Jozay721

o thanks,

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The Carter pumps on my REPUs are quiet. When on ewas on my GLC mounted to sheet metal, it was extremely loud. Yes, use the frame rail. Adequate power is also a good idea.

DublyDurty

Jeff20B,

Mine is mounted on the frame rail and it's really loud and I've read many other similar complaints. I hope Kentetsu jumps back in here and finds the time to post a couple of pix for the electrically inept like me to follow. I don't want to screw up a car that already works, in the hopes of improving it.

DD

Kentetsu

The wiring of the relay is really pretty simple once you understand the function of it. The only part of the original wiring that you need to use is the striped wire that feeds through the bottom of the storage bin to get to the fuel pump. You don't even have to cut any wires, just unplug it right at that point and take the power from that plug. That wire will be used to "trigger" the relay. Everything else is pretty straight forward. Sorry, but I really don't have the time right now for pics or anything due to all h@ll breaking loose at work...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Fyi, technically there is a stock fpr. It is that little silver barrel in the return line between the carb and the firewall hard line. It is also a oneway valve so expanding fumes in the tank don't push fuel back into the carb and flood the engine.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

DD, did you use rubber standoffs?

DublyDurty

Kentetsu,
Thanks for the followup. I think I can handle it now. Hope work gets better.


trochoid,
Thanks for the correction. I guess I didn't consider the "fuel check valve" an FPR in a real sense since, as you said, its just a oneway valve (doesn't regulate until it gets plugged with gunk - then it regulates real good - down to 0 psi). I was thinking more in terms of if Jozay721 tried to order a stock FPR for his car - he'd likely be told it doesn't have one and then he'd be more confused than I usually am.


Jeff20B,
Yep. Rubber standoffs installed. It's not a vibration - just a loud (so, annoying) hum.


Thanks,

DD

Jozay721

cool, so lets say i bout a fpr, i could just take the silver barrel out and fit the regulator there??wats the difference with the little barrel(checkvalve) and the fpr??

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Depends on the style of fpr that you use. The most common ones are the Holley, which are a non-reurn style. In that case, take the stock fpr/check valve and turn it around, that will block the return. If you get something like the Mallory 4309, that is a return style, you will need to block off the return hose from the stock carb with a bolt and clamp, then tie the hard return line into the 4309.

If you upgrade the pump to one that needs a return, make sure you get a good return style fpr. Upgraded pumps do not need to flow over 70 gpm. Don't make the mistake I did and buy something like the Mallory Comp 140. The 140 outflows what's needed for a 300 hp TII, volume wise. The Comp 70 is more than enough.

Blk82GSL

Jerking it back up to the top. I just got through installing my pump and FPR today. First thing I noticed was the racket. I thought no big deal, Just reinstall the storage bin and close the lid, lol. Yeah right!! I didn't even snap that the stock pump was mounted to a seperate piece of steel, and with rubber insulators no less. I will also be relaying the power supply as I noticed the brake light cycling, it even dropped with turning on the headlights. No big deal, relays are easy, and everything but the power wire from the battery can be hidden.

No pics of the pump mount yet, but I have a pic of the FPR with my home made bracket. Mounted above the pinch weld, with the supply line between the heater hoses. I have about a 1/4 inch or so of clearance to the hood. Whoever mentioned watching that was dead on!! It must be nice to have those earlier models, and de-emissioned cars. This was literally the only open spot on the firewall in my car.

Kentetsu

Now that I am home and can actually see the photos you posted, the answers are Yes, and Yes.

I was also considering making a mount for the Carter, to further isolate it from the chassis. This would probably make it even easier to mount if done correctly. Maybe someone should draw up a design for Billy over at Respeed?

Jozay721

but y take the check valve and turn it around?? y not just remove it, is there much of a difference??

cdrad51

Because you want to block the return line and that accomplishes it. The Holley FPR goes before the inlet gas line, not where the stock fpr is.

Blk82GSL

Why block the return line? What am I missing. It still functions right? If you wanted to block it, you could unhook both ends of the line under the hood, and cap them?

Blk82GSL

I got the pump remounted today, with some 1/2" thick rubber bushings, and power from a relay. It's still noticable but not as loud as before. It also still drops a bit when the brakes are applied, and
whe n headlights are turned on. That is also not as bad, though. Overall it's an improvement, and worth the few hours of time spent.

I'm still intrigued by the blocking of the return line? What purpose does it serve??

perfect_circle

you block the return, on the carb, because the fpr has a return, so the fpr is only sending the exact ammount of fuel the carb needs. if its too much, it backs up into the fpr when the needle closes, and the backed up fuel in the fpr goes out the return on the fpr. does that make sense?

Maitlandtron

When the ignition switch is turned on, is the fuel pump running constatnly? Or does it only prime for a couple seconds and then turn back on when the engine starts?

Kentetsu

This will all depend on how you have it wired. Describe where you are drawing the power to trigger the relay and maybe I can figure it out for you...

Jozay721

my fuel pump runs constantly with the switch on

Blk82GSL

So does mine. My brother got a kit from somewhere to convert his Firedbird to FI. Not
a big deal until you know it's a 68 OHC straight six, hehe. But anyway, his pump does the turn off and restart once the engine is started thing. The 1st gen. RX7 pumps run anytime the key is on. Power trigger for the relay is the old positive wire from the pump harness. I am thinking of snagging a cutoff switch somewhere, so the pump doesn't keep running if the car flips and I'm unconcious, lol.

Blk82GSL

And my FPR doesn't have a return that I know of? It can be routed with one, I think?

Blk82GSL

And is there any way to resize that giant friggin picture?? lol!!

Kentetsu

The need for trailing spark in order for the pump to run was not initiated until the 84/85 cars as a safety measure. If your FPR doesn't have a return line, don't worry about it. With the FPR in place to control the pressure, the return line is redundant.

Blk82GSL

Unless you have emissions testing in your area, hehe.

Mazdahead

I've done this install and have done almost everything wrong that you guys have warned about and have suffered the consequences. Let me elaborate, tried the regulator with the sterling carb and the stock pump, absolute crap! Mounted the carter pump and didn't use a filter up front and spent a whole day at the track cleaning the dirt out of my regulator and carb. I think I finally have it running properly and am getting real good mid-range power, but the car will not pull past 7000 rpm and begins to break up around 6500 rpm.
I am not sure if this is a carb problem or a direct fire problem, but wanted some advice.
I have the direct fire setup from the forum installed and finally figured out that my timing was way off from the recomended 24 BTD, put it as close as I could and it ran pretty good, started feeling like I was getting somewhere with the new sterling carb. After I worked thru the problems I mentioned above, I started at 2psi as recomended and it wasn't very good, went up to 2.25 psi and it got better, moved to 2.5 psi and had the best performance. I Finished the day at the track with a slightly improved time from the spring and no top end from the engine.
I am trying to figure out why I have no top end? I have not moved the trailing timing to 10 degrees away from the leading, so it must be set to factory, could this be my problem?
The fuel pressure is staying very good at 2.5 psi with all of the parts everyone else is using, set the timing at 24 degrees BTDC and the only thing I can think of is the trailing timing.
I have an issue with the distributor, so did not try to set the trailing timing at the track, maybe I should have taken the time, looking back. I figured I would install my new corectly marked pulley before I tried to do this. Gonna try this week! Oh, thought I would mention, I am using vacuum advance and the distributor has the centrifigul advance operational too. The only other thing that I think it could be is the jetting, which I do not believe is the issue, since I did everythig else wrong at the start and I think Carl knows his stuff! Here is another question, hoping carl sees this post? What jets are beng used for my carb and what range of jets do I want? Standard port, headers, rats nest removed, DLSFI ignition. I want to be able to fine tune it if I need to in the future. Help me Carl! lol