FC3S -

This was supposed to be a simple SS Brake Lines replacement . . . .

Upgraded to Stainless Steel Brake lines.
SS Brake lines.

Found out that the rear driver side caliper needed rebuild due to leaks.
Replaced. - Both rear calipers.

Found out that the Master Cylinder crapped out during the process.
Replaced.

Now . . .
Both front calipers' bleeder screw seized and snapped.
About 2 year old rebuilt. Have been bled before with np.

- How often does this happen? Anyone experienced this and what's the solution?
- Cause of seize?
- What's next? New calipers?

Bled using the lines before the hose. (Had no choice..)

What'r the effects?

Right now the pedal goes halfway and the car stops there, but it feels spongy and as if the brakes are going bad . . .

This needs to be fixed.

Thanks.












Returned the Gold one. Cost $30 more. (Must be the stupid paint..)

 

dissimilar metals cause corrosion and oxidation when they are joined. in your case the steel from the bleeder screw and the aluminum from the caliper formed a bond when the bleeder was locked down. i always grease the bleeder before reinstallation. i would just replace the calipers. i got mine for my 88 TII from advance auto parts for under $60 each

 

What brand are those brake lines? Just curious...

And when I went to take of my rear calipers, both of them had rounded off bolts. So, I somewhat understand what boat you are in because how much it took to take them off. It's just hard when the pieces are so old, I can't say how many parts I've had trouble with on my GXL.

 

man you had some bad luck with it... =(
when i did my brake swap, stripped the drivers front hardline, had to make a whole new hardline from mc to the brake line, then fab some hardlines for the front calipers, and stripped drivers rear hardline nut *brake line wrench still stripped it* so i have to use a vise on it =(

If i could do it all again, i would have ordered NA brake lines

 

Are those Corksport SS lines?

 

Try a left hand drill bit and flush the caliper out if you remove the broken bleeder.

 

They look identical to the Red SS Corksport lines I bought a while ago, here they are as pictured in my buildup thread.

 

haha... sounds like the exact same problem i had...

 

Everything was replaced including the hard lines by the calipers.
For the first time close to a decade of ownership, the brake system fluid has been fully vacuumed out !!! wow. and topped off with fresh fluids.

The hard line by the calipers also crapped out while bleeding.
Had to fab the new lines in the shop. cool little gadgets.

Reusing old pads and rotors.
All new dimpled/slotted zinc plated rotors and ebc pads soon.

Right now with the used parts, the brakes are very solid and very strong.
Like new car.

 

Good god. No wonder they froze. Look how much rust there is on the pistons!

+1 on the left handed drill. If that doesn't work, then use some kind of screw out system in the hole you just drilled. Lots of PB Blaster too.


So you made new hard lines? Or bought pre-formed/bent ones? How much did that run? I need to do this.

 

hahaha.


New hard lines were made in the shop. tools were available. didn't cost me a thing. it's my cousin's shop.

 

Where is that shop? Redbank?

 

Nah, NorthJersey.

 

glad you got the car back on the road! where did you end up getting the calipers from?

 

Montclair NJ parts store.
$60ea. Good stuff

Waiting to burn my pads/rotors. Going to get the dimpled/slotted zinc coated rotors