5.0 RX7 1st gen
04-11-12, 06:11 PM
#4
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I have A 85 rx7 with a 5.0 t-5 and it's a blast to play with !!! I need help with speedometer , how do i have to do to get it working ??
Any help would be greatly apperciated !!!!!
Thanks
Ron g.
Richmond, Va
Any help would be greatly apperciated !!!!!
Thanks
Ron g.
Richmond, Va
04-12-12, 04:11 AM
#6
That is a very healthy horsepower for driving on the street - I have never owned a car with quite that kind of grunt. I was just going for a nice daily driver, got 250 hp to the wheels. But it was ornery when cold, and really not that pleasant to drive. After a couple of years setting off car alarms everywhere I went, I replaced the mean sounding cam with a stock Ford HO grind, slightly less power but much nicer to drive. I had to make a hood cutout, but much smaller than yours, used a piece from a damaged 280Z hood to cover it.
I don't know what you are doing for brakes, but I recommend the upgrade to the 2nd gen turbo/convertible brakes if you have not done it. This makes a very impressive improvement in stopping power. I first did it in 2001, engineered it myself, now kits are available. Details are shown on my Cardomain page.
My local speedometer shop made me a little adapter gearbox and got the speedo calibration right on the money. You can order it here: http://grannys.tripod.com/rx7.html
I don't know what you are doing for brakes, but I recommend the upgrade to the 2nd gen turbo/convertible brakes if you have not done it. This makes a very impressive improvement in stopping power. I first did it in 2001, engineered it myself, now kits are available. Details are shown on my Cardomain page.
My local speedometer shop made me a little adapter gearbox and got the speedo calibration right on the money. You can order it here: http://grannys.tripod.com/rx7.html
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04-14-12, 12:58 AM
#10
[QUOTE=aussiesmg;11054944]Ah ha, but could you jump in it and drive 2500 miles without sweating on reliability?
I can.
I am also within 20 lbs of stock 84 GSL weight, I am guessing you are not.
BTW my new tires will assist my autocross efforts
hahaha u call a ford reliable!!! i dont have a rx7 for reliability LOL i beat the crap out of that car all the time so when something breaks it was expected. my V8 DD is the real reliable car but its a chevy !!!!!!! im just messing with u. i barely drive my turbo Rx7 it has a welded diff and is to loud to be driving on base (im in the Army)
I can.
I am also within 20 lbs of stock 84 GSL weight, I am guessing you are not.
BTW my new tires will assist my autocross efforts
hahaha u call a ford reliable!!! i dont have a rx7 for reliability LOL i beat the crap out of that car all the time so when something breaks it was expected. my V8 DD is the real reliable car but its a chevy !!!!!!! im just messing with u. i barely drive my turbo Rx7 it has a welded diff and is to loud to be driving on base (im in the Army)
Hood scoop
05-13-12, 08:50 PM
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That's perfect man, I just picked up a super clean bodied 85 GSL with no motor for 150 bucks. I plan on doing a carbureted 302(cheaper, easier for me to mess with tuning wise) I am no stranger to engine swaps, or fabricating and welding. But I've never done arotary to v8 swap obviously or I wouldn't be looking for advice/input. How hard was the swap and did you use the granny kit? How's the quality of their stuff if so? Thanks in advance
08-27-12, 08:42 PM
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I have a '91 with a 5.0, lots of mods but the conversion kit came from Granny's Speedshop and I haven't had any trouble with their products so far.
10-31-12, 10:07 PM
#19
Yep early Fox hood scoop, matches the FB hood lines exactly.
I am fuel injected and the car is very nice on the road, it is very streetable on the road. With the reflashed OEM computer dynoed to match the mods.
Working on the interior now.
I am fuel injected and the car is very nice on the road, it is very streetable on the road. With the reflashed OEM computer dynoed to match the mods.
Working on the interior now.
01-09-13, 06:56 AM
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I have a buddy who used to have an 85 with a 5.0, stock mountaineer motor with a carb swap and put down just a touch over 200. That may not seem like much, but he could keep up with my brothers eclipse (300-350hp conservative estimate). The best time his car ran in the quarter was a high 12. 300 horse in that thing would be a good street monster, nice work.
01-09-13, 10:33 PM
#22
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I spent quite a little bit building a pretty nice 302 with long rods and X-303 cam and edelbrock rpm heads and dual plane intake and got about 300 even at the wheels. I'm pretty happy but I respect a guy that gets more!
By the way, watch your oil pressure in the turns. We went through 4 engines before we gave up and put a front sump on it because we kept loosing pressure in the turns and toasting the bearings. This is with a rear sump canton road race pan and also a accusump. With a canton front sump and no accusump it never looses oil pressure but it was so much work to make that fit. Steering link rod and cross member both had to be modified extensively.
By the way, watch your oil pressure in the turns. We went through 4 engines before we gave up and put a front sump on it because we kept loosing pressure in the turns and toasting the bearings. This is with a rear sump canton road race pan and also a accusump. With a canton front sump and no accusump it never looses oil pressure but it was so much work to make that fit. Steering link rod and cross member both had to be modified extensively.
07-09-13, 09:32 PM
#23
I spent quite a little bit building a pretty nice 302 with long rods and X-303 cam and edelbrock rpm heads and dual plane intake and got about 300 even at the wheels. I'm pretty happy but I respect a guy that gets more!
By the way, watch your oil pressure in the turns. We went through 4 engines before we gave up and put a front sump on it because we kept loosing pressure in the turns and toasting the bearings. This is with a rear sump canton road race pan and also a accusump. With a canton front sump and no accusump it never looses oil pressure but it was so much work to make that fit. Steering link rod and cross member both had to be modified extensively.
By the way, watch your oil pressure in the turns. We went through 4 engines before we gave up and put a front sump on it because we kept loosing pressure in the turns and toasting the bearings. This is with a rear sump canton road race pan and also a accusump. With a canton front sump and no accusump it never looses oil pressure but it was so much work to make that fit. Steering link rod and cross member both had to be modified extensively.
We just build the rear to be an equal length 4 link with panhard, this was a significant change to the shell but IMO it has been very worthwhile.
The gauges were also changed out for a set of Autometers
