1980 RX7 - How much is it worth?
11-23-08, 08:55 PM
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1980 RX7 - How much is it worth?
I have a chance to buy a 1980 RX7 with a clean body, newer front suspension, exhaust and tires. It has a 12a engine in it (he says from an 85) which the current owner can't get running, and the original, 1980, 12a engine block is out of the car. Manual transmission. Interior is in above average shape for 28 year old car. He has a bunch of spare parts(rear glass, fender, etc).
Color is gold. Compression on the engines is unknown.
So basically a decent, although non running, FB with a spare engine block.
I did try to search, but nothing really came out of it that was worth much. . .
Color is gold. Compression on the engines is unknown.
So basically a decent, although non running, FB with a spare engine block.
I did try to search, but nothing really came out of it that was worth much. . .
11-23-08, 09:02 PM
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Chad Carson
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I have a chance to buy a 1980 RX7 with a clean body, newer front suspension, exhaust and tires. It has a 12a engine in it (he says from an 85) which the current owner can't get running, and the original, 1980, 12a engine block is out of the car. Manual transmission. Interior is in above average shape for 28 year old car. He has a bunch of spare parts(rear glass, fender, etc).
Color is gold. Compression on the engines is unknown.
So basically a decent, although non running, FB with a spare engine block.
I did try to search, but nothing really came out of it that was worth much. . .
Color is gold. Compression on the engines is unknown.
So basically a decent, although non running, FB with a spare engine block.
I did try to search, but nothing really came out of it that was worth much. . .
To me about 500-900 because it is an SA. If it was an 81-85 I would say 100-500 with out knowing the compression.
Hope that helps
11-23-08, 10:47 PM
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Chad Carson
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where the storage bins are located on some of the rx7's.
Behind the seats there is a section you can look under to see if there is any rust. For some reason that is a spot where alot of 7's get rust. Not sure if the owner will allow you to look under there. if it had storage bins it is easy just take the storage bin out. With out bins it might be a bit more work.
Behind the seats there is a section you can look under to see if there is any rust. For some reason that is a spot where alot of 7's get rust. Not sure if the owner will allow you to look under there. if it had storage bins it is easy just take the storage bin out. With out bins it might be a bit more work.
11-23-08, 11:33 PM
#6
If the seller took good care of the car, he would proudly point to no bin/wheel well rust. If the seller was unaware the wheel well bin rust risk for these cars, no doubt there is allot of bin rust.
How good are you at metal working? Fixing mine took about $100 materials and allot of work.
Bin rust is from an reinforcing metal piece of metal in the rear wheel well not being sealed. It is about a 1/4 hole that is hard to see even with the wheels off.
The other weak point is the rear hatch drain rails. They will rust if around the drain holes are they not kept clean.
Outside those two areas, these cars are bullet proof body wise.
Gold is my favorite RX-7 color!
How good are you at metal working? Fixing mine took about $100 materials and allot of work.
Bin rust is from an reinforcing metal piece of metal in the rear wheel well not being sealed. It is about a 1/4 hole that is hard to see even with the wheels off.
The other weak point is the rear hatch drain rails. They will rust if around the drain holes are they not kept clean.
Outside those two areas, these cars are bullet proof body wise.
Gold is my favorite RX-7 color!
11-24-08, 03:45 AM
#7
Guys - no bins in SAs 
Biggest rust zone is (as with ALL 1st Gen RX7s) is the lower rear fender behind rear wheels. Let me put it this way: there WILL be rust there - even my 63K So. Cal. RX7 had a bit...so Ohio? Count on it. Not a deal breaker but understand how bad it is cause unless your a body man, your looking at the cost of the car + (assuming the $500-900 suggested here) to repair that area. Frankly, unless the car is really outstanding, what your describing (ie, a non-runner with a bad motor) is what we call a "parts car", so unless he has receipts for some impressive recent work (new suspension, paint, etc) I would suggest this is a $300 car unless he can get it running for you with confirmed good compression.
The original 80 12a is obviously shot, or it would be in the car - and since housings and irons are no longer available for the 79-80 SA, its mostly worthless since its likely not rebuildable (or at least you can tell HIM that...).
Be patient. Its likely been sitting a while, and winter is no time to be selling a non-runner. Offer him $300 and walk away. Make sure he has your number, and follow up with him every few weeks. Tough for someone sitting on a dead car NOT to make a call that can put cash in their pocket and an eye sore off the property.
Good luck - if you get it post some pics. Lots of good help here.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Biggest rust zone is (as with ALL 1st Gen RX7s) is the lower rear fender behind rear wheels. Let me put it this way: there WILL be rust there - even my 63K So. Cal. RX7 had a bit...so Ohio? Count on it. Not a deal breaker but understand how bad it is cause unless your a body man, your looking at the cost of the car + (assuming the $500-900 suggested here) to repair that area. Frankly, unless the car is really outstanding, what your describing (ie, a non-runner with a bad motor) is what we call a "parts car", so unless he has receipts for some impressive recent work (new suspension, paint, etc) I would suggest this is a $300 car unless he can get it running for you with confirmed good compression.
The original 80 12a is obviously shot, or it would be in the car - and since housings and irons are no longer available for the 79-80 SA, its mostly worthless since its likely not rebuildable (or at least you can tell HIM that...).
Be patient. Its likely been sitting a while, and winter is no time to be selling a non-runner. Offer him $300 and walk away. Make sure he has your number, and follow up with him every few weeks. Tough for someone sitting on a dead car NOT to make a call that can put cash in their pocket and an eye sore off the property.
Good luck - if you get it post some pics. Lots of good help here.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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11-24-08, 10:27 AM
#9
Just for the record, Stu - - my 80 has NO body rust. Neener, neener.
Closest it ever got was minor surface rusting where the brake master has leaked and undercut the paint on the firewall and wheelwell. But it was "patina" rust only - no structural impact, came off with steel wool.
Closest it ever got was minor surface rusting where the brake master has leaked and undercut the paint on the firewall and wheelwell. But it was "patina" rust only - no structural impact, came off with steel wool.
12-09-08, 01:01 PM
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Well, now I found a 1980 leather sport for $500. It's running, too. I needs some suspension work, but it runs and the body is above average for a 1980 car.
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