(ELECTRICAL) fusable links
04-03-02, 03:21 AM
#29
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04-03-02, 03:22 AM
#30
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04-03-02, 03:26 AM
#31
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04-03-02, 10:24 AM
#34
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I did this conversion because I put a second gen alternator in my 80, the old one was tired and I am running a couple of amps for my stereo and I am installing Piaa foglights along with other stuff. I am heading for work now, but I will post the "how to" tonight. It was very easy. Basically all you are doing is "cutting out" the old fusible links and "wiring in" a new fuse block.
I will post the info tonight.
hanman
I will post the info tonight.
hanman
04-04-02, 09:22 AM
#38
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Guys,
Don't worry about bumping it up. I will find it, and put the information in. I am going to take a couple of more pics, to show some of the wiring. There is really two things that I have done here. 1. the second gen fuse block. 2. the second gen alternator.
I will include info on both.
Hopefully tonight! This damn job keeps interfering with the important stuff!
hanman
Don't worry about bumping it up. I will find it, and put the information in. I am going to take a couple of more pics, to show some of the wiring. There is really two things that I have done here. 1. the second gen fuse block. 2. the second gen alternator.
I will include info on both.
Hopefully tonight! This damn job keeps interfering with the important stuff!
hanman
04-05-02, 10:28 AM
#41
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OK, here goes,
The car: 1980 RX-GS 12A
The mods: Second gen alternator install, second gen fuse block replacing the stock fusible links.
Basically what I did and why..... My stock alternator was getting weak, plus it's only rated at 50 amps. So I had a spare alternator out of a 86 second gen base model. The second gen alternator is rated at something like 70 amps. So I removed the stock alternator and replaced it with the second gen. My understanding is if you use a alt. from an 86-88 it is basically a straight bolt in. I may have used the long bolt from the second gen, I don't remember. But, if you use an 86-88 alt. the wiring connector plugs right in with no alterations. You can use a 89+, but you will have to "tweak" the wiring. So, anyway, the alt. just bolted on and plugged in.
Then, to be safe I wanted to get rid of the old fusible links and replace them with a fuse block. I bought one off of ebay for $5.00. You can use any fuse block basically, I think any 626, 323 or second gen will work. The one in my Ford (Mazda) Probe looks like it will work, except it is too big, with too many fuses. So, find one in a junk yard and you are good to go.
Then, I cut the old links out, found some mounting hardware in my spare parts bin (the back of my 65 F-100), and mounted as per the pics. For wiring I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the 80 amp fuse in the new block, and on the other side of the 80 amp connection I ran a 10 ga. wire to the positive battery terminal. I then simply wired the wires that were on the links to the new fuse block. You are just simply cutting out the old links and replacing them with the new fuses. If I remember correctly, there are four wires, the main (goes to the 80 amp fuse), the ignition wire red/white to the 60 amp, the headlights (I used one of the 30 amp fuses), and the headlight retractors ( I used another one of the 30 amp fuses). This will leave you with a 30, and 40 amp fuse openings to use for whatever you wish, stereo, electric fan, foglights etc.
Essentially, what you are doing is wiring the fuse block up to be a power source for what ever you want to put on it. The hot wire from the battery goes to the main 80 amp on one side of the fuse block, and then gives you power on the other side of the block for all of your fuses.
heres a pic...
Here is a copy of another post from someone who has also done this mod:
The red/white wire going out from the fusible links is the main power wire to the ignition switch. Don't pay attention to the color of the alt wire. I wired a new heavy guage red wire from the alt to the 80 amp buss on the fuse block. Do not wire anything from the neg side of the battery to the fuse block. The block is supposed to be hot, not grounded, wiring the neg side of the battery in will short things out. Just because the second gen wire is black does not mean its is a ground wire. Wire a fresh red wire from the battery plus to the other side of the 80 amp buss. Pop the little covers on both sides of the fuse block and wire the new alt and battery wires in with ring-type connectors, bolted down. If you look at the block, you can see that the powered leads all come out one side. Hook the alt wire to that side of the block, the battery charging wire to the other (hope this is clear). This gives you fuse protection on your charging circuit and provides power to the other fuses in the fuse block. Wire the 60 amp buss to the red/white ignition wire that came out of the fusible links. Use the other 20/30 amp fuse busses to power the lights/headlight motors/and (in my case) electric fan...
That's it!
hope this helps,
hanman
The car: 1980 RX-GS 12A
The mods: Second gen alternator install, second gen fuse block replacing the stock fusible links.
Basically what I did and why..... My stock alternator was getting weak, plus it's only rated at 50 amps. So I had a spare alternator out of a 86 second gen base model. The second gen alternator is rated at something like 70 amps. So I removed the stock alternator and replaced it with the second gen. My understanding is if you use a alt. from an 86-88 it is basically a straight bolt in. I may have used the long bolt from the second gen, I don't remember. But, if you use an 86-88 alt. the wiring connector plugs right in with no alterations. You can use a 89+, but you will have to "tweak" the wiring. So, anyway, the alt. just bolted on and plugged in.
Then, to be safe I wanted to get rid of the old fusible links and replace them with a fuse block. I bought one off of ebay for $5.00. You can use any fuse block basically, I think any 626, 323 or second gen will work. The one in my Ford (Mazda) Probe looks like it will work, except it is too big, with too many fuses. So, find one in a junk yard and you are good to go.
Then, I cut the old links out, found some mounting hardware in my spare parts bin (the back of my 65 F-100), and mounted as per the pics. For wiring I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the 80 amp fuse in the new block, and on the other side of the 80 amp connection I ran a 10 ga. wire to the positive battery terminal. I then simply wired the wires that were on the links to the new fuse block. You are just simply cutting out the old links and replacing them with the new fuses. If I remember correctly, there are four wires, the main (goes to the 80 amp fuse), the ignition wire red/white to the 60 amp, the headlights (I used one of the 30 amp fuses), and the headlight retractors ( I used another one of the 30 amp fuses). This will leave you with a 30, and 40 amp fuse openings to use for whatever you wish, stereo, electric fan, foglights etc.
Essentially, what you are doing is wiring the fuse block up to be a power source for what ever you want to put on it. The hot wire from the battery goes to the main 80 amp on one side of the fuse block, and then gives you power on the other side of the block for all of your fuses.
heres a pic...
Here is a copy of another post from someone who has also done this mod:
The red/white wire going out from the fusible links is the main power wire to the ignition switch. Don't pay attention to the color of the alt wire. I wired a new heavy guage red wire from the alt to the 80 amp buss on the fuse block. Do not wire anything from the neg side of the battery to the fuse block. The block is supposed to be hot, not grounded, wiring the neg side of the battery in will short things out. Just because the second gen wire is black does not mean its is a ground wire. Wire a fresh red wire from the battery plus to the other side of the 80 amp buss. Pop the little covers on both sides of the fuse block and wire the new alt and battery wires in with ring-type connectors, bolted down. If you look at the block, you can see that the powered leads all come out one side. Hook the alt wire to that side of the block, the battery charging wire to the other (hope this is clear). This gives you fuse protection on your charging circuit and provides power to the other fuses in the fuse block. Wire the 60 amp buss to the red/white ignition wire that came out of the fusible links. Use the other 20/30 amp fuse busses to power the lights/headlight motors/and (in my case) electric fan...
That's it!
hope this helps,
hanman
Last edited by hanman; 04-05-02 at 11:05 AM.
04-05-02, 10:33 AM
#42
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More info:
Also, the bracket the holds the fusible block can be inubolted and removed, with a little
trimming the second gen block bolts to the fender in the same place and looks stock...
Also, the bracket the holds the fusible block can be inubolted and removed, with a little
trimming the second gen block bolts to the fender in the same place and looks stock...
04-05-02, 11:53 AM
#43
Great Job.
Thanks. I will be doing this, as now I have a 90 Amp alternator from the Cosmo engine, and want to run 3 seperate electric fans like I did in my old SE.
Why Three?
2 - 16" for Radiator (1 Pusher & 1 Puller)
1 - 12" for the A/C Condenser Coil.
Worked Awesome. SUPER Cold A/C even in 90 degree weather in traffic.
1
Thanks. I will be doing this, as now I have a 90 Amp alternator from the Cosmo engine, and want to run 3 seperate electric fans like I did in my old SE.
Why Three?
2 - 16" for Radiator (1 Pusher & 1 Puller)
1 - 12" for the A/C Condenser Coil.
Worked Awesome. SUPER Cold A/C even in 90 degree weather in traffic.
1
04-05-02, 01:26 PM
#44
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Thanks,
A 90 amp would be nice. Although, the nice thing about the alt. I used was it connected without any wiring changes. I am going to use my extra fuses for a set of Piaa's and eventually an electric fan.
Good luck,
hanman
A 90 amp would be nice. Although, the nice thing about the alt. I used was it connected without any wiring changes. I am going to use my extra fuses for a set of Piaa's and eventually an electric fan.
Good luck,
hanman
04-05-02, 07:16 PM
#46
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It took me 1/2 day to find the friggin parts to mount it in the back of my truck, otherwise it was easy. How long does it take to wire something up?
Or are you complaining?
hanman
Or are you complaining?
hanman
04-05-02, 07:26 PM
#47
Rotary Freak
well since my breaker "main center breaker" keeps "breakin" i tore out all three,
i dont really have the space to put in my triple agu setup yet so i just threw in a one 1agu - four 10agu distributor box,
i know,i know its crazy not having fuses but i'll be swithing it over soon enough,
will post pics tommorow of what my dfi setup looks like,
three coils and a msd 6a box all crammed where the old coils and fusible links were,
well the coils are actually by the strut,
its pretty packed,
also did anyone who knows msd products notice the new blaster 2 coils are smaller than the old ones?
its true the new coil i bought is smaller in diameter then my two old ones.
i dont really have the space to put in my triple agu setup yet so i just threw in a one 1agu - four 10agu distributor box,
i know,i know its crazy not having fuses but i'll be swithing it over soon enough,
will post pics tommorow of what my dfi setup looks like,
three coils and a msd 6a box all crammed where the old coils and fusible links were,
well the coils are actually by the strut,
its pretty packed,
also did anyone who knows msd products notice the new blaster 2 coils are smaller than the old ones?
its true the new coil i bought is smaller in diameter then my two old ones.
04-05-02, 09:43 PM
#48
Originally posted by mar3
took you a half hour, my ***....
took you a half hour, my ***....
Hanman, Mar 3 just means it looks like it took over half an hour to install.
Again, good work, good write-up, worth the wait.
Personally, I think this should be archived.
Moderators?
