(INTERIOR) How To: Replace the dash on an 83S
04-10-08, 10:03 PM
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(INTERIOR) How To: Replace the dash on an 83S
I've got a used dash arriving for my 83S tomorrow, and wanted to know if anyone has replaced one before, and can provide some detailed instructions for getting the old one off and the new one on. I've got both the factory and an aftermarket manual, and neither offers any help. Also tried searching the forum, and only found a reference to there being four attachment points. Help! I need to replace this POS dash I've got NOW. TIA,
Dave
Dave
04-11-08, 03:54 AM
#3
79 - 80 SA Dash pad and frame removal
Doc - didn't see it in the Archive. So here it is again...
Some specialty tools that you need BEFORE you start:
-download PDF files of 79-80 RX7 parts catalogue. Its Pg # references are used here.
Use PDF #3 “Body 3 of 4”
-22 mm socket for steering wheel nut (heard the wheel lug wrench may work!)
-Micro/jewellers phillips screwdriver for **** removal
-Micro flat screwdriver for **** removal
-very long (6” SHAFT length MINimum!) phillips screwdriver for instruments
-zip lock bags and labels are your FRIENDS!!!
-digi cam – take pix!!
NOTE: This method involves stripping the dash frame so it can be removed, the dashpad unbolted and replaced. The dash pad is attached to the frame with a series of 10mm nuts along the front (windshield) edge of the pad, as well as 2 nuts on each end of the dash assy.
ALTERNATE (not described fully here): I have heard one person was able to get up under the dash and remove the 10mm nuts and detach the pad without taking out the frame. Would recommend at least removing the instrument cluster and the glove box assy to ease access. Heater and hoses will likely be challenging to work around.
Alrighty then…
1a) disconnect battery!!
1b) remove seats for ease of access to under-dash: 8 x 12mm
2) remove steering wheel:
Remove 22mm nut. To remove wheel, firmly grasp wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock, rock back and forth by alternately pushing and pulling L & R arm.
3) remove covers around steering column. Note that HEADLIGHT switch “tip” just pulls off of stalk. Also, plastic “instruction” cover on left, displaying signal light switch positions, needs to be popped out to allow signal arm thru the cover’s hole.
4) remove surround-trim around instrument cluster face: parts PDF pg 70:
-2 phillips screws under top edge. Might need a stubby screwdriver to get at.
-bottom of surround is held in by two clips that fit horizontally into instrument panel. Just pull surround out straight back to make these release. You will feel resistance to do this!
5) remove cables and wiring harnesses from cluster:
-reach up under dash to RIGHT side of rear of cluster, feel the speedo cable mounting point. The cable attaches by a TAB on the cable end that snaps into the collar on the back of the cluster. You must feel for the tab and squeeze it into the cable and pull to release the cable from the back.
-still at the back there are TWO round harness connectors going into the cluster. Pull these off. NOTE: if difficult, these two connectors CAN be removed as the cluster is being pulled out of the dash...
6) remove instruments: parts page 70
TOOL: need a LONG!! (6”+ shaft) phillips screwdriver to remove 2 phillips screws mounted vertically at the back of the cluster.
- Laying on your back under the instruments, you will see the 2 screws wa-a-a-y up under the dash, one on each side of the steering column. These are facing down at you. It might help to remove the air ducting that drops under the steering col. first. This has one screw holding it into place. There may be one screw attaching it to the column?
- on the front of the instruments, 2 screws hold the cluster up under the top lip. The cluster should now remove towards you and out.
7) remove dash trim panels: PDF Parts Page 61
These are various lower dash pieces on each sided of steering column. NOTE you will need TINY FLAT (?) screwdriver (eg. for eyeglass type) to remove the CHOKE **** so the cable can be released thru the trim panel. The rear hatch release requires the chrome surround collar to be screwed off.
8) remove the Center Panel Assy:
-remove heater control slider *****: NOTE some models these are press-fitted, on others there is a tiny Phillips screw retaining them under each.
-remove fan switch cover. It is 2 piece on later models... just pulls off
-remove the decorative plate UNDER the lip of the pad, above the top of the center console panel (this is marked on Pg 61 as “55217”). This MUST come off before center panel will remove! 2 screws
-remove Shifter surround: 2 screws at the front (nearest center panel) and 2 snap-ins at rear. Obviously, shift **** must be removed...
-press OUT 3 rocker switches on center console. Disconnect harness of each and remove.
-remove radio ***** and nuts behind them. radio stays with dash as panel is removed.
-unscrew 2 screws on BOTTOM of center panel. panel should now be free. NOTE that cig lighter is still attached and may be removed once panel is free, from the back
-NOTE the Heater Control Illumination bulb on the upper left might still be attached as panel is removed. Bulb assy twists out and stays with dash harness.
9) remove Center Console Assy: Parts PDF Pg 83
-remove circular decorative covers (2) on upper sides of console, reveals screws.
-pair of screws also at rear (towards BACK of car, but nearer you) sides of console
-NOTE console’s upper LEFT side extends across under-dash. There is a screw here too.
-There is also likely a screw on the upper RIGHT side which may be hidden by glove box door. NOTE this screw may not be accessible until glove box proper is removed!!
10) remove radio: 2 screws on either side. Disconnect harness AND antenna leads in back.
11) remove heater/ventilation controls matrix. Pg 137
-this is mounted to the dash FRAME. 2 screws, on on each side at front.
-each of the 3 cables are detached at OTHER ends, ie at heater box or blower motor. Single screw holds each in place.
-as you pull matrix out, disconnect fan switch harness
OR: simply disconnect matrix from dash frame, leave lines to heater attached, matrix will stay behind, attached to heater assy
12) remove glove box: Pg 80
-door removed first. Note funky “lever” assy on left that keeps the door from dropping down too much when opened. Unscrew from door assy. Don’t remember all details here but be on the watch for a couple of “gotcha” attachments at rear of actual box...
13) remove air venting pipes. Pg 95
-NOTE some of these are bolted on and cannot be easily (removed) until dash pad comes off. Shouldn’t be a problem. Just get the ones attached to the heater assy and over to the blower. Pull off (meaning pull the VENT end off) the side vent pipes, (these pipes are screwed together so will not pull out of car completely without first detaching screws) the far left and right ones leading to the backs of the side air vents.
- some of the underdash electric harness may be attached to underside of frame and pad - disconnect.
14) Time to remove the pad!! Pg 80
-NOTE the easiest way is to remove the whole pad/frame assy! So-
-remove nuts holding center console of frame to tranny hump -2
-remove 4 (2 per side) nuts holding frame on each side by A pillars
-remove the top “garnish” panel (number 60702 on the illustration) held on by 3 screws hidden under decorative caps. This is the panel running the width of the dash at the base of the windshield. This will reveal a series of 10mm nuts running along the base of the windshield...
-remove these upper retaining nuts (4-6?)
YOU CAN NOW (??) remove the entire frame/pad assy. (With the caveat that I might have forgotten a nut or 2?!)
-now you can manouver the frame as you need to access the 4-6 10mm nuts on the rear (at the firewall side) UNDERside of the pad/frame, removing any vent pipes as needed.
GREAT TIME TO:
-check heater control valve for leaks (dr side of heater, controls hot/cold water flow from radiator) and exchange
-note several small hoses used here. If failing or leaking, it will never be easier to change out. Some coolant will need to be drained to do the above.
-lube any pivoting joints or mechanisms with heater
-check your TRANNY SHIFTER RUBBER BOOTS!! There are THREE and they will be going!!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Some specialty tools that you need BEFORE you start:
-download PDF files of 79-80 RX7 parts catalogue. Its Pg # references are used here.
Use PDF #3 “Body 3 of 4”
-22 mm socket for steering wheel nut (heard the wheel lug wrench may work!)
-Micro/jewellers phillips screwdriver for **** removal
-Micro flat screwdriver for **** removal
-very long (6” SHAFT length MINimum!) phillips screwdriver for instruments
-zip lock bags and labels are your FRIENDS!!!
-digi cam – take pix!!
NOTE: This method involves stripping the dash frame so it can be removed, the dashpad unbolted and replaced. The dash pad is attached to the frame with a series of 10mm nuts along the front (windshield) edge of the pad, as well as 2 nuts on each end of the dash assy.
ALTERNATE (not described fully here): I have heard one person was able to get up under the dash and remove the 10mm nuts and detach the pad without taking out the frame. Would recommend at least removing the instrument cluster and the glove box assy to ease access. Heater and hoses will likely be challenging to work around.
Alrighty then…
1a) disconnect battery!!
1b) remove seats for ease of access to under-dash: 8 x 12mm
2) remove steering wheel:
Remove 22mm nut. To remove wheel, firmly grasp wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock, rock back and forth by alternately pushing and pulling L & R arm.
3) remove covers around steering column. Note that HEADLIGHT switch “tip” just pulls off of stalk. Also, plastic “instruction” cover on left, displaying signal light switch positions, needs to be popped out to allow signal arm thru the cover’s hole.
4) remove surround-trim around instrument cluster face: parts PDF pg 70:
-2 phillips screws under top edge. Might need a stubby screwdriver to get at.
-bottom of surround is held in by two clips that fit horizontally into instrument panel. Just pull surround out straight back to make these release. You will feel resistance to do this!
5) remove cables and wiring harnesses from cluster:
-reach up under dash to RIGHT side of rear of cluster, feel the speedo cable mounting point. The cable attaches by a TAB on the cable end that snaps into the collar on the back of the cluster. You must feel for the tab and squeeze it into the cable and pull to release the cable from the back.
-still at the back there are TWO round harness connectors going into the cluster. Pull these off. NOTE: if difficult, these two connectors CAN be removed as the cluster is being pulled out of the dash...
6) remove instruments: parts page 70
TOOL: need a LONG!! (6”+ shaft) phillips screwdriver to remove 2 phillips screws mounted vertically at the back of the cluster.
- Laying on your back under the instruments, you will see the 2 screws wa-a-a-y up under the dash, one on each side of the steering column. These are facing down at you. It might help to remove the air ducting that drops under the steering col. first. This has one screw holding it into place. There may be one screw attaching it to the column?
- on the front of the instruments, 2 screws hold the cluster up under the top lip. The cluster should now remove towards you and out.
7) remove dash trim panels: PDF Parts Page 61
These are various lower dash pieces on each sided of steering column. NOTE you will need TINY FLAT (?) screwdriver (eg. for eyeglass type) to remove the CHOKE **** so the cable can be released thru the trim panel. The rear hatch release requires the chrome surround collar to be screwed off.
8) remove the Center Panel Assy:
-remove heater control slider *****: NOTE some models these are press-fitted, on others there is a tiny Phillips screw retaining them under each.
-remove fan switch cover. It is 2 piece on later models... just pulls off
-remove the decorative plate UNDER the lip of the pad, above the top of the center console panel (this is marked on Pg 61 as “55217”). This MUST come off before center panel will remove! 2 screws
-remove Shifter surround: 2 screws at the front (nearest center panel) and 2 snap-ins at rear. Obviously, shift **** must be removed...
-press OUT 3 rocker switches on center console. Disconnect harness of each and remove.
-remove radio ***** and nuts behind them. radio stays with dash as panel is removed.
-unscrew 2 screws on BOTTOM of center panel. panel should now be free. NOTE that cig lighter is still attached and may be removed once panel is free, from the back
-NOTE the Heater Control Illumination bulb on the upper left might still be attached as panel is removed. Bulb assy twists out and stays with dash harness.
9) remove Center Console Assy: Parts PDF Pg 83
-remove circular decorative covers (2) on upper sides of console, reveals screws.
-pair of screws also at rear (towards BACK of car, but nearer you) sides of console
-NOTE console’s upper LEFT side extends across under-dash. There is a screw here too.
-There is also likely a screw on the upper RIGHT side which may be hidden by glove box door. NOTE this screw may not be accessible until glove box proper is removed!!
10) remove radio: 2 screws on either side. Disconnect harness AND antenna leads in back.
11) remove heater/ventilation controls matrix. Pg 137
-this is mounted to the dash FRAME. 2 screws, on on each side at front.
-each of the 3 cables are detached at OTHER ends, ie at heater box or blower motor. Single screw holds each in place.
-as you pull matrix out, disconnect fan switch harness
OR: simply disconnect matrix from dash frame, leave lines to heater attached, matrix will stay behind, attached to heater assy
12) remove glove box: Pg 80
-door removed first. Note funky “lever” assy on left that keeps the door from dropping down too much when opened. Unscrew from door assy. Don’t remember all details here but be on the watch for a couple of “gotcha” attachments at rear of actual box...
13) remove air venting pipes. Pg 95
-NOTE some of these are bolted on and cannot be easily (removed) until dash pad comes off. Shouldn’t be a problem. Just get the ones attached to the heater assy and over to the blower. Pull off (meaning pull the VENT end off) the side vent pipes, (these pipes are screwed together so will not pull out of car completely without first detaching screws) the far left and right ones leading to the backs of the side air vents.
- some of the underdash electric harness may be attached to underside of frame and pad - disconnect.
14) Time to remove the pad!! Pg 80
-NOTE the easiest way is to remove the whole pad/frame assy! So-
-remove nuts holding center console of frame to tranny hump -2
-remove 4 (2 per side) nuts holding frame on each side by A pillars
-remove the top “garnish” panel (number 60702 on the illustration) held on by 3 screws hidden under decorative caps. This is the panel running the width of the dash at the base of the windshield. This will reveal a series of 10mm nuts running along the base of the windshield...
-remove these upper retaining nuts (4-6?)
YOU CAN NOW (??) remove the entire frame/pad assy. (With the caveat that I might have forgotten a nut or 2?!)
-now you can manouver the frame as you need to access the 4-6 10mm nuts on the rear (at the firewall side) UNDERside of the pad/frame, removing any vent pipes as needed.
GREAT TIME TO:
-check heater control valve for leaks (dr side of heater, controls hot/cold water flow from radiator) and exchange
-note several small hoses used here. If failing or leaking, it will never be easier to change out. Some coolant will need to be drained to do the above.
-lube any pivoting joints or mechanisms with heater
-check your TRANNY SHIFTER RUBBER BOOTS!! There are THREE and they will be going!!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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