(PAINT) HOW TO: Paint your 7 for less than $100 (56K Beware!)
06-28-07, 10:15 AM
#51
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Do you guys think gray/silver would "catch" the light as black would? I think that gray/silver would be a good middle ground being as "easy" to apply as black and being able to hide slight "imperfections" almost as well as white.
06-28-07, 10:29 AM
#52
in the thread on the mopar forum many have failed trying to use silver. they say it wont work due to having to wet sand it. im not 100% sure why, do a little reading in those threads.
**update**
i ordered my brightside paint yesterday. i have everything i need but rollers, mineral spirits, and peterol(?). ill start sanding and prepping this week/weekend. ill have pics of the whole process.
**update**
i ordered my brightside paint yesterday. i have everything i need but rollers, mineral spirits, and peterol(?). ill start sanding and prepping this week/weekend. ill have pics of the whole process.
06-28-07, 11:01 AM
#53
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06-29-07, 03:49 AM
#54
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THANKS!
I'll check out the other threads and watch this one for awhile also. I have done normal standard paint jobs and some fancy custom ones also spraying.
Cost of paint, reducer, hardner is a killer for just dong an old clunker to make it look better. Add to those costs the primer and thiner etc.. also when needed. I have a couple beaters where the factory paint FELL OFF.
If the Plymouth paint fell off a 95 Aclaim and a 95 minivan, rustoleum has got to do at least as well or better than the factory did! We've had both those vehicles for at least 5 years now and the paint was already off when we got them. Now a rusty roof on both vehicles, but just surface rust. I'll do a test on those, anything will be better than now, and if it truns out good enough I may do some better stuff the same way.
I had never thought of using Rustoleum for an entire vehicle like that.
I'll check out the other threads and watch this one for awhile also. I have done normal standard paint jobs and some fancy custom ones also spraying.
Cost of paint, reducer, hardner is a killer for just dong an old clunker to make it look better. Add to those costs the primer and thiner etc.. also when needed. I have a couple beaters where the factory paint FELL OFF.
If the Plymouth paint fell off a 95 Aclaim and a 95 minivan, rustoleum has got to do at least as well or better than the factory did! We've had both those vehicles for at least 5 years now and the paint was already off when we got them. Now a rusty roof on both vehicles, but just surface rust. I'll do a test on those, anything will be better than now, and if it truns out good enough I may do some better stuff the same way.
I had never thought of using Rustoleum for an entire vehicle like that.
06-29-07, 03:55 AM
#55
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By the way,
Is it really needed to sand down each coat, or just lay down several then sand smooth.
I've known people to do 10 coats of hand rubbed laquer for a fancy car, rubbing out each coat before the next. Really sad!
With laquer when done right each new coat clears away the fog/haze on the previous coat, it's a chemical thing. So really only the last laquere coat needs rubbed out normally. Unless there was other reasons, like letting the car sit for days between coats, or bugs hairs dust and other imperfections needing fixed.
Just wonder if the same for the sanding on this rustoleum roller job?
Is it really needed to sand down each coat, or just lay down several then sand smooth.
I've known people to do 10 coats of hand rubbed laquer for a fancy car, rubbing out each coat before the next. Really sad!
With laquer when done right each new coat clears away the fog/haze on the previous coat, it's a chemical thing. So really only the last laquere coat needs rubbed out normally. Unless there was other reasons, like letting the car sit for days between coats, or bugs hairs dust and other imperfections needing fixed.
Just wonder if the same for the sanding on this rustoleum roller job?
06-29-07, 12:41 PM
#56
the normal is wet sanding every two coats or so. if you wait till the last coat the orange peel will be so bad youll have sanded through the majority of your coats before you get it smooth. sanding every two coats keeps the orange peel down and makes the final coat look better.
you dont have to sand at all, but youre finish wont be that great. at all.
you dont have to sand at all, but youre finish wont be that great. at all.
07-06-07, 11:51 PM
#59
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Hey,
Just about to start on my own. Going to go for Hunter Green all over, maybe with a safety orange stripe. At any rate I was wondering if anyone has used the spray version of the rustoleum protective enamel. I would think that might be easier and cleaner (no mixing).
Any thoughts?
Just about to start on my own. Going to go for Hunter Green all over, maybe with a safety orange stripe. At any rate I was wondering if anyone has used the spray version of the rustoleum protective enamel. I would think that might be easier and cleaner (no mixing).
Any thoughts?
I'll post pics on the process latter.
07-09-07, 12:16 AM
#62
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This is pretty nice, I'm gonna have to give this try. Have any of yall finish yet so I can check yall pics? I do it, I'm gonna do a two tune red and black.
07-09-07, 03:56 PM
#63
i started sanding my spare fender and headlight cover today. this is my first time doing any kind of body work. so i have a quick question for the more experienced guys, if my paint im painting on top of is good, how much do i need to sand it?
the car is tender blue. im using 320 and 400. i have reached serveral stages when sanding. one, when the blue turns a little darker. i assume at this point ive removed the clear coat. second, i hit white. i assume this is the primer.
my question is, do i need to take the clear off on the whole car or just scuff up the paint/clear with the 320/400?
thanks.
the car is tender blue. im using 320 and 400. i have reached serveral stages when sanding. one, when the blue turns a little darker. i assume at this point ive removed the clear coat. second, i hit white. i assume this is the primer.
my question is, do i need to take the clear off on the whole car or just scuff up the paint/clear with the 320/400?
thanks.
07-20-07, 11:17 PM
#70
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Thats looking really good dude, I like the color you went with!
You might want to paint the groove in the valence panel that mates up with the hood, because at certain angles you can see through the crack to the original paint. I had to go over several crack areas like this on the fenders and door afterwards because it was pretty apparent.
When sanding, you just need to be sure to eliminate the layer of clear coat, and then keep going until the surface is relatively smooth. To do this, I sanded with around 200 or so grit paper until the paint "dulled", then went a little farther just to be sure. In some areas, this meant going down to a yellowish layer that I think is the old primer. For the best results, I HIGHLY recommend applying a thin layer of body filler over any area that has minor defects. For example, I had some pitting from oxidation that resulted in dimples approximately 1mm in diameter (very small). In retrospect, I wish I had filled these in before painting, because they can still be seen.
The key is to put as much effort in the preparation as possible, and to remember that paint will only augment defects.
You might want to paint the groove in the valence panel that mates up with the hood, because at certain angles you can see through the crack to the original paint. I had to go over several crack areas like this on the fenders and door afterwards because it was pretty apparent.
When sanding, you just need to be sure to eliminate the layer of clear coat, and then keep going until the surface is relatively smooth. To do this, I sanded with around 200 or so grit paper until the paint "dulled", then went a little farther just to be sure. In some areas, this meant going down to a yellowish layer that I think is the old primer. For the best results, I HIGHLY recommend applying a thin layer of body filler over any area that has minor defects. For example, I had some pitting from oxidation that resulted in dimples approximately 1mm in diameter (very small). In retrospect, I wish I had filled these in before painting, because they can still be seen.
The key is to put as much effort in the preparation as possible, and to remember that paint will only augment defects.
07-30-07, 10:24 AM
#74
been finished for a few days. i got it all bad together, got her running good, and ive been driving her a lot. i havent been able to drive since the beginning of june. so im making up for it.
vptuning-- they are 16x7 and 16x8 work wheels. i added a pic of that car just for you. the tires that are on the rear are too small for my liking. i have some bigger ones in my room. i may get them installed this week.
vptuning-- they are 16x7 and 16x8 work wheels. i added a pic of that car just for you. the tires that are on the rear are too small for my liking. i have some bigger ones in my room. i may get them installed this week.
07-30-07, 07:35 PM
#75
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This is probably already on here somewhere but this guy did it to his corvair. He's got some 8 months later pics posted also, holding up well.
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html