I think we need a poll to see why 178 people clicked on this thread, 24 people posted a response, but only 18 people voted

 

I've never had a bit of trouble with the stock OMP, so that's what I'm currently running. I think pre-mixing is really the way to go, though. 2-stroke oil is really more suitable, and being able to control the ratio is great. I'll probably switch to premix eventually.

 

On my old street-ported engine I used RedLine premix. Each of the 3 SE's Ive owned simply stayedwith the stock OMP and moved the cotter pin and washer to the topmost setting to maximize oil delivery.

 

So, does this mean I should put a little bean oil into the tank of my stock 12A when I fillup? Say, 4 oz? Sounds like it can only help.

 

Pre sounds good, But I admit to omp. I once put together a motor out of all (very) used parts with NOTHING matching (experiment). Had the customer use sythetic pre-mix for the first ~6 months in addition to having omp on max (both Amsoil) to avoid hot start problems. Never had a problem and I knew everything about the car for the next 5 years, 58,000 miles and 20 autocrosses. Oil usage was ~2300 per quart.
I know most of you do not like synthetics. I have used Amsoil in everything I keep. I have heard that you can see the bad build up during a tear down. I don't know about that since I have never had to do a tear down on one using the Amsoil???

 

So how about castor oil (bean oil)? Used to be a favorite with 2-cycle mtorcycles, when I was a lot younger.

jh

 

Ahhhhhh, the smell of Blendzall in the morning...

Probably not good for rotaries, as it has a tendancy to get gummy.

Smells cool, though! -WG

 

update

 

An offtopic question.

Why doesn't the oil from the OMP fully burn?

I don't quite understand it. From what I read in this thread the oil get's distributed in kinda the same way.

 

Regular oil isn't formulated to "burn" like 2 cycle is, but rather to lubricate

 

well 24 actually 35 peopel hoave nwo respoeneded but there is nto as many votes as responses because they are not 35 UNIQUE responses HAA so there heeh anyways heres a link for ya all to check out wiht those things ya kno weheh sorry beer got ahold of me

blah here it is
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

 

Thats the exact same link I posted on the first page.

Thanks ok man, here have another

 

I think voting is kinda useless if you don't own a RX-7 yet.

 

OK, I took the leap and started with 4 oz MMO to the tankful in the 85. Of course, I'm such a placebo freak it seemed like it was running better already when I drove out of the station!

Since I don't know the history of this car, and all the fluids were stinky when I changed them, I'll add, say, half a quart at the next oil change, change again after a few hundred miles, etc., 'til the oil runs clear. Castrol 20W-50, I guess.

B

 

OK...the MMO does work, but regarding defeating the OMP and going through the hassle of prepping pre-mix and keeping up with the routine....


[QUOTE]Originally posted by Wankelguy

I've never had a bit of trouble with the stock OMP, so that's what I'm currently running. I think pre-mixing is really the way to go, though. 2-stroke oil is really more suitable, and being able to control the ratio is great. I'll probably switch to premix eventually.


AGAIN, WHY?! The minutes that you spend on this stuff adds up over a lifetime and could be better spent with people or things that will impact performance....yeppers....

 

Using premix will ensure that the oil is there. You get no indication that the stock OMP fails, and they have been known to fail. At the same time, if you open up an engine where the stock omp was stuck open, its a mess. I rather have an oil that will lubricate and burn cleanly. The stock OMP can be made to inject premix with the components pictured on the first page. And it doesn't take that much time to pour the stuff in the gas tank.

 

Well, as I stated above, I have always been on OMP. However, one reason given by racers for pre-mix is that the concentration or ratio of the oil to gas is constant at all times. There is a delay between the demand (heavy or WOT) and supply, pehaps only a small one but it is there. If for example the engine has been at low rpm for a while and then you floor it, you would go from having very little oil metered in, to needing alot quickly. Pre-mix allows for the same mix to be delivered intatainiously with the increase of gas flow. It also prevents the slightly leaner (oil) mix that occurs when the accelerator pump is used. Pre-mix allows you to use a 2 cycle oil specifically designed for that need instead of using "regular" motor oil. It should also be pointed out though that modifing the OMP to use a different source, does NOT help the delay in metering.
Having said all that, remember that I have always been OMP, AND I dismiss the "problems" others have with synthetic oil, using Amsoil in my "keepers" for 20 years.

 

PS My first "7" went 220,000 miles and 130 autocrosses in 4.5 years under my foot before it was sold. I lost track of it after that. I put a "junkyard" motor in a friends car that was said to have "under 80,000 miles" and he drove it for 210,000 miles and 20 autocrosses in about 5 years before it was wrecked and lost. I have known of many motors that went away at 120 - 150,000 miles. I think rotaries surcumb to the same situations that all other engines do that determine their life, Care and Abuse.

 

Why? Because there's 115k on my 83, and since I already spent a bundle on shocks, brakes, transmission, clutch, radiator, water pump, etc,etc., this year, I want to take every precaution until I can justify a motor. Especially since the motor is very strong - better than my lo-mile 85.

And I DO take care of my car, but age gets to all of us (take it from an expert, I'm 65).

B

 

"""age gets to all of us (take it from an expert, I'm 65)."""

Have you installed a bifocal windsheild yet??

 

No, but I got the walker handgrips on my steering wheel. I don't need the bifocal windshield yet: when there's a problem seeing I just lay one wheel against the curb and drive by feel.

B

 

lol, it wouldn't be hard to fit chrome curb feelers onto your fenders so you don't scrape up the side walls

 

Actually I have found that with the right tires, you can "hear" the difference when you start driving on the white paint line on the right. Of course then you might need to turn the hearing aid up to high!

 

Good thread. Thanks. I've premixed with my stock 12A but mostly just gas and go. 125.000 mi. I never had a problem with premix but my mechanic, who seems to know 7's didn't like the idea so I stopped. Think I will go back to it. Car is in winter storage now for several months. little off the topic but how important is it to fog the engine for storage?

 

I stored my 83 for 3 years once, and we changed ALL the fluids before attempting to turn it over when it came out of mothballs. But ever since, the transmission had a whine that got louder and louder until I replaced it last month. I think that there was some condensation in the xmission that got to the bearings.

B