eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

hey rex thanks for the link for the fuel pump, now im gonna get a walbro

Rex4Life

Oh yea, did any of you guys with SE's notice there appears to be a pulsation damper installed on the outlet side of the stock pump?

Might be a good idea to keep that installed if possible--I know I would like to. Sure would be nice to know for sure what it does.

Scott

setzep

From looking at some graphs the external gsl 392 flows ~5gph more than the high pressure intank but they tested the external with a different fluid. I'm guessing they are about the same for argument sake. One of the main reasons I wanted to get a intank pump was to get away from all that noise a big external makes. I have my bosch located near the stock location and it drives me nuts. It can be herd over the exhaust at idle and I only have one small 3" muffler at the rear. I hope walbro makes a quiter pump.

You are right, that is a pulsation damper at the outlet of your stock -se pump. I've been told when you buy a adj fuel pressure reg (like SX or aeromotive) they act as a pulsation damper also. When going with a fuel pump that flows almost double the stock one I would think it's a good idea to get a adj fuel pressure reg also. I'm not sure the stock regulator can regulate the pressure as well with so much more fuel passing by it. With your non adjustable computer this may become a problem.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Cam,

FWIW, I am looking for another SE tank, and I am going to mount my Aeromotive inside it.

Does anyone have a pic of an 84/85 12A tank? I still want to see if they are the same as an SE tank with the internal baffles and pick-ups.

RotaryRevn

Please let us know what size adapter you need to get to make that pump work.

setzep

Hey Alex,
I don't know how you plan on shoving that huge pump inside the tank, will it fit through the access hole on the top? I think you're right though on the 12a vs the 13b tank baffle difference. I have my tank out of my car right now and plan to take the top off soon, I'll try and remember to take a pic of what it looks like inside when I do.

Also, what does your aeromotive pump flow at say.. 70psi?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Do you have an 84/85 tank?
Right now, the pump is putting out 5.5 PSI at idle with the regulator.

(Remember, it's a Holley at the moment.)

setzep

I have a 84 tank in my car, well sitting next to it right now.

Do you have a link to a flow chart for your pump Alex?

HalfchassisRX3

Hey man what are you going to use for a fuel pump?

Rex4Life

Well I've finally finished up with the wiring diagrams.

They are linked into the ECU mapping files I've already posted.

Here's the link anyways:

ECU Mapping Files

I would like to post the images but they are too large and would mess up the thread--you know, having to scroll over to see all the words really sucks.

The only part of the wiring that is untested is the fuel pump relay & resister unit. As soon as I get the Walbro (soon), I'll be hooking it up.

Scott

atlas541

well, could you possibly post a link to a website that covers all this?

too bad my car isnt a GSL-SE or this would work great

Rex4Life

Daah--just got the Walbro in today and wouldn't ya know it the 12mm banjo fitting is the wrong thread pitch.

[rant]Damn Mazda using all these off thread pitches.[/rant]

I'm trying to maintain the existing SE plumbing and pulsation damper (at the pump). Interesting that a female threaded pulsation damper bolts onto the end of the pump outlet. So I would like to keep this damper installed and I've got a 12 mm male threaded outlet on the way.

Anyway, the pump looks real nice, but I'll have to wait for the new fittings to come in.

I'll post some side by side pics when I have it all ready to go.

Scott

p.s. Still have to finish up a few areas to say I'm done: fuel pump, fuel pump relay resistor wiring, close up ECU area, and the hood scoop--then it's boost time.

RotaryRevn

Thanks for the update!

Mazdaspeed_AutoX

......... WOW...... well first off my hat off to you for this "diary" of how to swap a turbo in. VERRY usefull. My engine just blew a couple days ago in my SE and for the last couple of days I have spent about 12 + hours on this subject on this forum/thread. And after reading all of your thread, I believe I am about 88% competent in what I am going to have to do/modify/buy. One question though, I am planning on using a haltec ecu, that should be almost as easy as wirirng up the t2 ecu?
I just thought it would be easier anyways because I wouldn't have to have every sensor hooked up and going. I don't think that putting in an aftermarket ecu should be to hard, bout to look up some info, but I used to have a CCNA degree in computer networking, so hopefully its not harder than that Can't wait to see your future mods.

Ill be starting a "Diary" pretty soon on my swap

Dean

RotaryRevn

Yes, please do!

Rex4Life

Yea I bet it will be alot easier to hook up a haltec but also much more expensive. Either way I think you'll be happy with the results.

Scott

Rex4Life

Finally got around to installing the Walbro 255. Everything went in real good--like I originally planned.

I ended up getting multiple fittings for the outlet side and finally got the right one. Every thing was ordered from fuel-pumps.net

Here are the parts and cost of what I used:

Walbro 255 ($151.98)
128-302 (12mm OD hose inlet fitting) ($2.40)
128-3075 (12mm male threaded fitting) ($3.72)

If you order the right fittings the first time the total will be $160. This includes the electrical circle ring connectors, nuts, lock washers, crush washers, and sound jacket.

As you can see the install is nearly perfect. The assembled pump and hoses end up being a little longer and redrilling the mount bracket will be necessary to prevent the inlet hose from rubbing on the frame rail (look closely on the pictures that follow). Should be not big deal to move it 1/2" closer to the drive shaft.

Even the pulsation damper and banjo fittings can be retained in this installation. For a standard GSL-SE, this would be a perfect pump replacement as opposed to the stock pump which is expensive--but use the 190 l/hr pump instead.

Interestingly, the stock pump has small cone filter screens on both the inlet and outlet. These won't fit on the Walbro--oh well.

Later this weekend I'll check my fuel rail pressures and see if I got too much pressure. My guess is that I will need to install a bigger fuel pressure regulator.

The pump is not loud, but you can hear it with the car off (and the jumper installed).

Also this weekend I will connect the fuel pump relay resistor unit which reduces fuel flow till boost is encountered.

Scott

Rex4Life

Here's an install picture:

Rex4Life

And another pic of the assembly and the old GSL-SE pump:

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Impressive!. Talk about a stock replacement!

Rex4Life

Today I checked the fuel rail pressure and it was ~41 psi--about 4 psi higher than the 37 psi it should have been. So the walbro is over-running the FPR. The voltage at the pump was about 11 volts.

I connected the S4 fuel pump relay resistor and checked the pressures again. Rail pressure came down to the correct 37 psi, but just reving the motor I was able to knock down the pressure a few psi--this isn't good. The voltage at the pump with the relay resistor working was now about 7 volts.

The T2 fuel pump voltage should be 9 volts so it looks like I am either running more amps thru the pump--and this causes the resistor to drop the voltage more--or I have excessive voltage drop in the wires. Once boost kicks in the voltage should kick up to 11 volts.

I'll be looking into the voltage drop and see if I can get it resolved, otherwise, I just won't use the fuel pump relay resistor. Everything seems to be working OK without it.

Scott

Rex4Life

WHOO HOO--The engine is now officially broken in.

Got a STI hoodscoop, Corksport downpipe and a Bonez turbo flo cat on the way!

Tonight I'll be pulling off the UIM and installing a spacer on the primary injector rail. I'm hoping that is where my vacuum leak is at. At idle I'm only getting about 12" of vacuum so I know I have a leak somewhere. Apparently the spacer was missing when I tore down the engine and I only recently found out about it's existence.

As it is right now I'm getting about 5 psi with the stock S4 exhaust and the stock GSL-SE muffler. Considering the vacuum/boost leak that sounds about right. Hoping to get 6 psi when I find and fix the vacuum leak.

The new cat and downpipe should put me in the 8-10 psi range which is my final goal.

Scott

RotaryRevn

So how's it feel so far on 5psi? Hopefully I will be picking up my car tomorrow and I will be on the way to owning a turbo se.

Rex4Life

This T2 engine is exactly what the car needs to be REAL fun. Even with the stock 135 hp the car was not that great at accelerating. Now when I hit the gas the car moves--at any speed. For around town, the low end torque is also improved.

The only downside is that the car is now a little heavier. I'm taking a wag at 100 lbs. more.

I love it.

Scott

p.s. If I drive it tame, I get 1-2 mpg better than the GSL-SE, maybe cause the engine has been rebuilt and the SE was tired--who knows.

RotaryRevn

cool man, thats good to hear. Just picked up my gslse from San Fransisco. I have two weeks off in May, I hope to get alot of the swap done. Awesome on the gas milage! I'm gonna be running a Microtech so I am hoping for even better milage. The se I bought has 127k miles on it and I can't believe how well that thing scoots! Maybe it's just because its been about 4 years since I have owned an se. Anyways, I was thinking bout going with the garret gt35/40 but I think I'm gonna hold off for a couple years and enjoy the stock turbo for awhile. The car feels good with 135hp, can't imaging 250 or so.