I have a s4 rear iron that has a hairline crack in the dowel pin area(leaks oil), i was wondering if any one has atempted to repair this. i have searched and found nothing on the topic, everyone just says replace it with a s5 iron. i was planing on having it magnafluxed and drill stoped then tig welded, im also planing to use oversized studs. any recomendations?

thanks
-joe

 

Yes, it could be repaired by a competent welder but by the time it's welded and machined, then renitrided it's going to cost a lot more then just replacing the iron.

Do you know what caused the crack? Cracking an iron generally requires massive detonation that is caused by an ignition misfire.

 

why would it have the be renitrided? its a hairline crack on the very top of the dowel pin area. when welded the heat from the tig wouldnt even make it a quarter of the dowel dia, i can see if it was completely broken(probley what ur talking about ) it got cracked because a eletronic boost controller failed(detonated). i bought it like this

btw i got it fixed at work today, i maged it, drill stoped it, ground a v chanel and had it tiged. i pressure checked it and it didnt leak, but ill know as soo as the motors is back togeather if i use it, theres another on ebay farly cheap 100 shipped i think 4 days left lol

thank you for the reply

-joe

 

I had assumed it would warp during welding, necessitating machining, after which some people are crazy enough to re-nitride the plate. Though very few people re-nitride after lapping.

 

Trash it and get another ( NOT CRACKED) Side plate. I you need one LMK, I have plenty and they are cheap $100.00 plus shipping and paypal fee.. For under $125.00 I can have it at your door.

These can be repaired yet once all the machine work and weld work is considered, it easier/cheaper and less of a hassle to simply replace it...plus if you repair it and it fails again, you just wasted a boat load of money and time.. Not worth it unless its an Iron that is not easily/cheap enough to simply replace..