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I have been in the process of my build for some time and thought I’d start this for others as build threads have helped me and for assistance from others in what lies ahead.
As intro, I’ve owned all three gens as well as a '67 Triumph GT-6, '65 Lemans convertible (with a transplanted 428), '83 Dodge D150 and a '71 Norton Commando (only the Commando and FD remain).
Obviously, I’m pretty much a gear head (as I’m sure as most are on this site). I’m the second owner of a '94 Touring MB FD since 1999 and my dad was the original owner, so it’s been in the family since day 1.
It was pretty much babied and left alone for 15 years, that is until I started tracking it, COMPLETELY STOCK! It did great (for a while). It really hugged the curves and had just enough power to keep up with most of the pack. The only issue I had was brakes. The stock brakes were not enough for track abuse so I upgraded to Hawk DTC pads which was a much needed improvement. More recently I added an oil catch can and relocated the battery to the hatch.
Being completely stock with the stock gauges, ignorance was truly bliss. I was fat dumb and happy for three or so years until the NASA mid-Atlantic finale 2013 when I got on the track four times vice the usual three. Well that pretty much cooked my O-rings. I actually had installed an oil and water temp gauges just before that event, but was having too much fun to accept what the new gauges were telling me, especially since i had tracked it numerous times before to no avail
Luckily (for me), a local Mazda club member indicated he totaled his FD with a practically new reman engine. I jumped at this as the insurance price was only slightly more than the cost of a new reman.
After I got the donor engine out, I read about quality control issues...
First time doing this, but found it fairly easy and straightforward (taking things apart is the easy part, putting them back back together is the hard part).
I found the FSM and instructions at Rotary Resurection quite helpful (though it would be even better if their pictures were a little bigger)
I decided against that as the frame is undoubtedly bent and paying to have that fixed and then rebuilding my original engine just wasn't worth it. Plus i don't have the space for two FDs, nor have a trailer for a dedicated track car.
After i got the engine out, i tore it down and drove it up to IRP for a rebuild.
Transmission removed
Nicely fits in a keg cooler
Tearing down at IRP. Somebody may recognize their car in the background
Note rust in lower coolant passages. Although this is new reman, it had been sitting for several months in the insurance lot before i got it.
My goals for the build is a dual purpose car, but with a nod to track use. I know the road down this path is a waste of money as the road usually ends up with a full track car. Oh well, i guess i'll go down this road anyway. Maybe by the time i get to the end of that road, i will have moved to Charlottesville and have a nice three car garage for both my track and DD FDs
Anyway, with dual purpose in mind, i spec'd an aggressive street port, RX Parts Seals, and viton water seals. Also had the oil and water passages as well as the turbo wastegate ported.
Primary use will be track days with some street driving. Know Ohlins are the way to go with Teins a good budget compromise, but not knowing exactly what I need, decided to go Ground Control/Koni route first and see how they do before spending big bucks. Also, at only 65k miles, my bushings were ready to get replaced.
<br/>Tearing down the front suspension
LCA
With the suspensions components out, thought i'd clean them up. Got a cheap soda blaster from Eastwood that worked ok for the few parts i needed to clean.
. New pillowballs....
(and yes, dust caps were installed)
and new Super Pro bushes throughout with zerks....
I used Neo Watercraft grease (Watercraft Grease - Neo Synthetic Oil) and that stuff is a real pain to get off if it gets on stuff you don't want it. No pictures, but the bushings are drilled at the fittings for the grease to reach the crush tubes and then the inner diameter was routed to allow even dispersal. This was a pain for each bushing. Overall, think it took me a couple months to do the suspension from getting the components off, cleaned, old bushings removed, zerks installed and new bushings pushed as well as having to buy a 20 ton press
While somewhat of a puzzle, pushing the bushings was actually fun (except for the trailing arms)
Actually meant the I arms (the ones that need to be sawed off with a hacksaw). The trailing arms were actually the only decent bushes and I've only got 65k miles
Now these were a different story. Knowing the fuel filter is a real pain to get to and wanting to replace the diff bushes, which is also a pain, I decided to drop the sub-frame. The driveshaft/exhaust/ppf were already removed when I pulled the engine which made it a little easier.
Now I could have simply either dropped the sub-frame with the differential and axles connected, or even pull the axles (which is rather simple) and drop the diff, but nooooo, I decided to pull the rear hubs
This required breaking the inner race and then getting the outer race separated. This is a real pain of a job, but allowed my to replace the bearings (which probably didn't need replacing), install longer wheel studs (which I probably don't need), and remove the brake dust shield (for marginally better brake cooling).
Pulling the hubs (which breaks the inner bearing race)
Hub off
Pulling the outer race. Lot of heat was required as well (did not need to grind anything though)
The differential bushes are oil filled and if you don't get the press on the outside edge of the bushes, it squirts out the inner part with the all the oil on the floor. They are also in there good so the come out with quite a bang. I followed these instructions:
Lubed real good because i'm not getting to that thing again anytime soon
I must say if I had to do it again, I would have taken the components (esp the hubs) to a machine shop. I doubt they'd charge much and would have saved me some hassle.
That's something I'd like to do soon. I think I'll take your advice and take it to a machine shop. Keep us posted on how it feels with the new bushes, mine are probably worn out and I don't know. lol
You can tell if they are worn by doing the wiggle test. Stick a screw driver in and wiggle them around. You can feel if they have any resistance or not. The only ones I had that were good were the trailing arms. Unfortunately, there's no replacements for the front control arm ball joints unless you replace the arms. Mine seemed marginal and I opted to re-grease and re-install. Not sure that was the right decision because it doesn't feel as tight as it should, esp with poly all around. I have some dialing in to do on the shocks so maybe that will help
I regreased and put new boots on the ball joints too. I just wish I took the extra step to get the arms painted when I replaced all the bushings like your doing. Oh well, it still drives amazing and like a new car. I put in the Mazda competition bushings from Mazda motorsports which is 40% stiffer then stock but still rubber. The only thing left for the job are the motor mounts but they cost 800 for both from Mazda motorsports. I would like to get the job finished soon because I feel a bit of drivetrain slack when shifting and you can see it in my autocross videos.
Sorry for the rant. Your work is similar to mine but a couple things different are that your doing the work. I didn't. And your putting a bit more detail to the job.
Keep up the good work and I will frequent your build for updates.
IMO, stock is nearly perfectly balanced for street and occasional autocross. I predominately track mine and wanted a little stiffer (and cheaper) suspension. I am finding though that aftermarket parts (in general) are not designed as a system and when you start replacing stock parts, it creates imbalances that need addressing. If I wasn't tracking, Mazda comps are definitely the way to go (and maybe even the way to go for tracking).
As far as engine mounts, you may want to try Banzai's tranny brace, esp before shelling out $800. I put one on before I made any suspension changes and it really helped the "drivetrain slack". Only issue I had with it was minor clearance issues with the SAB tube where it mounts to the tranny. You have to cut off a tab from that for the brace to fit. A rather easy mod.
Now onto the beast to change fuel filter. Not wanting to have to get at it again, I chose the relocate route.
dropping the subframe...
and the resulting void...
The offending culprit (never been changed!)...
I went with a Fuelab 6 micron 818 fuel filter which is rated for E85 as a potential future option and mounted to the subframe as high as possible (and w/o obstructing the diff fill hole). I hate AN hose and prefer to use metal tube as much as possible. Unfortunately, i'm not a professional fabricator so it took some stock to get something that is merely ok. In the process I replaced all the rubber fuel hose with new and double clamped where it connects to the tube. Thankfully no leaks which would have been a major cussing event because i didn't connect the fuel until after all the rear driveline/suspension/exhaust was reinstalled.
I bought the Norton because I was tired of exhaustive car builds and wanted to simplify my projects. Of course the simplification never happened (mainly due to two reasons below). Maybe someday I will get to it
and a previous build (with my FC in the background)
Unfortunately don't have pictures of my previous FB, GT6, or Trophy TR6
Tracking a stock FD, OEM brakes are fine, except for the pads. I tracked about 6 events on stock pads and rotors when they started to warp (actually think warped brakes are a misnomer in that the pads material transfers unevenly to the rotor creating the warped sensation). Anywho, I upgraded to Hawk DTC pads and Stoptech cryo'd slotted rotors. Can't really comment on the rotors as I don't have enough track time on them, but the DTC pads are great. Big improvement.
However, in dismantling the car, I noticed the front piston dust covers were melted. Hard to see here, but numerous holes were experienced.
When I installed the new pads, i also installed titanium backing plates and used ceramic paste. Not sure if that contributed, but i'm pretty sure the culprit was the higher temp pads. I did not rebuild the brakes when I put in the new pads, so since I needed to replace the dust covers, I thought I'd go ahead and do that.
Popped the pistons...
They look pretty good
So cleaned and reinstalled
Also when I first replaced the pads, I installed speed bleeders. Be careful torqueing these as the break rather early. I broke the one on the rear. To get it out, I had to drill a hole then hammer a hex bit in the hole.
Also picked up some ducted backing plates. They were originally tack welded so I had them strengthened. Thought the welds turned out nice (for a brake duct).
Instructions: not FD specific, but you get the idea...
Got them from a forum member. Probably not that hard to fab with some basic tools (may not look as nice). Think the hardest would be getting the dimple in the pipe. Next time I have the brakes off, will pull them off and draw up a template.
06-25-15, 09:52 PM
