Heylo. I use Castrol GTX 5w 30 and it seems to work awesome in my car. Think i need a better one?

try a 10w40 it seems to work well i like it and rats net removal a must have as well as a good exhaust

Lose 50 pounds?

I'm a huge fan of the SE suspension swap. If you can find one in a junkyard and it's fire's been extinguished, grab the struts and axle an RUN!! While you're at it, hit up some poly bushings and replace your steering joints.

Apex'i safc with dyno tuning....

cure any rich/lean problems that may occur

hell, grab the whole damn car and run, full susp. plus the engine and electronic wizardry all for the low low price of....whatever they are asking, usually not much maybee 400 around here not bad for the parts gained

Take out every bit of crap you dont need...sound insulation, stereo, speakers, the metal frame for the storage bins. and drill holes in everything you can...nothing handles better, or goes faster than a super light weight car! just ask lotus if you dont belive me.

I have an 85 GSL RX carburated and its all stock what is the best things to add for more and major hp it has a muffler already and suspention.

Does anyone know a website for good lookin Bodykits and acessories for the 1st Gens?

I would like setup suggestions for my 1979 RX7.
I want to set it up and try to get into the Grassroots Motorsports 2005 Challenge.
The rule change for 2005 somewhat deemphasized the 1/4 mile drag. I plan to concentrate on the Autocross and the concourse but any low cost performance improvement would be welcome.

Batesgc@aol.com
 

How Does The Stock Drivi Trane Hold Up To The Increase In Power

im 16 and i bought this rx as my first car, my friend crashed it but not to bad, so i bought 5 way adjustable tokico's, with pro-series eibachs, and poly bushings for suspension ( i also had to replace a control arm and ended up getting adjustable ones and then didnt use them and got one stock...so if anyone wants to buy these let me know), for the engine i got a DEEP SUMP OIL PAN now i can hold like a liter and a half more than stock, and rb headers to a catco converter to a 2.5 inch mid-pipe AND THIS IS WHERE I F***** UP...DO NOT BUY A PACESETTER MONZA EXHAUST THEY DO NOT SOUND GOOD, N E WAYZ I CHOSE TO IGNORE THAT, i also got a better distributor rotor and cap, some ngk wires and ngk multifire plugs(these are awesome and affordable), the rest of my money went into a motherf***** transmission swap from auto to manual...but hey now i can fix and build anything, we are swapping out my rear axle for a gsl-se and my buddy at dyna-trac is going to rebuild it and re gear it so my car should be fun and fast n e wayz the only thing i listed that no one else did is that deep sump oil pan...

i have just bought a 1984 GS with only 44,000 miles. It has been garage keep its like new. But one thing is since its sat that long would the rings be bad or what should been done since i'm starting to drive it every day. If any on wants to help me email me at loudmouth501@aol.com

You don't have any rings in your engine, dude. Go to FAQ section and read it all. You have a long way to go, but the best car to do it with. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

if its legal in your area remove all rotational weight(on the pully system) that is not necissary to allow the car to run and drive example, smog pump, ac, replace water pump with electric waterpump and clutch fan with electric fan

SUSPENSION! (Springs & Shocks/Struts)
Tri-Point front strut bar
New Improved CP RACING R&P kit (SWEET... :drool:)
GOOD RIMS AND TIRES

My $.02 on upgrades. I did the following write-up for an individual who was looking for advice on making his 1st gen competitive for autocrossing in CSP while maintaining some semblance of cost-effectiveness.

By careful shopping and research, you can put together a very nice, well performing car.

FWIW.

********

I have been autocrossing and road racing for 20+ years. I probably know most of the old timers in your area. I consider myself a "B plus to A minus" driver, and have shown occasional "flashes of brilliance". But, I am no "shoe" by any means.

It is good to start out by setting goals. Do you want to be locally, divisionally, or nationally competitive? Around here a guy by the name of Mike Feher is the shoe in CSP with his Civic. He is a top 3 or divisional car / driver combo, and trophies about half the time at the nationals. I didn't start autocrossing this year until June. At that time I was 4 seconds off of Mike. By the end of the season, I was within 1.8 seconds of him on heat cycled, old, corded road race Hoosiers and Mike was on relatively fresh Hoosier A4S04's. The car is well balanced, handling is tunable, and it is dead reliable.

I think I can get within .7 sec to 1 sec of him relatively cheaply, but to beat him is going to cost some money that I am not quite ready to spend.

The car started out totally stock. My setup is as follows:

- Car is an 85 GS, no sunroof, 12a rebuilt at 120k. Currently at 160k miles. Rust free, 3 owner car. This was a very nice daily driver, and I almost hated to modify it. ($2400, ebay)
- Weber 45 DCOE and manifold: ($300 used plus $75 for jets, etc. to get it to run right) Addded August 2004.
- Carter fuel pump, Holley regulator and gauge, plus misc parts for install. ($150 Jegs) Added August 2004
- Racing Beat Header and "Street Port" exhaust. ($250 used and shipped - online - this was a steal!)
- Eibach springs: Fronts are 260 lbs or so, and rears are 145 lbs or so. These are NOT coil overs. These are the Eibach Pro-Kit or whatever springs (online for $210, not sure where I got them)
- Shocks: front Koni low pressure gas, NOT externally adjustable (eBay, $75 new), rears Tokico blue non-adjustables (online for $55, can't remember where)
- Sway bars: Suspension Techniques 1-1/8" front, adjustable rear 17mm, I think (lightly used, online, $60 the set, a sweet deal)
- Replaced front control arm bushings and tension rod bushings with new, harder than stock rubber ones. $20 ebay.
- Replaced all original rubber brake lines with new NAPA lines - would have been just as cheap to get braided ones from Victoria British. ($80 or so.)
- Front brake pads, Axxis Metal Masters, Rear shoes (yes, drum brakes) semi metallic. ($65 or so)
- Replaced all fluids with performance fluids or synthetics.
- Swapped rear open diff with LSD, 3.90 gears. Only swapped center section (aka "pumpkin") as it was cheaper and easier ($75 used)
- 13x7 Revolution rims. ($200 set, used)
- Hoosier R3S03 tires, old road race tires (free!) Added Sept 2004; I was on old BFG R1's before that!
- Removed A/C. (free!)
- 5 point harness (free; past expiration date for road racing which requires new belts every 2 years or so)
- Performance alignment (free; did it on the garage floor)
- Everything else is OEM stock, including the rear watts link and trailing arms with 20 year old bushings.

Total investment (not including my time and other maintenance items): $4,034

There might be a couple other little things I have done, I just can't recall at the moment. I studied hard and was careful with my purchases.

The point is that you don't need a lot of money to be reasonably quick on a local basis. Take your time, educate yourself, spend money on driving 2 to 3 events a month instead of hardware. Be judicious about buying parts and only buy when it is a deal. I had specific reasons for my choices based on price / performance, and would be happy to share my thoughts on comparative setups.

My goals were to do a budget CSP car that was still streetable and could be driven every day. I think I can say I accomplished that. Future cheap mods include:

- Replace drivers seat with 2nd Gen TII seat ($75)
- Relocate battery to pass side, just behind strut tower in engine compartment ($75)
- DLDFIS (after checking to see if it is legal; $75)
- Hoosier A3S03 225/45-13 tires (used; 14 tires - $150 total!)
- Exhaust: current header to dual pipes with no pre-silencers, under the axle, to a muffler ($300 - I have the setup from my ITA car and figure I could sell it for $300)
- PB&J racing recommended mods to Watts link and trailing arms - FREE
- Various lightening efforts (free!)

If I decide to run the Divisionals or Nationals this year, I may spring for set of fresh Hoosier A4S04's ($750 - ouch!).

Now don't get me wrong; it is fun to modify and improve your car. But, the old adage is "First make the driver fast, then the car". I once spec'd out building a no compromises, national level CSP RX7 using my car as a basis, and NOT rebuilding the engine. It was over $12k in parts and contracted labor alone! I am not ready for that level of committment.

**************

i have a 81 does any one know of any and all mods i can do because ive been looking around and all i have found is for like 85 and up send an e-mail if u have anything smw1718@aol.com

Throttle body mod
 

Need help on how to do this. Where do you get your car worked on?

I have a 85 GS 1.1 carb i replaced the muffler with a 4" tip. If i take off the catalytic converter will it give me any more hp or mpg

fun stuff
 

i dont know if this was said i looked threw a the whole front page of post and didnt see it but i am with my man seanrot here just basic stuff first like i would do

-upgraded ngk spark plugs
-upgraded ngk wiring set 8mm
-upgraded alternator pulley (doesnt take away as much at high rpm)
-taking off the ac and all the connectors for it
-racing seats (summit has a nice setup for about 100 bucks total for 2 seats)
-put on a turbo
-racing radiator
-new radiator lines (they are like 100 bucks but worth it to keep your engine cool)
-lightweight weels
-custom 3" exaust setup ( i am currently making my own because i am welder)
-do one of 2 things with your catalytic converter if you have one
1. beat the living shit out of it and empty out the insides (so when they inspect it they look in and see ohh their is the catlyic converter.
2.if you live in a hilly billy state like me (utah) and thier is no emmisions test you have to take the bloody thing off!!!!
-electrical fan


and for you really serious guys

-take out your stero and all parts of it
-take out your spare tire and leave at home
-take out your center consol
-empty your car of all unessary items (for wieght purposes)
-take off antena
-take off windshield wiper and all componets like fluid ect...
-take off headlights (if your are the kind that pop up
-clean your undercarige to get rid of all the crap that builds up
-cold air intake (after the turbo)
-\

Lightweight flywheel. Makes a noticeable improvement in acceleration, and if you change it when you're replacing the clutch, you can even justify the added expense . . . that old stock flywheel was way too scored and had to replace it.

basic things you can do to make your car faster
(some are allready noted and im repeating)

12a

1. Remove intake manifold and plug coolant passages with freeze plugs

2. K&N Air Filter

3. Cold air intake-Dryer tube from airbox snorkel to a place with cool air.

4. Advanced Ignition Timing. 24-16 for 12a, 26-16 for 13b

5. MSD or other ignition upgrade.

6. Header with some sort of 2.5 inch exhaust behind it.

7. Have someone rebuild your carb who is qualified to do it.

8. Have someone mod your carb to accept holly jets and maybe even flow more CFM

9. An Aluminium or Steel Flywheel will make a very noticable differance in acceleration.

10. Fix Exhaust leaks

11. Tune the old stock carb, accel pump shot, 2ndary spring, float level.

13.Springs and shocks will make your car produce much more grip at the expence of creating a slightly stiffer ride.

Many of the above count as GSLSE mods

14. Get new or have your injectors cleaned and made like new by someone like RC Engeneering.

Just got a 85 I think its a gs i found a gs emblem under the passenger seat. I have allways been a chevy guy had a few mustangs never really took the whole import thing seriously untill now. and All I can say now is thank you Mazda what a crazy ride its like a go-cart that does 130. I go to the store often now, not the one down the street but the one acrossed town LOL I love driving it its such a fun car I have not gotten in to any mods yet. but have started doing some research, thus how I ended up here. I had a few questions I bought the car for 500 dollars from a guy i work with, to use a s a "work car" when i took off and put it to the floor and grabbed second and the tires spun it was no longer my work car. anyway how can I tell what size motor it has and how can i tell if its a GS or whatnot any help would be appreciated my e-mail is biggpappa85@hotmail.com feel free to e-mail me or post here any help.