OMP Removal! Drain the oil?
#1
OMP Removal! Drain the oil?
Hey guys,
Just a quick dumb question for anyone that might know. I'm getting ready to go make a blockoff plate for my OMP and then I can start running premix, but I just wanted to know if I'll need to drain the oil when I take off the OMP?
I'm pretty sure that I will but just wanted to be sure in case I don't, could save myself a little time.
Thanks in advance.
BTW: I am considering making lots of these blockoff plates if anyone might be interested in purchasing them.... let me know...
Just a quick dumb question for anyone that might know. I'm getting ready to go make a blockoff plate for my OMP and then I can start running premix, but I just wanted to know if I'll need to drain the oil when I take off the OMP?
I'm pretty sure that I will but just wanted to be sure in case I don't, could save myself a little time.
Thanks in advance.
BTW: I am considering making lots of these blockoff plates if anyone might be interested in purchasing them.... let me know...
#4
Kewl! That should make the job a little quicker! I'm going to hopefully get her fixed this weekend. I'm not even sure that my OMP was functioning and if it wasn't it worries me for how long. But hopefully once the MMO starts flowing it will smooth her out and turn back the clock a little...
#6
I will be taking off my omp this weekend and was wondering the same thing!
If you are making plates i might be interested, how much you asking for one?
Edit: are you supposed to be able to see oil in the OPM lines? looks like they are see-through, but i have never seen any oil in them!
If you are making plates i might be interested, how much you asking for one?
Edit: are you supposed to be able to see oil in the OPM lines? looks like they are see-through, but i have never seen any oil in them!
#7
I will be taking off my omp this weekend and was wondering the same thing!
If you are making plates i might be interested, how much you asking for one?
Edit: are you supposed to be able to see oil in the OPM lines?
Yes.
looks like they are see-through, but i have never seen any oil in them!
They are see through. No oil in them means you OMP isn't pumping or the linkage for the OMP isn't hooked up
If you are making plates i might be interested, how much you asking for one?
Edit: are you supposed to be able to see oil in the OPM lines?
Yes.
looks like they are see-through, but i have never seen any oil in them!
They are see through. No oil in them means you OMP isn't pumping or the linkage for the OMP isn't hooked up
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#8
Is it therefore safe to say that if you can see engine oil in the lines, that the OMP is good and is pumping as designed?
I've often wondered if the oil in those lines is actually going anywhere, and knowing that it drains back through the lines when the pump goes out would be nice to know. TIA,
I've often wondered if the oil in those lines is actually going anywhere, and knowing that it drains back through the lines when the pump goes out would be nice to know. TIA,
#9
I see oil and a few air gaps in my lines after it's been sitting awhile. It doesn't drain back. I haven't measured the output but when looking down the carb I can see the oil drip out of the little tubes. I know it's not that easy for you 13b guys.
#10
well my since my OMP dosent work, or leak, is there any reason for me to take it off? (other than looks)
Also, how bad is it to run without an OMP or premix? I am not sure how long my OMP has been out for. Im probably screwed, i dont really remember ever seeing anything in those lines
Also, how bad is it to run without an OMP or premix? I am not sure how long my OMP has been out for. Im probably screwed, i dont really remember ever seeing anything in those lines
Last edited by Lotus00; 02-12-04 at 06:37 PM.
#11
Re: OMP Removal! Drain the oil?
Originally posted by Glazedham42
BTW: I am considering making lots of these blockoff plates if anyone might be interested in purchasing them.... let me know...
BTW: I am considering making lots of these blockoff plates if anyone might be interested in purchasing them.... let me know...
Nelson
#13
The OMP is mounted on the front of the front cover, below and behind the water pump, and looks like this (when it's clean!):
You'll notice that there is a lever arm on the OMP that attaches to your throttle shaft by a long rod. This rod moves when you apply throttle so that as you request more fuel, you also request more oil to help lubricate the internal engine seals. The Apex seals and corner seals are difficult to get oil to for lubrication, so Mazda decided to pump oil (very small quantites) into the intake to help seal and lubricate these corners. Without it, the engine would have metal on metal contact, and wouldn't be able to maintain reliability for long.
The 12A cars have 2 clear OMP lines that go from the pump to the car, whereas the 13B cars have 4 lines, 2 to the intake plenums for the center intake, and 2 directly on the top of the engine block which have an opening right on top of the apex seals - this was designed to help keep those tip seals well lubricated (per the 84SE FSM). HTH,
You'll notice that there is a lever arm on the OMP that attaches to your throttle shaft by a long rod. This rod moves when you apply throttle so that as you request more fuel, you also request more oil to help lubricate the internal engine seals. The Apex seals and corner seals are difficult to get oil to for lubrication, so Mazda decided to pump oil (very small quantites) into the intake to help seal and lubricate these corners. Without it, the engine would have metal on metal contact, and wouldn't be able to maintain reliability for long.
The 12A cars have 2 clear OMP lines that go from the pump to the car, whereas the 13B cars have 4 lines, 2 to the intake plenums for the center intake, and 2 directly on the top of the engine block which have an opening right on top of the apex seals - this was designed to help keep those tip seals well lubricated (per the 84SE FSM). HTH,
#15
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Hey Guys,
Unless you're doing any racing or seriously brutal driving, I don't see the reason for blocking it off and premixing if you can rebuild the OMP for cheap in an afternoon at home!
I rebuilt mine. It cost me like 20$, took about an hour (including 45 mins of soaking the OMP in Mineral Spirits) to rebuild one afternoon. If the stock system works, why mess with it if it's just a daily driver? Besides, if you wanna go gung-ho, you can actually get a two-stroke resivoir and OMP adapter to feed 2-stroke directly to the OMP. It takes all the guesswork out of how much 2-stroke you need, and it's alot easier to remember to fill a large resivoir at any given random time than to have to remember to fill the tank *EVERY* gas-up. Sitting there at the pump counting gallons-to-ounces ratios is a pain.. but then again, you've gotta love the looks you get from people when you're putting 2-stroke into your tank .
I dunno. I agree that premix has it's benefits, but I'd just rather rebuild the omp. It was fun, cheap and I don't have to think about my oil for another couple years (or at least until I add the 2-stroke resivoir).
Jon
Unless you're doing any racing or seriously brutal driving, I don't see the reason for blocking it off and premixing if you can rebuild the OMP for cheap in an afternoon at home!
I rebuilt mine. It cost me like 20$, took about an hour (including 45 mins of soaking the OMP in Mineral Spirits) to rebuild one afternoon. If the stock system works, why mess with it if it's just a daily driver? Besides, if you wanna go gung-ho, you can actually get a two-stroke resivoir and OMP adapter to feed 2-stroke directly to the OMP. It takes all the guesswork out of how much 2-stroke you need, and it's alot easier to remember to fill a large resivoir at any given random time than to have to remember to fill the tank *EVERY* gas-up. Sitting there at the pump counting gallons-to-ounces ratios is a pain.. but then again, you've gotta love the looks you get from people when you're putting 2-stroke into your tank .
I dunno. I agree that premix has it's benefits, but I'd just rather rebuild the omp. It was fun, cheap and I don't have to think about my oil for another couple years (or at least until I add the 2-stroke resivoir).
Jon
#16
Whack 'em and stack 'em
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,373
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From: Clarksburg/Bridgeport WV- North Central Appalachia
I'm kinda with you, vipernicus42. It is a pain with daily drivers. I think someone had converted the sub-zero start assist fluid container into a 2 cycle reservoir with an OMP adaptor. That would be the way to go. I wish I could find that thread....
#17
I'm taking the OMP off because I've heard of the benefits that are out there by doing so. Also, mine's not a daily driver, and I broke one of the OMP lines when I was removing my carburetor to send to sterling.
I'm not about to shell out the $40 for a new one, or whatever Mazdatrix wants. Can you just use some regular hose for it like washer fluid? Or do you have to use a plastic line? I'll probably keep the OMP laying around 'til I come up with some ideas for a reservoir like you guys had mentioned. Eventually I'd like to have the OMP inject MMO, but for now it's just easier to block it off and mix.
Vipernicus, did you get a rebuild kit for your OMP somewhere? If so what did it contain. Is it just some gaskets and washers or what? I'm not sure mine works and I'll probably just rebuild it when I take it off for the heck of it. Just to figure out how it works, and then it will be ready whenever I want to use it too.
I'm not about to shell out the $40 for a new one, or whatever Mazdatrix wants. Can you just use some regular hose for it like washer fluid? Or do you have to use a plastic line? I'll probably keep the OMP laying around 'til I come up with some ideas for a reservoir like you guys had mentioned. Eventually I'd like to have the OMP inject MMO, but for now it's just easier to block it off and mix.
Vipernicus, did you get a rebuild kit for your OMP somewhere? If so what did it contain. Is it just some gaskets and washers or what? I'm not sure mine works and I'll probably just rebuild it when I take it off for the heck of it. Just to figure out how it works, and then it will be ready whenever I want to use it too.
#18
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2002
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
I got the rebuild kit from lowe automotive http://www.loweperformance.com/
The price on the site is wrong, they're $20. They come with the OMP-to-block gasket, and all the rubber washer kinda things you need to re-build it.
Brownmound did his. It's a GSL-SE one, but the info and pictures are an awesome help, the OMPs are practically the same:
http://www.godofredo.com/mound/3-11-03.html
And there's a write-up at mazspeed's page here:
http://www.mazspeed.com/oilmeteringpump.htm
between those two, a drunken monkey could do it. Well, I guess I shouldn't bring the guys at rx7Heaven into this should I ?
As for using the sub-zero as a two stroke resivoir: I had heard it and looked into it. Unfortunately the clear plastic containers are aparently not good to keep oil in. Somehow it would eat through (someone on the forum said). I'd still try it anyway. The OMP adapter piece is available here:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
the price is a little steep, but definitely worth it. I'll be doing this within the next year or so. Even if the sub zero resivoir itself can't be used, it's location can! I'll have to look more into that later.
As for the lines for the OMP, just grab some off a partscar in a pick-a-part yard. Or maybe someone on the forum who'se removed it has kept their lines. Anyone? Help a fellow out?
Jon
The price on the site is wrong, they're $20. They come with the OMP-to-block gasket, and all the rubber washer kinda things you need to re-build it.
Brownmound did his. It's a GSL-SE one, but the info and pictures are an awesome help, the OMPs are practically the same:
http://www.godofredo.com/mound/3-11-03.html
And there's a write-up at mazspeed's page here:
http://www.mazspeed.com/oilmeteringpump.htm
between those two, a drunken monkey could do it. Well, I guess I shouldn't bring the guys at rx7Heaven into this should I ?
As for using the sub-zero as a two stroke resivoir: I had heard it and looked into it. Unfortunately the clear plastic containers are aparently not good to keep oil in. Somehow it would eat through (someone on the forum said). I'd still try it anyway. The OMP adapter piece is available here:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
the price is a little steep, but definitely worth it. I'll be doing this within the next year or so. Even if the sub zero resivoir itself can't be used, it's location can! I'll have to look more into that later.
As for the lines for the OMP, just grab some off a partscar in a pick-a-part yard. Or maybe someone on the forum who'se removed it has kept their lines. Anyone? Help a fellow out?
Jon
#19
Wish I could get my hands on one of those metering pump adapters for about 10 minutes. They don't look like they'd be that hard to make. The majority of the price is probably for the fabrication of the part... Even if we knew how it worked we could find another way of going about it and basically make a ghetto one. :-) How does that adapter work? Does it fit between the block and the OMP or between the OMP and the reservoir or what?
#24
plastic oil lines
for some reason, i have a feeling that the stock plastic oil lines provide less than adequate space for the oil to travel through, and they seem very brittle (and hard).. anyone want to share their thoughts on this?