So here's an interesting one, maybe you guys can shed some light on the situation. Just installed my microtech and have it tuned pretty well over all. The problem I'm having is that every time I engage the clutch on deceleration my RPMs drop rapidly and dip to about ~500RPM causing it to stall. I can prevent this by using some fancy footwork while feathering the throttle a little. It idles fine at about 800RPM and if it survives the RPM dip and doesnt stall then it returns to a normal idle. The clutch disengages completely, no drag or creeping with it disengaged in gear. Perhaps the problem is related to the throttle being snapped closed so quickly on decel? Thoughts?

 

I had an Rtek with the Rpm set at 800 and it liked to bog out when coming to a stop.
The Throttle body was modified and it would snap closed,as it didn't have a dash pot to help slow the throttle down.Funny thing though when it got warm it was ok.
I was able to turn up the idle to about 1200-1300 and it helped.
Cold was like 1000 and warm was like 1200.
so,Maybe try a 30 second Throttle body screw adjustment?..(worth a try).
I am assuming that your car is modified and has no Emissions.

 

if it dips low on the over run throttle then you need to get into the handset and tune the idle maps below idle vacuums to be same as the idle vacuum

ie,, the car will idle looking at the idle maps for 15 and 20" Hg
you need to take the same fuel values and put them in the 25 and 30" tables

ie,, if 20"Hg is 1.19 ms,, make 25 and 30"Hg the same 1.19ms

 

Thanks, I like the below idle vacuum map idea. I'll get in there tomorrow with the laptop and see if that helps.

 

I'm actually having the same issue with my FC. I upped the idle to about 1100, like the above post, and when the idle does drop it doesn't stall. I figured it was a bad TPS.

I have no emissions, intake/exhaust, twin clutch, rebuild motor and PanSpeed ECU.

Sounds like ECU is the problem child, unless someone shows up with the same problem on a stock ECU.