and all hooked up and vac ports capped with vacume caps. Dizzy vac is coming from the second on the left, comes out of port on carb and t's off and goes to L and T. Car wont stay running, float bowls are on the level as good as I could tell, got to dark, but I didnt adjust them at all and was very carefull and gentle with them taking them out. On first start up fuel was pouring into the carb but with a couple taps with a screwdriver handle cleared that up. Somthing sounds off with the timing kinda, does anything need adjusting after rat nest removal? I pretty much followed mazspeeds write up on the ratnest removal and it didnt mention anything about redoing the timing. Im positive I have a vac leak somewhere, I can hear a hissing coming from what sounds like inbetween the carb and firewall, I removed the acv and put a block off plate from racing beat on there and pookied it up good (pookie = sealant) I removed the shutter valve and pookied those holes good, i think, will have to double check all this in the morning, got dark and didnt have time to troubleshoot anything. Left alltitude comp. on for now, took off vac secondary box and pookied that hole closed. I noticed I have alot of slack in the throttle cable and dont know why seeing as how I only loosend the bolt on backside so after puttin it back on and tightening it should be exactly the same as when I took it off but its not, any ideas on that one? Wish I had pics but was way to dark by the time I realised I was going to need pics lol. Called in to work and got my day off teusday switch to monday, so im going to try and troubleshoot this in the morning and hopeing for some advice to point me in the right direction. I have my own ideas on what to troubleshoot thanks to sterllings site, but would like yalls advice to, just to cover all my bases and speed things up tommorow. Thanks in advance guys.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

some carb cleaner might help u find that vac leak.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Yeah thats number 1 on the list tommorow morning, gotta run up and get a case from parts store tommorow ran out of carb cleaner and daylight. Been reading up on it since I came in and really sounds like my issue is going to be vac related, going to pul the carb off but not apart and double check that I got those holes cleaned good, am I right in thinking I dont need the gasket for inbtween heatsheild/vac port block and carb I thought the big rubber thing acted as a gasket and left that one out cause I didnt take one out from inbetween there but carb kit came with one. And one more thing, the check valve for crank case venting thats on the rat nest, that crumbled when I took it off and I ran the big line from the carb to the oil neck nipple, could that be my issue? Theres no riggin/fixxing that valve is there something else I can use for the valve (big black round one on rats nest, 1 big line coming from bottom and 2 little lines one on top and one on bottom). like that a parts store would deffinately stock for a different car or is this part special and does more than just open and close, cause I already checked for my specific car and no luck. So far thats about all I can come up with to check in the morning.

1) get rid of vac leak first and before anything else or any adjustments are made.
2) Pull carb and check vac ports for clogs
3) Figure out why my throttle cable has slack in it at carb ( about 1/2 inch )

Seeing as how I have a know vac leak I can clearly hear and I just removed the rat nest and did carb work, im realllllllly hopeing I go outside in the morning with fresh eyes and ears and spot my problem, my buddy said to just adjust the carb properly but I dont think thats my issue. Ive rebuilt a ton of carbs or various aplications and I know its not a dead on science and will need a minor tweak after a rebuild, but I put my adustments back exactly to a T where they were when I took them out. I made marks counted and took notes (good ones to, not like when I was in highschool and just drew on paper to make it look like I was takeing notes lol) not trying to sound like I know it all, but I am really good with my needles, I used to race gas r/c cars and stadium trucks and as often as you need to rebuild those when you race, you get to know your adjusting needles. Anyway thanks for the advise rxtasy3, hope I can track this down with out having it towed to garland to see Ari at rotary performance.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Freakin aaaaa, im a dumb *** I forgot to plug that tube on the back side of the intake close to firewall, but spraying down there didnt make any kinda change in idle, I just happend to be looking down in thought leaning on the fender and saw it lol. Caped it off and car ran better but was still off so took off carb and checked the vac block and dont know what I did but its idleing real good now at 750 rpm on the money baby. Pulls real strong in 1st and 2nd but there is a stumble/bogg havent quite pinpointed where yet, like if its just when I start from a stop or if its at any rpm and happens when I move pedel to quick, and yes I switched to mech secondarys but didnt get up in that range only took it up to about 3000, just drove it around block and came back to do a check on everything and look for leaks. Still dont know why the throttle cable had slack in it, maybe it got tweaked and pulled on to hard when I took it off and whit it being old streched maybe? Anyway back out to find the cause of the stumble, thinking my accelerator pump might be cause, since from my short drive it appers to happen on quick throttle adjustments, if I work it slow I can get around it, we'll see. Later guys back in a few with an update.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Sweeeeeet, rats nest and emissions successfully removed and holding igle at 800 rpm, all I need to fine tune is the crank vent system but pretty much jjust need the purge valve and will try to find one at work tommorow. Right now I have my oil vent going to an airfilter housing nipple not used anymore and routed the float vent in the same way for now should that be ok untill I can get the valve and route it properly? Rebuilding the carb did wonders to this old girl, all exhaust pops are gone and has real good power in 1st which it didnt have much of before the rebuild, it doesnt seem to buck/dive as much when I get into it, I couldnt be happier with this, so far best thing I have done for my car without a doubt. With that doneI dove into the MSD box install, aready had it mounted just needed to plug everything in and route new plug wires, done and done lol god I love it when a plan comes together. On frst start up wow, it started b4 I got the key all the way over to crank it lol. No issues with it so ar took it for another quick test drive and acceleration was even better and smoother and the exhaust makes a sound that beggs you to give it more gas, it sounds amazing right now and all it has is some aftermarket stockish restrictive muffler. Im so happy right now I cant find words to discribe it, thank you everyone on here that helped me out, not just with advice but with your threads read thru most of them before I did this and it all helped a ton. Well ive put it off long enuff time to get her on the highway and open up the secondarys and see what shes got, later guys. And ill get some better pics of it all cleaned up later.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

excellent! now it's time to upgrade the exhaust system.

aragami78

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a plan to me buuuutttttt.... im planing on suspension all around next should add extra fun factor like an exhaust would but will also add some more saftey so thats probably going to be next unless. Made an appointment to bring my car up to see Ari and Chris at Rotary Performance, its running well, but just want to get them to give it a good look over aespecialy after I did the carb, rat nest removal and added the msd box, will probably get them to dial it in as far as settings go, but what ever they see that needs attention will be next for sure^^