Speaking of exhaust, mine sounds pretty mellow. Good luck on yours.

 

Mellow?

This is going to be loud, 3-2-1 extractors, medium length into a 3" pipe, then into a single 3" straight through SelectMaz muffler. (www.selectmaz.com.au) Should sound nice, had a nice note with the 13B Bridge Port.

 

Ah, then it should be even louder with the 20B's 120° rotor phasing. At least on a 13B, the rotors are 180° out of phase which allows for some noise canceling in the exhaust system. Think of two speakers wired out of phase and the resulting reduction in audio response. It's different for a 20B. There will always be a loud part and a quiet part. The two blend together and the end result is interesting to listen to.

Oh, don't mind me. I just love the sound of a 20B. I've included a zipped MP3 audio clip of mine which I just got running only a few minutes prior. It needs tuning, but this should give you an idea.

 

very sexy

 

Well Jeff, thanks to that video clip, I now will be broke for the next 10 years. Appreciate that. Now I have to go buy one.

 

im trying to save up some money for an engine swap, and at first i was set on the t2 engine/tranny, but i think this would be a much cooler engine to have. but i have a few questions.

1. my rx7 is going to be a daily driver that i would like to take to the track every once in a while, and maybe the occasional street race. is this a good engine for city/highway driving? i just want to make sure the car will still run well at low rpm's and normal driving.

2. what would be the best transmission to use with this engine?

3. how much do you think it would cost to have a shop to pull my engine out and put this one in? not including the price of the engine/tranny. in just trying to get an idea on how much it will be for the swap

4. would a t2 motor be better as a daily driver, or should i stick with the 20b?

thanks in advance.

 

one more question: if something breaks on a 20b, would it be a pain in the *** to find parts for it?

 

anyone?? (sorry for the triple post)

 

1. I couldn't tell you.

2. It depends on the power you want to push through it. I'd think anything over 200HP and you'll need something stronger.

3. Oh my. Count on $30k or so since it's a custom engine install which requires lots of man-hours. $15k if you do it yourself.

4. Yes, a T2 would be a better engine choice for you.

5. Expensive, but not impossible to find parts.

You're much better off doing a T2. Seriously.

 

thanks for the response. i had no idea it would cost THAT much. T2 it is.

 

Nice ride.

 

Hey mate excellent looking conversion - I'm looking at performing the same on my S1 - first of all any info you could provide me with in regards to mounting the engine would be great and any overly fiddly stuff you may have come across. Secondly is yours engineered & legal and do you have any drama's with the police? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Ryan.

 

1. 20B will have better drivability due to greater torque. No doubt it will use a lot more fuel though too, but if you were worried about that, you wouldn't be into performance cars.

2. Take a pick, how much money do you have?

3. I paid what works out to be under $10 USD for the engine, full rebuild, porting, ecu, radiator, box, clutch, fans etc, 044 pump, pre pump, surge tank, exhaust, fitting, everything.

4. If you need to ask this question, go with the T2.

 

mad props!!!! looks sooo good in there. like it's meant to be when i get tired of my 12a turbo setup, i might just have something in mind.

 

Website should be up & working now www.rotary20b.com

Please ignore the earlier links and go straight to the website to dl

 

1. gas is expensive, but i think if i have it set for very low boost while im just driving around, it probably wont be bad on mpg.

2. im just looking for the best one. im going to try to put out as much money up front as i can, but i can always get a loan.

3. $10k seems like a much better price than $30k, but i wonder how much it would cost to have a shop do the work?

4. i need to ask this question because im still learning about cars, and trying to learn as much as possible about rotaries.

i would like to do this swap in the near future, but before that im getting an "83 gsl rear end w/ LSD, new rotors and pads, springs, rear shocks, front strut inserts, front and rear sway bars, and a strut bar. that way, it will make the car safer for me to drive for now, i wont need anything else after the swap, and in the time it takes me to save up the money i will be a more experienced driver, i will know a lot more about the car, and ill be ready to handle 300+hp in a 2300 lb car.

EDIT: by the way, awesome website but your videos dont seem to be working. it might just be my computer though.

 

Hi dude,

Great ride. Don't see too many 20b's here in SA but there are a few, your example is one of the best I have seen in a long time!!

btw, if anyone is interested, this guy is pretty cool and his web has some good info on his 3rotor Cosmo's. And yes, he is Australian (we are nuts here. haha.)

www.3rotor.com

 

That 10k, that is for a workshop to do all the work.

I'd ask around over there, because 30k for a conversion is rediculous. Admittedly I did pay a lot less for this conversion as I have been going to this workshop now for 10 years.

But no one over here would pay 30k USD for a conversion. The highest I was quoted was "15-20k $A" (between $11,300 & $15,090 USD).

Thanks mate With the videos, some are in divx format, you will need to go to www.divx.xom to download the viewer. All the 20B startup videos are in .avi and should play through any player. Let me know which vids you are having probs with and I will have a look.

 

I have just uploaded another video taken this afternoon

Video is taken outside of workshop, still untuned (running very rich)

www.rotary20b.com/videos/rx7-1.avi (13.3 mb)

Would people prefer me to convert them to mpg making them much smaller with a slight drop in quality?

 

hey mate how do you or what do you do to get the rotor housings that color ...is it powder coating .send me a pm

 

Well a bit has happened since I last posted about the car

First off, engine spun a bearing, seems as though there was something dodgy in the oil

Whatever it was, ate the paint off the workshop floor

I have been running in the new engine over the last couple of weeks

Just got back from the dyno this morning

Engine made 245hp and was still making power over 8300 rpm

This was on a dyno dynamics dyno (normally read around 15% less than a dyno jet)

 

How does the extra weight over the front end feel? Which springs?

 

What all 20 kilos of it? SFA difference over the 13B

Same springs as 13B

The engine sits a lot further back than the 13B too

All you have is an extra rotor, end plate, bit more weight for the larger centre plate & alloy rotor housing & crank

 

I've figured that it's 70 to 80lbs more than the 13B. Mine is back so far that I can use the front cover mount in the stock location. It also has a light steel flywheel, FC NA waterpump and starter. The only weight I added to the front end was a front mount oil cooler.

If I relocate the battery, it'll shave about 40lbs. I think that, coupled with the short header and the engine being so far back, brings it to within 40lbs of the 13B. Then again, the 13B was an old 4 port with a 30lbs flywheel and the cast iron waterpump. It also had the heavy rotors and an exhaust manifold which concentrated its weight right next to the engine. The 20B header weighs the same (21lbs), but only half is next to the engine; the rest goes rearward.

I can sort of recall that I was doing some weight calculations last year and figured it would break even over the front end, compared to when it had the heavy 13B, if I relocated the battery. I didn't drive it much, but the front end felt heavy. The springs are stock and are pretty soft so I think they're at the end of their useful life.

 

how fast will that go?