Hard starting sounds like its on 1 rotor
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: NY
Hard starting sounds like its on 1 rotor
When cold, or whenever it feels like it it will have serious trouble starting, Total flooding, it Pops and backfires making me think its an ignition issue and then when I finally get it to start it will pop and backfire really bad under 1500 rpm, I need to hold gas to keep it running, it will clear up and sound normal and drive great 
what the hells going on!
what the hells going on!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 409
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From: Washington
I had this issue last night, I'm not saying this is your issue, it may be more serious, but here's what happened.
So my friend and I just got done putting a new clutch in, and I tried to start it but the battery was dead so we kept on having to jump it, but it would randomly flood. We actually had to pull it behind a jeep to get it to start finally.
Anyway once it started, I had to give it shitloads of fuel to stay alive my tach stopped working so I don' t know what rev range but it sucked. When I got home and let it sit overnight, I pulled off the coils (both leading and trailing) and the plug wires, checked to make sure all the leads were cleaned of gunk on the coil plugs and plug wires, then plugged everything back in, nice and firm. She was sputtery for about 30 seconds but after 10 minutes of aggressive driving (after building oil pressure) all the problems were worked out. She was sitting for a few weeks and I think it was sitting flooded too, but everything's all good now.
So my friend and I just got done putting a new clutch in, and I tried to start it but the battery was dead so we kept on having to jump it, but it would randomly flood. We actually had to pull it behind a jeep to get it to start finally.
Anyway once it started, I had to give it shitloads of fuel to stay alive my tach stopped working so I don' t know what rev range but it sucked. When I got home and let it sit overnight, I pulled off the coils (both leading and trailing) and the plug wires, checked to make sure all the leads were cleaned of gunk on the coil plugs and plug wires, then plugged everything back in, nice and firm. She was sputtery for about 30 seconds but after 10 minutes of aggressive driving (after building oil pressure) all the problems were worked out. She was sitting for a few weeks and I think it was sitting flooded too, but everything's all good now.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 310
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From: NY
Yeah, I just changed my plugs, it happend after that I think I wonder if I did something wrong. I know 1 is by the bumper and 2 the firewall, I have NO driveability issues once it gets over its stupid start, sometimes it just starts up and seems ready to go, Could it be possible I got a bad plug?
Thanks
I wonder if I did something wrong. I know 1 is by the bumper and 2 the firewall, I have NO driveability issues once it gets over its stupid start, sometimes it just starts up and seems ready to go, Could it be possible I got a bad plug?Thanks
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 409
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From: Washington
Well, it can run if the trailing plugs aren't hooked up correctly, but it won't be super happy with you.
The rotor towards the front of the car is rotor 1, the one towards the rear is rotor 2.
Leading plugs are on the bottom, trailing on top
so if you look at the side of the engine from the drivers side, this is what it'll look like:
The leading coils are marked L1 and L2, likewise, the trailing coils are marked T1 and T2. Just trace the plug wires and you'll be good to go.
The rotor towards the front of the car is rotor 1, the one towards the rear is rotor 2.
Leading plugs are on the bottom, trailing on top
so if you look at the side of the engine from the drivers side, this is what it'll look like:
Code:
/------------------------\ | | | T1 T2 | | | | L1 L2 | | | \------------------------/
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