Are these Real?
How much is he wanting for them? And how much are they normally? If they are to cheap somethings wrong, Id verify the numbers on them with ones that were actually produced by the correct company.
1800... new 3600. I just got these photos. Not sure how to compare numbers..
Call Mackin Industries and see if they will help you run the serial number on the spec stickers.
Mackin info,
http://www.mackinindustries.com/contact.html
Mackin info,
http://www.mackinindustries.com/contact.html
I have 2 sets of TE-37 and those look legit to me.
I chemically stipped the powder coat off of my 17 inch 1997 TE37 (same forging style as those shown) so I noticed many details.
Note how they have a shot peened surface visible on the barrel but with a machined lip, the backside of the spokes has been deburred with a die grinder by hand (there is a whoops visible in the pic as is normal on TE37), the inside of the barrel has lines from when it was spun.
It is somewhat unusual that they are powder coated gold instead of the anodized bronze finish, but you can special order colors from Rays Engineering.
You can tell it is powder coat by how the spokes (also shot peened) have gone smooth and shiny with the thick powder coat instead of soft and matte like the barrel and you can see how thin they powder coat on the hub mounting surface and the hubcentric portion where the anodized silver is showing through.
Wait, what I mean is.... these are totally fake. Tell me the seller so I can report him.
I chemically stipped the powder coat off of my 17 inch 1997 TE37 (same forging style as those shown) so I noticed many details.
Note how they have a shot peened surface visible on the barrel but with a machined lip, the backside of the spokes has been deburred with a die grinder by hand (there is a whoops visible in the pic as is normal on TE37), the inside of the barrel has lines from when it was spun.
It is somewhat unusual that they are powder coated gold instead of the anodized bronze finish, but you can special order colors from Rays Engineering.
You can tell it is powder coat by how the spokes (also shot peened) have gone smooth and shiny with the thick powder coat instead of soft and matte like the barrel and you can see how thin they powder coat on the hub mounting surface and the hubcentric portion where the anodized silver is showing through.
Wait, what I mean is.... these are totally fake. Tell me the seller so I can report him.
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, MN
Read this before you buy Japanese wheels:
http://wedssportwheels.com/imitations.php
So take a good look at those stickers and determine if they're real or fake.
http://wedssportwheels.com/imitations.php
So take a good look at those stickers and determine if they're real or fake.
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Read this before you buy Japanese wheels:
http://wedssportwheels.com/imitations.php
So take a good look at those stickers and determine if they're real or fake.
http://wedssportwheels.com/imitations.php
So take a good look at those stickers and determine if they're real or fake.
I have 2 sets of TE-37 and those look legit to me.
I chemically stipped the powder coat off of my 17 inch 1997 TE37 (same forging style as those shown) so I noticed many details.
Note how they have a shot peened surface visible on the barrel but with a machined lip, the backside of the spokes has been deburred with a die grinder by hand (there is a whoops visible in the pic as is normal on TE37), the inside of the barrel has lines from when it was spun.
It is somewhat unusual that they are powder coated gold instead of the anodized bronze finish, but you can special order colors from Rays Engineering.
You can tell it is powder coat by how the spokes (also shot peened) have gone smooth and shiny with the thick powder coat instead of soft and matte like the barrel and you can see how thin they powder coat on the hub mounting surface and the hubcentric portion where the anodized silver is showing through.
Wait, what I mean is.... these are totally fake. Tell me the seller so I can report him.
I chemically stipped the powder coat off of my 17 inch 1997 TE37 (same forging style as those shown) so I noticed many details.
Note how they have a shot peened surface visible on the barrel but with a machined lip, the backside of the spokes has been deburred with a die grinder by hand (there is a whoops visible in the pic as is normal on TE37), the inside of the barrel has lines from when it was spun.
It is somewhat unusual that they are powder coated gold instead of the anodized bronze finish, but you can special order colors from Rays Engineering.
You can tell it is powder coat by how the spokes (also shot peened) have gone smooth and shiny with the thick powder coat instead of soft and matte like the barrel and you can see how thin they powder coat on the hub mounting surface and the hubcentric portion where the anodized silver is showing through.
Wait, what I mean is.... these are totally fake. Tell me the seller so I can report him.
Thanks
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
They look real from what i can tell. I have a set of RE30's and they have all of those certification stickers, and even has the stamp of the inspector on the outside of the barrel in picture 2. But yes like everyone says physically check out the wheels, and maybe even ask to weigh the wheel. Also ask which vendor or where they purchased the wheels from.
looks like they could be real but what i'm not seeing is on the inner lip there is no VOLK RACING, RAYS ENG, MONOBLOCK or MADE IN JAPAN on them, but I believe that may only come on some wheels.
with the tags and stickers if these are fake someone definitely went through a lot of trouble to make them seem real
with the tags and stickers if these are fake someone definitely went through a lot of trouble to make them seem real
Last edited by gtouch; Jan 6, 2012 at 12:29 PM.
I bought them. They do come in the Original Box and have all the paperwork so.. they are real... Problem now is they are all 9.5" +35 ... I'm afraid these wont fit. At first I read somewhere they should fit with fender roll , but now I found another tread that says otherwise...
I would think that's possible. Im running 18x10+24 with 265/35 rears. With 285/35 on your 18x9.5+35 you should end up with about 7mm more clearance on the outside edge than what I have. However 285's are pretty wide for a 9.5j and the sidewalls will likely bulge and could affect fitment some.
I would think that's possible. Im running 18x10+24 with 265/35 rears. With 285/35 on your 18x9.5+35 you should end up with about 7mm more clearance on the outside edge than what I have. However 285's are pretty wide for a 9.5j and the sidewalls will likely bulge and could affect fitment some.
I would run 265/35-18 RS-3 on those if you sell them to me 
If you want more tire you will have to roll and pull your front fenders.
+50 ish offset is perfect for max tire fitment (295).
I was planning to get the 17x10 +52 6ULR and 295/30-17 XSs.
If you want more tire you will have to roll and pull your front fenders.
+50 ish offset is perfect for max tire fitment (295).
I was planning to get the 17x10 +52 6ULR and 295/30-17 XSs.
I ran 18x9.5+38 Enkei RPF1 with 285/30/18 Kumho V710's for autocross for two years with only a fender roll.
Now running 18x10+50 Forgestars with 285/30/18 Hoosier A6. Despite the same size designation the Hoosiers rub on the trailing arms on the driver side, even with aftermarket arms.
The points being:
* the wheel size should be fine
* choice of tire is important.
Now running 18x10+50 Forgestars with 285/30/18 Hoosier A6. Despite the same size designation the Hoosiers rub on the trailing arms on the driver side, even with aftermarket arms.
The points being:
* the wheel size should be fine
* choice of tire is important.
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