Honest opinion on why I chose the V8 after being a long time rotary guy.
12-08-15, 06:38 PM
#127
Yea.. I think my exhaust would be fine, but I don't want to have to make a new trans crossmember, get the driveshaft modded, hack up the trans tunnel and modify the shifter to get it in. Paying $1k more for the drop in aftermarket trans seems almost worth it at that point. It comes with the new transmission yoke too, so I just have to get the driveshaft rebalanced and go.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 12-08-15 at 06:40 PM.
12-31-15, 08:23 AM
#130
I love V8s and Rotaries both, but I don't think this was a fair comparison at all. Comparing an engine swap versus a turbo upgrade? I think it would have been a much better comparison if it was swap versus swap, V8 versus 20B, or even 2JZ or something. Don't get me wrong, I have no hate for V8 swapped Rx7s.
12-31-15, 11:37 AM
#131
I love V8s and Rotaries both, but I don't think this was a fair comparison at all. Comparing an engine swap versus a turbo upgrade? I think it would have been a much better comparison if it was swap versus swap, V8 versus 20B, or even 2JZ or something. Don't get me wrong, I have no hate for V8 swapped Rx7s.
From a weight perspective, both of those are heavier than an aluminium block LS and put even MORE weight further over the front wheels.
12-31-15, 12:34 PM
#132
I think it would have been a much better comparison if it was swap versus swap, V8 versus 20B, or even 2JZ or something.
My opinion on this was that a stock 13B-REW with sequential twins and bolt ons VS the ported single turbo rotary VS the V8 would have been a cool test.
Yes, I understand the V8 swap and single turbo rotary would make more power than the sequential twins.
The typical single turbo "upgrades" under 500rwhp are a downgrade for a street FD in my opinion (I understand why it would be a benefit on the track).
Way too much response and torque lost under 3,000rpm compared to sequential twins to warrant the increase in peak power.
Crossing an intersection on the street in a pump gas GT35R is like buuuuuuuu, waaah. You better have a decent gap in traffic. In a stock sequential FD or even better one with bolt ons you don't need as much gap.
That response is part of the balance that defines an FD for me, but then I came from a FC RX-7 which is single turbo and lacking that response in its initial design.
Sequential twins have a unique to FD power band that would definitely help the commentator "get" the car in my opinion.
Look at what RE Amemiya has accomplished with the Touge Monster FD on sequential twins. Even beating other tuners single turbo time attack FDs on the short Tsukuba circuit in a 5 lap race as well as dominating the Touge challenge.
Would FD on sequential twins change the commentators view on rotary vs V8 swap?
Probably not, but he would have gotten a better feel of what the Mazda FD RX-7 was all about and how badly us tuners mangle the feel of the car for a little more power.
Well, if anything that makes the V8 swap look even better as it "preserves" more of the original character of the car...
Oh god, what have I said now! LOL
My opinion on this was that a stock 13B-REW with sequential twins and bolt ons VS the ported single turbo rotary VS the V8 would have been a cool test.
Yes, I understand the V8 swap and single turbo rotary would make more power than the sequential twins.
The typical single turbo "upgrades" under 500rwhp are a downgrade for a street FD in my opinion (I understand why it would be a benefit on the track).
Way too much response and torque lost under 3,000rpm compared to sequential twins to warrant the increase in peak power.
Crossing an intersection on the street in a pump gas GT35R is like buuuuuuuu, waaah. You better have a decent gap in traffic. In a stock sequential FD or even better one with bolt ons you don't need as much gap.
That response is part of the balance that defines an FD for me, but then I came from a FC RX-7 which is single turbo and lacking that response in its initial design.
Sequential twins have a unique to FD power band that would definitely help the commentator "get" the car in my opinion.
Look at what RE Amemiya has accomplished with the Touge Monster FD on sequential twins. Even beating other tuners single turbo time attack FDs on the short Tsukuba circuit in a 5 lap race as well as dominating the Touge challenge.
Would FD on sequential twins change the commentators view on rotary vs V8 swap?
Probably not, but he would have gotten a better feel of what the Mazda FD RX-7 was all about and how badly us tuners mangle the feel of the car for a little more power.
Well, if anything that makes the V8 swap look even better as it "preserves" more of the original character of the car...
Oh god, what have I said now! LOL
12-31-15, 01:19 PM
#133
Good point Blue TII, he should have set up a baseline with the original Stock sequential set-up, the way the car was designed to be, and then compared the different configurations. Stock sequential twins is a totally different feel from a single turbo, definitely.
Also, how high was this guy revving anyways? I've noticed over the years that a lot of people are afraid to rev my car over 6k, for good reason, they're not used to the rotary power-band. Some people don't like having to work for that power anyways, to each their own.
I felt as if it was just a very odd comparison, a baseline would have helped. Both were awesome cars by the way.
Also, how high was this guy revving anyways? I've noticed over the years that a lot of people are afraid to rev my car over 6k, for good reason, they're not used to the rotary power-band. Some people don't like having to work for that power anyways, to each their own.
I felt as if it was just a very odd comparison, a baseline would have helped. Both were awesome cars by the way.
12-31-15, 04:21 PM
#134
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I felt farah was dead on with his comparison, even if a bit biased towards v8s. Most of what he said is why those, including myself prefer a v8 in this chassis. Also imho a v8 sounds so much better than a hi winding rotary.
02-12-16, 05:45 PM
#135
I've owned both and LS3 FD and 2 single turbo FD's. I like them both and for different reasons.
They are both great cars and both have drawbacks. It takes a lot of money to refine a swap to make it drive and run and handle. There are plenty of hack job swaps because most are garage builds with varying levels of talent as a mechanic. But most of all the budget isnt there to make as nice as it should be...
There is no doubt that a rotary is as fragile as spring ice. If you disagree go lie to yourself somewhere else. Everyone else knows better.
My biggest gripe with the swap is the transmission. The FD trans is way nicer to shift than a T-56. You may be able to go with a T-56 magnum for better results. I never tried one but would def go that route next time. Ground clearance with the long tube headers can be an issue for low cars.
Biggest plus of the swap is of course the Motor. Not only the power and torque but the low end and linear power makes it more fun and easier to drive at the limit. I've raced both. I've driven pretty much everything from $100k on down and the LS3 motor and LS7 motors are about the best motors I've ever had the pleasure of driving or owning. I also currently own 510hp SC Range Rover Sport and Turbo ///M BMW's.
A swap may be simple in theory but if you want something truly as nice as an OEM would produce you need to spend plenty. They also suffer from oil starvation on track with R compounds. You can mitigate this but it becomes an issue with room under the hood for dry sumps or accusumps.
The swap doesn't make the car a Vette. It's more like a Shelby Daytona.
I like both but wouldn't hesitate to swap another if money to do it to the nines was available. A half assed swap is no better than a half assed rotary build.
Anyone asking how cheap you can do a swap probably won't like the result. My opinion is it takes $25-$30k min to do a nice swap. $35-$40k would be best. Most rollers need a lot more than just a drivetrain to make them right and worthy of the expense of a swap.
They are both great cars and both have drawbacks. It takes a lot of money to refine a swap to make it drive and run and handle. There are plenty of hack job swaps because most are garage builds with varying levels of talent as a mechanic. But most of all the budget isnt there to make as nice as it should be...
There is no doubt that a rotary is as fragile as spring ice. If you disagree go lie to yourself somewhere else. Everyone else knows better.
My biggest gripe with the swap is the transmission. The FD trans is way nicer to shift than a T-56. You may be able to go with a T-56 magnum for better results. I never tried one but would def go that route next time. Ground clearance with the long tube headers can be an issue for low cars.
Biggest plus of the swap is of course the Motor. Not only the power and torque but the low end and linear power makes it more fun and easier to drive at the limit. I've raced both. I've driven pretty much everything from $100k on down and the LS3 motor and LS7 motors are about the best motors I've ever had the pleasure of driving or owning. I also currently own 510hp SC Range Rover Sport and Turbo ///M BMW's.
A swap may be simple in theory but if you want something truly as nice as an OEM would produce you need to spend plenty. They also suffer from oil starvation on track with R compounds. You can mitigate this but it becomes an issue with room under the hood for dry sumps or accusumps.
The swap doesn't make the car a Vette. It's more like a Shelby Daytona.
I like both but wouldn't hesitate to swap another if money to do it to the nines was available. A half assed swap is no better than a half assed rotary build.
Anyone asking how cheap you can do a swap probably won't like the result. My opinion is it takes $25-$30k min to do a nice swap. $35-$40k would be best. Most rollers need a lot more than just a drivetrain to make them right and worthy of the expense of a swap.
02-12-16, 09:37 PM
#136
Spending in the low $30k range on a well sorted FD swap will put you money ahead vs building one, I agree. Especially if you have friends with Porsches, modded Vettes, Vipers, etc. and want to embarrass them, an FD with 450+ HP is the way to do it and still look good.
If you want to build an extremely capable car that is not world class, but bad ***, then build an FC. It will cost you half of what you put into the FD to do the swap at a similar caliber. But the chassis that is worth $0 basically, so you have to consider that if you think you may sell it later. The FD is better car for sure, but the bang for the buck from an FC is off the charts.
I sort of agree on the trans feel. It's not the best, but if the trans is in good working order you'll never be missing gears either. I don't mind the feel personally. The newer Magnum T56s do feel better, and they have the best gearing spread for the car.
95% of oiling issues in LS engines can be solved by running an upgraded baffle in the stock oil pan, and running a quart of extra oil. You also need to maintain the oil level. Check it after every other track session, and you will likely never have a problem. I have 5000 track miles on my LS engine and have never had a low oil pressure blip or had my accusump discharge on track. I have an upgraded oil pan baffle from Improved Racing, and throughly believe in their products after the results I've had. They also offer a windage tray for LS engines that will help keep more oil in the pan.
If you want to build an extremely capable car that is not world class, but bad ***, then build an FC. It will cost you half of what you put into the FD to do the swap at a similar caliber. But the chassis that is worth $0 basically, so you have to consider that if you think you may sell it later. The FD is better car for sure, but the bang for the buck from an FC is off the charts.
I sort of agree on the trans feel. It's not the best, but if the trans is in good working order you'll never be missing gears either. I don't mind the feel personally. The newer Magnum T56s do feel better, and they have the best gearing spread for the car.
95% of oiling issues in LS engines can be solved by running an upgraded baffle in the stock oil pan, and running a quart of extra oil. You also need to maintain the oil level. Check it after every other track session, and you will likely never have a problem. I have 5000 track miles on my LS engine and have never had a low oil pressure blip or had my accusump discharge on track. I have an upgraded oil pan baffle from Improved Racing, and throughly believe in their products after the results I've had. They also offer a windage tray for LS engines that will help keep more oil in the pan.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 02-12-16 at 10:08 PM.
02-18-16, 07:21 PM
#137
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Back then,
If you told me to swap a V8 in my RX-7, I would tell you to **** off. And when I saw people's V8 swaps, I just shook my head. A RX-7 needs a rotary!
Now,
Advancement in the LS series V8s now, and it deserved another look.
We're no longer talking about cast iron blocks with a huge carbs sticking out of the hood or stupid hood cowls. We're talking about all aluminum engine with a 5.7L, 6.2L, or 7.0L and swap kits that make it almost painless. No more hood cowls and holes in the hood where the air cleaner sticks out.
About me..
I love rotaries.
I've always loved rotaries.
I knew more about rotaries than regular piston engines when I first got into cars.
Being able to just rev the car so high and have that turbo kick in, it was fun...
All the rotary people I met through years were extremely cool and helpful. It's like we were a different breed and I'm pretty sure most of you guys can relate.
When I had my FC RX7, it was at 130k and it had low compression. I rebuilt engine with pretty much all new OEM parts except rotor housings and rotors. From OEM apex seals, springs, oil control rings, side seals, bearings, oil pump, chain, gasket set, and having the housings lapped. Then adding a upgraded turbo, wastegate, manifold, lines, etc... after it was all that, It was probably 5-6k and that didn't include the standalone and intercooler it needed. So I probably would have spent around 8-9k after all that. If I dyno'd it, it probably would have put out 300-350hp. I sold the car before I had a chance to really finish it.
I had the itch a while back and I wanted to get into it again.
I looked around and found a clean FC that sat for a few years.
I bought the car and sure enough, it had a blown coolant jacket wall and the housing needed to be replaced, also needed a rotor housing.
I searched around for a month, looking for parts and what mods I was going to do to the engine and priced out the parts for the rebuild. It was about 1500 in seals and it was pretty much deja vu. It was going to be the same story all over. Probably another 7K+. I asked myself if I really wanted into invest into another FC rotary. So I said I would invest that kind of money into at least a FD and here was my deciding factors.
Cons:
3.5k engine rebuild (could be cheaper but I figured replace as much as possible)
2.5k turbo/manifold/lines
2k Standalone
1k Racing Beat Exhaust system.
Turbo Lag -
No emissions (stinky exhaust),
Premix every time I filled up
Poor gas mileage
Finding parts can be a chore and when you do, it's pretty damn expensive.
Pro:
High Revving Rotary Engine with Turbo.
Big power out of small engine.
I don't have to upgrade pistons, rods, valves, valve spring, camshaft and retainers.
Being around other cool rotary owners.
I guess that's it unless I'm missing something.
V8 Cons:
2-4k LS3 Engine or 8K for EROD Smog legal LS3
1-1.5k T56 Transmission 3.5k for T56 Magnum
1.2k for Factory ECM or 2K for Holley EFI
4-6k Swap Related Parts (headers, radiator, fuel pump, clutch master, hoses, lines)
2-3k Rear End 8.8
Handling of the car will be changed due to engine being heavier and rack placement. They make bump steer kits but It probably wont fix it completely (especially if you have a lowered car)
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, valves, etc.
V8 Pros:
350-400 easy horsepower
TORQUE!
Better Fuel Mileage
Can be made SMOG LEGAL with the EROD kit
6 Speed
Buying parts is super easy. SUMMIT and JEGS has so many parts for LS engines. Buying replacement parts is easy also. Going to autozone, dealership, etc..
While the high upfront cost of the V8 swap a lot, but if I planned to keep the car for a long time, another rotary engine rebuild will offset that cost by a lot
I think the biggest pros are
- CARB legal and never having to worry about CA STATE REF.
- Gas mileage
- Torque
- More reliable than rotary (Most rotary owner knows this but won't admit, the more mods you do to the rotary, it will become less reliable ) This happens with most engines.
If I had a choice between a stock V8 and make 350-425 hp or a modded rotary for the same numbers, I would chose the V8.
If you told me to swap a V8 in my RX-7, I would tell you to **** off. And when I saw people's V8 swaps, I just shook my head. A RX-7 needs a rotary!
Now,
Advancement in the LS series V8s now, and it deserved another look.
We're no longer talking about cast iron blocks with a huge carbs sticking out of the hood or stupid hood cowls. We're talking about all aluminum engine with a 5.7L, 6.2L, or 7.0L and swap kits that make it almost painless. No more hood cowls and holes in the hood where the air cleaner sticks out.
About me..
I love rotaries.
I've always loved rotaries.
I knew more about rotaries than regular piston engines when I first got into cars.
Being able to just rev the car so high and have that turbo kick in, it was fun...
All the rotary people I met through years were extremely cool and helpful. It's like we were a different breed and I'm pretty sure most of you guys can relate.
When I had my FC RX7, it was at 130k and it had low compression. I rebuilt engine with pretty much all new OEM parts except rotor housings and rotors. From OEM apex seals, springs, oil control rings, side seals, bearings, oil pump, chain, gasket set, and having the housings lapped. Then adding a upgraded turbo, wastegate, manifold, lines, etc... after it was all that, It was probably 5-6k and that didn't include the standalone and intercooler it needed. So I probably would have spent around 8-9k after all that. If I dyno'd it, it probably would have put out 300-350hp. I sold the car before I had a chance to really finish it.
I had the itch a while back and I wanted to get into it again.
I looked around and found a clean FC that sat for a few years.
I bought the car and sure enough, it had a blown coolant jacket wall and the housing needed to be replaced, also needed a rotor housing.
I searched around for a month, looking for parts and what mods I was going to do to the engine and priced out the parts for the rebuild. It was about 1500 in seals and it was pretty much deja vu. It was going to be the same story all over. Probably another 7K+. I asked myself if I really wanted into invest into another FC rotary. So I said I would invest that kind of money into at least a FD and here was my deciding factors.
Cons:
3.5k engine rebuild (could be cheaper but I figured replace as much as possible)
2.5k turbo/manifold/lines
2k Standalone
1k Racing Beat Exhaust system.
Turbo Lag -
No emissions (stinky exhaust),
Premix every time I filled up
Poor gas mileage
Finding parts can be a chore and when you do, it's pretty damn expensive.
Pro:
High Revving Rotary Engine with Turbo.
Big power out of small engine.
I don't have to upgrade pistons, rods, valves, valve spring, camshaft and retainers.
Being around other cool rotary owners.
I guess that's it unless I'm missing something.
V8 Cons:
2-4k LS3 Engine or 8K for EROD Smog legal LS3
1-1.5k T56 Transmission 3.5k for T56 Magnum
1.2k for Factory ECM or 2K for Holley EFI
4-6k Swap Related Parts (headers, radiator, fuel pump, clutch master, hoses, lines)
2-3k Rear End 8.8
Handling of the car will be changed due to engine being heavier and rack placement. They make bump steer kits but It probably wont fix it completely (especially if you have a lowered car)
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, valves, etc.
V8 Pros:
350-400 easy horsepower
TORQUE!
Better Fuel Mileage
Can be made SMOG LEGAL with the EROD kit
6 Speed
Buying parts is super easy. SUMMIT and JEGS has so many parts for LS engines. Buying replacement parts is easy also. Going to autozone, dealership, etc..
While the high upfront cost of the V8 swap a lot, but if I planned to keep the car for a long time, another rotary engine rebuild will offset that cost by a lot
I think the biggest pros are
- CARB legal and never having to worry about CA STATE REF.
- Gas mileage
- Torque
- More reliable than rotary (Most rotary owner knows this but won't admit, the more mods you do to the rotary, it will become less reliable ) This happens with most engines.
If I had a choice between a stock V8 and make 350-425 hp or a modded rotary for the same numbers, I would chose the V8.
02-23-16, 01:24 AM
#138
Lots of great points here.
Here are a few of my ramblings...
I don't regret my swap a bit. I agree with Zoom that it takes some cash to make a swapped car capable. A 400whp LS swap and drivetrain wasn't really an option for me. Personally, I think the rotary is a valid enough option today to keep it going as a relatively reliably street car with 400whp. My problem was that I wanted 500whp+, and doing that with a 13B just doesn't yield reliable results. So how do you make it more reliable, add displacement. My swap came in at about $25k, and it's really just a fun street car. However, $14k of that was directly from all of the rotary goodies that I sold; and I had quire a few goodies. It came up to about $9k out of pocket which wasn't bad at all. Hell, it was about $9k to go single turbo the first time, so I didn't really think it was a bad deal. Considering my car is about 550whp with a pretty much bulletproof drivetrain, I am pleased.
An often overlooked aspect of the swap is that it takes a lot of fabrication skills and an overall professional requirement of the work done to make it right. Though there are plenty of ready-to-order sub-frames and kits out there, and your choice of pre-fabbed headers there is also quite a bit left to the owner to take care of. That just makes or breaks a swap. In the rotary world, there is some of this, but the snap together parts definitely makes things easier. The V8 Rx7 vendors are slowly getting there, but it's an even smaller market so it leaves the swapper to get it done. I think many times swappers overlook this aspect, and we end up with cut corners in pinnacle areas like wiring.
One of my biggest issue with rotaries is the lack of support. Not from the community, Rx7club is a great community. I mean, the fact that the number of companies that actually support the rotary. I'm just a shade tree guy that muddles his way through what I think is the right thing to do. I'm also active duty military, so often my time and resources are limited with specialties like the engine build or tuning. It's like an air cooled VW engine. There are still a select community of dudes talking about 160whp tuned out engines and the hand full of shops that are experts in that build. So you are an enthusiast, what do you do? You send your engine to guy 9 states over to get that sucker rebuilt, get it back and bolt it in. But like all small communities, when you have a limited number of supporting companies and shop specialists, your options as an enthusiast are reduced. Shipping engines, and driving hours to the "yoda" tuner becomes the norm. Diagnosing unusual issues lies solely on yourself and handful of forum posters. The LSx engine as a whole, has 10x the support behind it. It's America's engine, and the number of builders, experts, tuners, and even helpful enthusiasts is exponentially more.
So why didn't I buy a Vette? Well, sometimes I wish I did. I would have been easier, but probably not cheaper. At the end of the day I still love my Rx7. The lines are timeless, the chassis is lighter, and the value for what I have is more appealing than a Vette. My $9k investment, swap time, and headaches have been worth it. My car is an absolute animal and will be for many years to come. It's funny when I get a few enthusiasts near my car. Many think it's an LS1 and wonder how I could swap out the unique rotary. Those opinions are put to bed pretty quickly with a little explanation of what my setup actually entails.
Here are a few of my ramblings...
I don't regret my swap a bit. I agree with Zoom that it takes some cash to make a swapped car capable. A 400whp LS swap and drivetrain wasn't really an option for me. Personally, I think the rotary is a valid enough option today to keep it going as a relatively reliably street car with 400whp. My problem was that I wanted 500whp+, and doing that with a 13B just doesn't yield reliable results. So how do you make it more reliable, add displacement. My swap came in at about $25k, and it's really just a fun street car. However, $14k of that was directly from all of the rotary goodies that I sold; and I had quire a few goodies. It came up to about $9k out of pocket which wasn't bad at all. Hell, it was about $9k to go single turbo the first time, so I didn't really think it was a bad deal. Considering my car is about 550whp with a pretty much bulletproof drivetrain, I am pleased.
An often overlooked aspect of the swap is that it takes a lot of fabrication skills and an overall professional requirement of the work done to make it right. Though there are plenty of ready-to-order sub-frames and kits out there, and your choice of pre-fabbed headers there is also quite a bit left to the owner to take care of. That just makes or breaks a swap. In the rotary world, there is some of this, but the snap together parts definitely makes things easier. The V8 Rx7 vendors are slowly getting there, but it's an even smaller market so it leaves the swapper to get it done. I think many times swappers overlook this aspect, and we end up with cut corners in pinnacle areas like wiring.
One of my biggest issue with rotaries is the lack of support. Not from the community, Rx7club is a great community. I mean, the fact that the number of companies that actually support the rotary. I'm just a shade tree guy that muddles his way through what I think is the right thing to do. I'm also active duty military, so often my time and resources are limited with specialties like the engine build or tuning. It's like an air cooled VW engine. There are still a select community of dudes talking about 160whp tuned out engines and the hand full of shops that are experts in that build. So you are an enthusiast, what do you do? You send your engine to guy 9 states over to get that sucker rebuilt, get it back and bolt it in. But like all small communities, when you have a limited number of supporting companies and shop specialists, your options as an enthusiast are reduced. Shipping engines, and driving hours to the "yoda" tuner becomes the norm. Diagnosing unusual issues lies solely on yourself and handful of forum posters. The LSx engine as a whole, has 10x the support behind it. It's America's engine, and the number of builders, experts, tuners, and even helpful enthusiasts is exponentially more.
So why didn't I buy a Vette? Well, sometimes I wish I did. I would have been easier, but probably not cheaper. At the end of the day I still love my Rx7. The lines are timeless, the chassis is lighter, and the value for what I have is more appealing than a Vette. My $9k investment, swap time, and headaches have been worth it. My car is an absolute animal and will be for many years to come. It's funny when I get a few enthusiasts near my car. Many think it's an LS1 and wonder how I could swap out the unique rotary. Those opinions are put to bed pretty quickly with a little explanation of what my setup actually entails.
03-24-16, 09:22 PM
#139
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I recently finished a long home remodel. During that time (3 years) the FD was parked (couldn't be moved).
I live in an area where there are (relatively) a lot of FDs (silicon valley) and have had 2 good shops nearby that worked on rx7s.
Wanting someone to flush old gas and change fluids + a tuneup and what was I told by both shops? We don't work on RX7s any more, can't get parts.
With a EROD LS3 I can get the engine serviced in thousands of shops nationwide and parts are not a problem. Do I try to become my own 7 specialist, sell it, or install a LS3? hmmm
I live in an area where there are (relatively) a lot of FDs (silicon valley) and have had 2 good shops nearby that worked on rx7s.
Wanting someone to flush old gas and change fluids + a tuneup and what was I told by both shops? We don't work on RX7s any more, can't get parts.
With a EROD LS3 I can get the engine serviced in thousands of shops nationwide and parts are not a problem. Do I try to become my own 7 specialist, sell it, or install a LS3? hmmm
03-24-16, 10:52 PM
#140
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I recently finished a long home remodel. During that time (3 years) the FD was parked (couldn't be moved).
I live in an area where there are (relatively) a lot of FDs (silicon valley) and have had 2 good shops nearby that worked on rx7s.
Wanting someone to flush old gas and change fluids + a tuneup and what was I told by both shops? We don't work on RX7s any more, can't get parts.
With a EROD LS3 I can get the engine serviced in thousands of shops nationwide and parts are not a problem. Do I try to become my own 7 specialist, sell it, or install a LS3? hmmm
I live in an area where there are (relatively) a lot of FDs (silicon valley) and have had 2 good shops nearby that worked on rx7s.
Wanting someone to flush old gas and change fluids + a tuneup and what was I told by both shops? We don't work on RX7s any more, can't get parts.
With a EROD LS3 I can get the engine serviced in thousands of shops nationwide and parts are not a problem. Do I try to become my own 7 specialist, sell it, or install a LS3? hmmm
03-25-16, 10:00 AM
#141
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My understanding is that most critical parts are no longer available through normal channels. Now accepting a RX7 for service has a risk of needing parts that can take weeks to get. When that happens the customer is unhappy and space needed to generate income is taken by a vehicle waiting for parts.
03-25-16, 02:57 PM
#142
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
My understanding is that most critical parts are no longer available through normal channels. Now accepting a RX7 for service has a risk of needing parts that can take weeks to get. When that happens the customer is unhappy and space needed to generate income is taken by a vehicle waiting for parts.
03-25-16, 04:06 PM
#143
An LS swap doesn't change the fact that most of the car is still an RX-7 and will continue to need RX-7 parts.
If you don't work on your own car then I suggest buying something newer. Old cars need plenty of wrenching regardless of the platform or drivetrain.
Some parts are not available thru Mazda anymore but the aftermarket provides many parts and someone is always parting a car out in the for sale section.
But there isn't money in the RX-7 market for most shops to make it their main stay business. It's a niche market for sure.
If you don't work on your own car then I suggest buying something newer. Old cars need plenty of wrenching regardless of the platform or drivetrain.
Some parts are not available thru Mazda anymore but the aftermarket provides many parts and someone is always parting a car out in the for sale section.
But there isn't money in the RX-7 market for most shops to make it their main stay business. It's a niche market for sure.
03-26-16, 09:40 AM
#145
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03-24-17, 09:34 AM
#146
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corvette vs rx-7
I had to chime in. I have been a mechanic for 30 plus years and started in the american car market, and moved to the European market. American cars are junk besides the engines and transmissions. the build quality is crap the fit and finish is garbage vettes included, I have owned and repaired all versions as well. Last year I purchased a fc vert specifically to do a ls swap. This is my first experience with a Mazda and the Mazda build quality is amazing, on par with Mercedes. I have to say the only thing I did not care for was the finickiness of the rotary engine. So to me a LS powered fc is a dream compared to a rattle box like a vet or the bird I bought to pull the only good part from.
03-28-17, 11:19 PM
#149
Whatever you gotta tell yourself to get by, chief.
https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-fo...-693971/page8/
https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-fo...-693971/page8/
