Hi all.

Just took my sequential sytem off and threw a little to4r on there with kg rail 1600 injectors. the car has started but now it tends not to want to. it splutters. cleaned the plugs but still no.

I have noticed on the power fc that the boost now says .37 bar when i put the ignition on. and my injectors are still registering as 850s. do i need a special base map to get this thing running? i dont have a datalogit but do have a hand controller if someone can give me direction on what i need to do or send a map and ill find datalogit or copy pictures of the map.

arghh nearly there.i think.

much love

 

Even though you did not do your pre-install homework, the engine should be able to start and idle on any basic map. Boosting is different and you will NEED a DL to properly set up your 1600 secondary injectors.

I suggest you find an experineced FD/PFC person to help you as idle control is the start of simple basic tuning. It is totally 100% safe for plug-n-play for learning the Commander.

Did you turn O2 F/B off? Did you verify that your base fuel pressure is 38-40psi?
Are you using the ISC for idle control? Is your map sensor correctly hooked up and selected with the PFC?

 

Did you turn O2 F/B off?

Is that the error code thing? ive turned seq off but ill turn o2 off too. is that right?

Did you verify that your base fuel pressure is 38-40psi?

Cranking the engine with my new fuel pump fitted im seeing 20psi on my fpr max

Are you using the ISC for idle control?

Dont know what this is, sorry

Is your map sensor correctly hooked up and selected with the PFC?

The pfc has been fitted for years, im just using the map off that. as i say it has started but now doesnt seem to want to since i fitted my new pump. do you mean the boost sensor?

Sorry for being a bit thick on this issue

 

(1) Did you turn O2 F/B off?
Is that the error code thing? ive turned seq off but ill turn o2 off too. is that right?
(a1) that is not an error thing but a FUNCTION that allows proper idle without an air pump working.

(2) Did you verify that your base fuel pressure is 38-40psi?
Cranking the engine with my new fuel pump fitted im seeing 20psi on my fpr max
(a2) start the engine and let it idle, remove the air control hose from the fuel pump, adjust to 38-40 psi fuel pressure, reconnect control hose.

(3) Are you using the ISC for idle control? Dont know what this is, sorry
(a3) more proof that you need help and should find it.

(4) Is your map sensor correctly hooked up and selected with the PFC?
The pfc has been fitted for years, im just using the map off that. as i say it has started but now doesnt seem to want to since i fitted my new pump. do you mean the boost sensor?
(a4) the boost sensor is officailly called the map sensor as it also measures vacuum and controlls the vacuum/boost rows on the maps to be used.

 

Ok been fiddling today and heres the score.

1) the car was mapped with the air pump removed. so should be ok

2) the base fuel pressure is now 40psi and hooray the car starts. the adjustmnent screw was missing.

3) The idle screw on the throttle body has been adjusted and is idling fine. is that what isc is?

4) boost sensor is ok. the car just wasnt starting because of poor fuel pressure.

problem now is when i switch it off it wont start again im putting this down to it being flooded. ignition on its still saying .3 bar on the pfc commander so its running rich thinking theres boost or less vacuum?

Also where do you wire the positive and negative terminals to on the boost controller. these are the only problems i seem to have.

 

just take it to a tuner

 

Will do when im ready

 

i suppose you could write that reply to any query or question on this forum lmao

 

Well i am not sure if you have dont this in the past, but to prevent flooding (i had this problem after rebuilding many motors) you rev it to about 3 to 4k and then turn off the key. After they key is off you put the pedal to the floor allowing it to push all of the exhaust gases out of the "cylinders" to stop this.

And also the boost controller terminals should go to a switched 12v source from the interior like ignition and the other one should be grounded.

 

you can reduce cranking pulsewidth to prevent flooding as well.

 

Hi guys car is running much better now, i have a map, a datalogit, a wideband and the map on but no laptop yet. car runs great to 40% cycle duty, but my resistors stop the secondaries working so im going lean in that transition area.

The map i have did not have resisitors and it look sliek this, i know i need to change it, but what kind of adjustments should i make, bearing in mind, i have 12 ohm 12 watt resistors.?

front pri 100 000
front sec 000 .25
rear pri 100 000
rear sec 000 .25

pri/sec transition 35%
sec transition (m/sec)0.500

q primary 550
q sec 1680

 

If you insist on going any further with tuning your PFC with the datalogit. I suggest you PM chuck (cewrx7r1) and purchase his notes. You will not regret it.

 

Is that the tuning a single turbo rx7 doc? Or a different one?

I have that. ive read it three times and its stating to sink in now.
i read the datalogit manual yesterday,



BTW i set my injector lag to .4 then .6 .8 and the problem does not go away.

Im just going to try my earths on the car see if that helps as ive just put my battery in the boot.

 

No its not a single turbo doc. Its a whole package of notes, tools, and great advice. PM him for the details.

 

many thanks ill do that now

 

Update: Im installing a new engine harness as mine has bad connections to the crank sensors. I think/ hope this will cure my 4000 rpm stuttering problem.

May get different resistors but i need some guidance on this