OMP Removal! Drain the oil?
 

Hey guys,

Just a quick dumb question for anyone that might know. I'm getting ready to go make a blockoff plate for my OMP and then I can start running premix, but I just wanted to know if I'll need to drain the oil when I take off the OMP?

I'm pretty sure that I will but just wanted to be sure in case I don't, could save myself a little time.

Thanks in advance.

BTW: I am considering making lots of these blockoff plates if anyone might be interested in purchasing them.... let me know...

you do not need to drain the oil! it is mounted on the block, not the oil pan. have a rag handy, there will be a small amount of oil that will come out.

make sure you scrape all of the old gasket off. that sucker is prone to leaking.

Kewl! That should make the job a little quicker! I'm going to hopefully get her fixed this weekend. I'm not even sure that my OMP was functioning and if it wasn't it worries me for how long. But hopefully once the MMO starts flowing it will smooth her out and turn back the clock a little... :)

best of luck man. should help out the engine with the MMO.

I will be taking off my omp this weekend and was wondering the same thing!

If you are making plates i might be interested, how much you asking for one?

Edit: are you supposed to be able to see oil in the OPM lines? looks like they are see-through, but i have never seen any oil in them! :eek:

I will be taking off my omp this weekend and was wondering the same thing!

If you are making plates i might be interested, how much you asking for one?

Edit: are you supposed to be able to see oil in the OPM lines?

Yes.
looks like they are see-through, but i have never seen any oil in them! :eek:
They are see through. No oil in them means you OMP isn't pumping or the linkage for the OMP isn't hooked up

Is it therefore safe to say that if you can see engine oil in the lines, that the OMP is good and is pumping as designed?

I've often wondered if the oil in those lines is actually going anywhere, and knowing that it drains back through the lines when the pump goes out would be nice to know. TIA,

I see oil and a few air gaps in my lines after it's been sitting awhile. It doesn't drain back. I haven't measured the output but when looking down the carb I can see the oil drip out of the little tubes. I know it's not that easy for you 13b guys.

well my since my OMP dosent work, or leak, is there any reason for me to take it off? (other than looks)

Also, how bad is it to run without an OMP or premix? I am not sure how long my OMP has been out for. Im probably screwed, i dont really remember ever seeing anything in those lines :eek: :eek: :eek:

Re: OMP Removal! Drain the oil?
 

Too late, :p: I just blocked off my OMP with an hollowed OMP unit. But used too much JB weld. It is working nicely. No leak. And that part of the engine is particularly shiny since I cleaned it out very well when I install the hollowed unit.

Nelson

what's (are) the reason behind if the OMP doesn't seem (or look like) it's pumping oil? and can someone please post a picture of the stock FB OMP? i'd appreciate it... thanks

The OMP is mounted on the front of the front cover, below and behind the water pump, and looks like this (when it's clean!):

http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/b-engprt/b8-9.jpg

You'll notice that there is a lever arm on the OMP that attaches to your throttle shaft by a long rod. This rod moves when you apply throttle so that as you request more fuel, you also request more oil to help lubricate the internal engine seals. The Apex seals and corner seals are difficult to get oil to for lubrication, so Mazda decided to pump oil (very small quantites) into the intake to help seal and lubricate these corners. Without it, the engine would have metal on metal contact, and wouldn't be able to maintain reliability for long.

The 12A cars have 2 clear OMP lines that go from the pump to the car, whereas the 13B cars have 4 lines, 2 to the intake plenums for the center intake, and 2 directly on the top of the engine block which have an opening right on top of the apex seals - this was designed to help keep those tip seals well lubricated (per the 84SE FSM). HTH,

wowie... thanks a lot long duck! :)

Hey Guys,

Unless you're doing any racing or seriously brutal driving, I don't see the reason for blocking it off and premixing if you can rebuild the OMP for cheap in an afternoon at home!

I rebuilt mine. It cost me like 20$, took about an hour (including 45 mins of soaking the OMP in Mineral Spirits) to rebuild one afternoon. If the stock system works, why mess with it if it's just a daily driver? Besides, if you wanna go gung-ho, you can actually get a two-stroke resivoir and OMP adapter to feed 2-stroke directly to the OMP. It takes all the guesswork out of how much 2-stroke you need, and it's alot easier to remember to fill a large resivoir at any given random time than to have to remember to fill the tank *EVERY* gas-up. Sitting there at the pump counting gallons-to-ounces ratios is a pain.. but then again, you've gotta love the looks you get from people when you're putting 2-stroke into your tank :eek: .

I dunno. I agree that premix has it's benefits, but I'd just rather rebuild the omp. It was fun, cheap and I don't have to think about my oil for another couple years (or at least until I add the 2-stroke resivoir).

Jon

I'm kinda with you, vipernicus42. It is a pain with daily drivers. I think someone had converted the sub-zero start assist fluid container into a 2 cycle reservoir with an OMP adaptor. That would be the way to go. I wish I could find that thread....

I'm taking the OMP off because I've heard of the benefits that are out there by doing so. Also, mine's not a daily driver, and I broke one of the OMP lines when I was removing my carburetor to send to sterling.

I'm not about to shell out the $40 for a new one, or whatever Mazdatrix wants. Can you just use some regular hose for it like washer fluid? Or do you have to use a plastic line? I'll probably keep the OMP laying around 'til I come up with some ideas for a reservoir like you guys had mentioned. Eventually I'd like to have the OMP inject MMO, but for now it's just easier to block it off and mix.

Vipernicus, did you get a rebuild kit for your OMP somewhere? If so what did it contain. Is it just some gaskets and washers or what? I'm not sure mine works and I'll probably just rebuild it when I take it off for the heck of it. Just to figure out how it works, and then it will be ready whenever I want to use it too. :)

I got the rebuild kit from lowe automotive http://www.loweperformance.com/

The price on the site is wrong, they're $20. They come with the OMP-to-block gasket, and all the rubber washer kinda things you need to re-build it.

Brownmound did his. It's a GSL-SE one, but the info and pictures are an awesome help, the OMPs are practically the same:
http://www.godofredo.com/mound/3-11-03.html

And there's a write-up at mazspeed's page here:
http://www.mazspeed.com/oilmeteringpump.htm

between those two, a drunken monkey could do it. Well, I guess I shouldn't bring the guys at rx7Heaven into this should I ? ;)

As for using the sub-zero as a two stroke resivoir: I had heard it and looked into it. Unfortunately the clear plastic containers are aparently not good to keep oil in. Somehow it would eat through (someone on the forum said). I'd still try it anyway. The OMP adapter piece is available here:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

the price is a little steep, but definitely worth it. I'll be doing this within the next year or so. Even if the sub zero resivoir itself can't be used, it's location can! I'll have to look more into that later.

As for the lines for the OMP, just grab some off a partscar in a pick-a-part yard. Or maybe someone on the forum who'se removed it has kept their lines. Anyone? Help a fellow out? :)

Jon

Wish I could get my hands on one of those metering pump adapters for about 10 minutes. They don't look like they'd be that hard to make. The majority of the price is probably for the fabrication of the part... Even if we knew how it worked we could find another way of going about it and basically make a ghetto one. :-) How does that adapter work? Does it fit between the block and the OMP or between the OMP and the reservoir or what?

Between block and OMP. The big trick is getting the turning shafty-thingy to go through it and still be able to turn the OMP.

Jon

I thought that one of the pluses of removing the OMP is that you can begin using Synthetic engine oil, Or am i Wrong?

That's what I was wondering... If the synthetic isn't getting burnt up anymore couldn't you make the switch with no controversy at all? Anyone know for sure on this?

That's what I was wondering... If the synthetic isn't getting burnt up anymore couldn't you make the switch with no controversy at all? Anyone know for sure on this?

plastic oil lines
 

for some reason, i have a feeling that the stock plastic oil lines provide less than adequate space for the oil to travel through, and they seem very brittle (and hard).. anyone want to share their thoughts on this?

I am pretty sure that you can use synthetic without any controversy if you block off the OMP.

dO Luck- the OMP lines dont need to be very big, its not like it pumps a lot of oil.