(Copy and Pasted from source)

1984-5 13B:
Not prone to oil injection or tubular dowel leaks, although filter stand o-rings and oil cooler & lines commonly leak in the 100,000 mile range. The biggest problem is the oil cooler splitting at the input flange (small crack, parrallel to threads). The only way to properly diagnose is to remove the underpan, clean the area with brake cleaner and compressed air, pressure washer, etc., and with the engine running, see exactly where the leak is. This also applies to diagnosing any oil leak properly. Many times oil leaks are confused since fan and moving car tends to swirl oil around.


Now pretty much everything but the oilpan or underpan they're talking about is straight up alien to me.. The guy who sold me the car said if I just took off the oil pan and replaced the gasket it would solve my problems, weird because he did tell me I could seal it up with caulking or something but that sounds a little ghetto-rig to me so I'm skeptical about that..

I poured a quart of oil in a couple days after I got it.. 100 miles later (120K on odometer) I check the dipstick and its telling me its low (from between low and high) I heard these engines are designed to burn oil but am I looking to get a box of oil a month now?

 

The underpan is the metal covering that you will see when you look underneath the engine compartment.

The statement is correct that you need to clean off the engine completely including the oil cooler lines then run the engine and see where exactly the leak is coming from.

The oil cooler bungs crack because people over tighten them and also use the wrong type of sealing washer.

first things first and that is to find the leak, then take a course of action.

Once you determine the exact cause of the leak then post up and we will advise you on how to repair it.

 

I took it to a garage and they put it in the air, after a cleaning and 30 minutes later they told me it was my dowel pan o rings that were either bad/deteriorated or non-existant, and it would basically cost an engine rebuild to get it fixed ($1200-1500). You could see it when it ran clean and watch it drip from the front and rear rotors.

 

The oil cooler bungs are cracked on my cooler how do I plug the leak and what type of sealing washers do I need. can I use teflon tape on the threads?

 

If the bungs are cracked, then new bungs need to be welded on, or you have to replace the cooler. There is nothing else you can do to fix the leak that will work for more then a few minutes.

 

Ok so I found a cooler with good bungs can I get the seeling rings from the auto parts store or do I need a dealer part--------- and can I wrap the hose end with teflon tape??

 

Ok so I got the sealing washers from the dealer and Im using permatex thread sealant but do I reely need to keep the oil presure control valve would it run cooler with out it?

 

Keep the thermostat in the cooler. The crush washers are available at most auto parts store, all fastener stores, and many hardware stores.

 

don't waste money and time, have a shop weld -10 fittings straight on the cooler, make ss lines and be done with it

 

I can't seem to get any where with the shops in my town they all seem clueless as to what I need any ideas?

 

Not sure what the question is at this point.

If you have a new cooler, then there is no need to fix the old one. The crush washers are common at fastener stores, hydraulic stores and the dealer.

 

I am now ready to install an oil cooler but I don't want to crack the bungs what would the torque be on the fittings and the hoses?