We haven't removed the omp. Didn't even look at how it could be removed. Sorry, hopefully someone else has pulled one and can tell you.

As for the injectors, they just screw-out like big hex. head bolts (19mm wrench, I think).

Plan on finding the lines in need of replacement. Both lines going to the intake manifold injectors broke as soon as the injectors started rotating upon their removal. It was like inevitible, they were just that brittle.

 

I mentioned this in another post of mine, but never got a straight answer. Is it necessary while your down there doing this to remove the oil injectors and clean those up? or is the oil injector just pretty much a ******* pipe that has no spray pattern and dumps oil in the engine, thus not requiring cleaning?

thx

 

I don't think they have any defined spray pattern. Here's where they sit on the top:

And here's the opening that the oil comes through:



There's a decent amount of distance between the end of the injector and the opening, so even if it did spray in a pattern, it would just be an undefined blob by the time it hit the opening.

I'm thinking that carb cleaner would be ok for cleaning the injectors and pump, what do you guys think?

 

The injector is sucking at the metered oil on it's intake stroke. There'd have to be some degree of atomization.

The injectors have what looks like a rubber poppet valve inside. Does carb cleaner have any bad effects on rubber? Probably not in the short run.

 

Ok, I just ordered my tubing and am pulling out the FSM to read up on OMP removal. That site rocks, got a good SPDT relay for $5.87 I'm moving my stereo off the stock wiring and planning on running a line directly from the battery.

Anyways, this should be a great project. Thanks for the all the info you posted.

BTW, I checked the PDF page that has the tubing on it and it's primary use is for air brake lines, and is rated at 150psi. That should handle oil injection with no problem.

 

Were you on page 4120? I think you were reading the header stuff for "D.O.T. Type “A” Nylon Air Brake Tubing".

Look to the bottom-left section of that page with the heading "Teflon® (FEP & PFA) Flexible Tubing". That's the section that has the #48701031 tubing.

No problem with your order though, as long as you bought the 48701031 tubing.

You should see their printed catalog. It's hardbound with real thin pages and is 8.5 x 11, about 4" thick! I just checked, it has 4,640 pages, not including the 96-page index in the back. It's like a NY city phone book. Their distribution centers must be HUGE! Yet, our orders always arrive next-day here from Atlanta. Amazing, really.

 

Hey, what you need is a Haynes manual. Seriously, it'll be worth its weight in gold. I always buy a Haynes manual for all of my cars (nothing but Haynes).

Having said that, and assuming you get one, I found the answer to everything you have asked right in there just now. Chapter 2 Part A section 9. It tells you how to check your oil injector nozzles, check your oil metering pump (output volume), how to remove the metering pump (did you know there are mechanically controlled and also electrically controlled omp's? I didn't ), how to adjust the mecancially controlled ones... good stuff.

I'm gonna go check MRX Rotary's oil injectors right now... now that I know how. (You should be able to blow thru them by mouth from the air hose connector, but not in the opposite direction.)

 

One final pic - finished the install & all seems well.

I was concerned about the lack of oil injection during the time it took the omp to finally fill the new lines to get oil to the injectors. We added even more mmo to the gas for a little more lubricity / protection. There was only a little over 1/4 tank of gas - good for that rich mix for a short duration. Turns out, it takes maybe 20 - 30 miles of common driving to fill the new lines.

I had no idea of how to pre-fill them. Then again, I didn't know they wouldn't fill-up at initial crank-up either. I guess that's why they call it a "metering" pump, huh? I suppose a very small squirter, bent at its tip to get to the itty bitty hole in the banjo fitting... ah heck with that. Just let the omp fill your lines & add a stiff dose of mmo to your gas, or what those people do who aren't even using their injectors, if you want, just for that 20 - 30 mile fill-up period.

So, did anybody else do this yet?

 

I'm about to, I just sent my injectors out for a cleaning, and as soon as they get back I'll begin.

 

Fijenson did it & thought his lines melted BUT, he found out later that they are just fine

Here's the thread (that I wish would be deleted now)... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0&page=1&pp=15

All is well with the world.

 

This thread belongs in the archives...

 

I agree, there is another write up that is just as good. The Mods need to re-title the threads so that it reads more to the point, like "How to fix you OMP lines"

Seems there are quirks to the S4-S5 that pop up over and over. OMP lines, Premix, FPD, TPS, That bolt that goes under the starter being different. Most of the threads are already there but a few need to be added.

 

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